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Viking Shocks, Settings?

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Old 10-03-2015, 05:18 PM
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Well 2 & 8 were terrible! I ended up setting them almost where I had them at before, C=5, R=7 & that seemed to work. 60s weren't any better but it rained & only got 2 full passes in.
Old 10-05-2015, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by flintwrench69
Wow, that compression is set pretty high! How did the r c2 r6 treat ya?
They say c3r6 is almost exactly like a bilstien shock. However I obviously have a softer spring. My impression was the ride was soft and compliant but would bottom out if not careful. It rode really similar to bilstiens, as expected.
Old 10-05-2015, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Basically for me, an auto on a radial tire I'm gonna try f c15 r0 and R c14 r 7. This rear setting is obviously very different from viking recommendation. Both Midwest and some others have recommended I need more compression control with the radial. At first I had it r c2 r6 based on viking paperwork.
I'm going to adjust mine tonight to the settings you have above and try them out tomorrow.
Old 10-05-2015, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
They say c3r6 is almost exactly like a bilstien shock. However I obviously have a softer spring. My impression was the ride was soft and compliant but would bottom out if not careful. It rode really similar to bilstiens, as expected.
You may need to reread without wishful thinking. They said with those settings on the warrior shocks that the dampening rate was similar, but the curves were different, which will lead to different feel and performance.
Old 10-05-2015, 07:10 PM
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Hey JD.

Can you forward me the damping curves for Koni's et al?

ramey@umiperformance.com

Thx

-- Ramey

Originally Posted by JD_AMG
You may need to reread without wishful thinking. They said with those settings on the warrior shocks that the dampening rate was similar, but the curves were different, which will lead to different feel and performance.
Old 10-05-2015, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by UMI Tech
Hey JD.

Can you forward me the damping curves for Koni's et al?

ramey@umiperformance.com

Thx

-- Ramey
Sure, If I can find any of the paperwork. Has been probably 10 years since I bought them.
Old 10-06-2015, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JD_AMG
You may need to reread without wishful thinking. They said with those settings on the warrior shocks that the dampening rate was similar, but the curves were different, which will lead to different feel and performance.
What was stated was, at c3r7 the shock was closest to a bilstien hd, as compared on a shock dyno. Admittedly, I don't really know a ton about shocks, and shock dynos. What I noticed was at c2r6 the car rode very similar to the bilstiens I took off. For someone who didn't have bilstiens to take off this may be very relevant information, as lots of people are simply looking for a starting point to try out. At the end of the day I'm not really looking for a compliant ride. 10 months into the year and I've probably only driven my car 250 miles this year.
Old 10-06-2015, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
What was stated was, at c3r7 the shock was closest to a bilstien hd, as compared on a shock dyno. Admittedly, I don't really know a ton about shocks, and shock dynos. What I noticed was at c2r6 the car rode very similar to the bilstiens I took off. For someone who didn't have bilstiens to take off this may be very relevant information, as lots of people are simply looking for a starting point to try out. At the end of the day I'm not really looking for a compliant ride. 10 months into the year and I've probably only driven my car 250 miles this year.
I pulled Bilsteins off the rear that had under 30k on them. The c2 r8 didn't prevent the excessive squatting my car has been experiencing since I installed this 416 LS3. 4c 8r was better, 5c 7r seems to work ok. My 60s are 1.5s no matter how hard I leave. Would like to get 1.4s out of it. At least the wheelhop is gone & it's consistent on the street as it is at the track. I just wonder what effect increasing the rebound setting will have?
Old 10-07-2015, 08:17 AM
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So going from c2 r8 to c5 r7 helped to keep the rear from squatting?
Old 10-07-2015, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
So going from c2 r8 to c5 r7 helped to keep the rear from squatting?
Stiffening the rebound and compression up will definitely help keep the car from squatting.
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Old 10-08-2015, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
So going from c2 r8 to c5 r7 helped to keep the rear from squatting?
Yes, & that's the reason I bought the shocks & they work great!
Old 10-08-2015, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by flintwrench69
Yes, & that's the reason I bought the shocks & they work great!
I really don't think a lot of people realize how important it is to have adjustable shocks for drag racing. They really make a huge difference as far as traction and consistency goes.
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Old 10-08-2015, 11:09 AM
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Seems like the Viking recommended setting are way off for drag racing from what I have found. M6 418ci, LS3, with hooiser slicks, we have the shocks setup 13C and 8R. This was at a poorly prepped tracked.
Old 10-08-2015, 11:36 AM
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You have to keep in mind shock settings are going to vary from vehicle to vehicle, tire to tire, track to track, temp to temp. It is not unheard of to change shock settings every time you go to the track.

Having starting points is great but no way can someone be dead accurate on settings, the only thing that will tell you the proper settings is making test hits over and over again.

This is why we give suggestions and then ask our customers to give us good video and we can give better advice from there.
Old 10-12-2015, 07:40 AM
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Ok, now lets talk street settings for cruising.

After a 3 hour drive and bouncing around like jeep, I'm thinking I may need to go back to the Koni's.

Front 350# springs and Stock Rear Springs - How do I keep this things from riding like a bucking bronco or the ricer bounce?

I want to hear from those that don't just drag race.
Old 10-12-2015, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Basically for me, an auto on a radial tire I'm gonna try f c15 r0 and R c14 r 7. This rear setting is obviously very different from viking recommendation. Both Midwest and some others have recommended I need more compression control with the radial. At first I had it r c2 r6 based on viking paperwork.
Those settings right there are money on my setup. I adjusted them to those settings yesterday, and this morning, the car is an animal. It's hooking like crazy, I can feel the front end lifting a ton, and I'm pretty sure the rear is not squatting. I'm leaving them there for the foreseeable future.
Old 10-12-2015, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by No Juice
Ok, now lets talk street settings for cruising.

After a 3 hour drive and bouncing around like jeep, I'm thinking I may need to go back to the Koni's.

Front 350# springs and Stock Rear Springs - How do I keep this things from riding like a bucking bronco or the ricer bounce?

I want to hear from those that don't just drag race.
For cruising I would try 3C/6R. This setting is similar to Bilsteins we dyno'd. The shape of the curve is different but the general damping is in the ball park.

ramey
Old 10-12-2015, 07:52 AM
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^^Ramey - is that fronts or rears?
Old 10-12-2015, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by No Juice
^^Ramey - is that fronts or rears?
We dyno'd fronts.

We use 3/6 as a general setting but if you wanted to follow the general front/rear split you could go 2/4 out back.
Old 10-12-2015, 10:02 AM
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If you have stiffer springs would you recommend more compression, rebound or both?


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