Viking Shocks, Settings?
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I have a 2000 Z28 and I am replacing my worn out OEM shocks with Viking DA shocks that are set up for drag racing. What is a good setting to run on them? I am running a 255/50/16 Mickey Thompson ET Street right now for a tire and I have UMI lower control arms. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Each car is different. Transmission, gears, etc. We all know stick cars launch differently than automatic cars. I recommend calling Midwest chassis to get a starting setting.
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Thanks for the quick response, I should have included that my car is auto with a 4200 circle d stall, and a 125 shot of nitrous, but I will give them a call still for a base setting thank you Tuskyz28
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I have a 2000 Z28 and I am replacing my worn out OEM shocks with Viking DA shocks that are set up for drag racing. What is a good setting to run on them? I am running a 255/50/16 Mickey Thompson ET Street right now for a tire and I have UMI lower control arms. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I can help you with your settings.
For drag racing you want EZ-up in the front and tie down in the rear.
It always takes some test and tune but you could get started with 8C/2R up front and the opposite in back 2C/8R. Then evaluate the launch and let us know how they're working.
There are a ton of variables but those numbers should get you relatively close.
We dyno tested Viking Warriors against Bilstein HD and found 3C6R to be similar in damping rate even though the shapes of the curves are different. It's just a general indication to get a reasonable street setting.
ramey
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I have a 2000 Z28 and I am replacing my worn out OEM shocks with Viking DA shocks that are set up for drag racing. What is a good setting to run on them? I am running a 255/50/16 Mickey Thompson ET Street right now for a tire and I have UMI lower control arms. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I'm just running the Viking rear shocks & lowering springs, Stock Bilsteins up front. I set mine a lil high, C=5, R=6 & I cut 1.5 60s all day. Definitely prevented the ridiculous sqatting & wheelhop I was getting before I had the Vikings. I feel with my power level (485 whp) I should be cutting 1.4s. I am gonna dial em down some see what that does & 6k+ clutch dumps. Maybe C=3, R=5 see what happens. Back to the track this weekend!
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Can we discuss the differences between manual and auto, and bias ply vs radial. Meaning how would setting recommendations change based on those factors? Do radials like more or less of something etc...
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Rise of the Phoenix,
I looked at your post originally to try and figure out the settings on the DA shocks for the rear, I ended up calling Viking Performance, and they said to start with 2C/8R
I looked at your post originally to try and figure out the settings on the DA shocks for the rear, I ended up calling Viking Performance, and they said to start with 2C/8R
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Ive gotten conflicting info from Midwest chassis and some local street racers. Not saying viking doesnt know their own shock but im gonna try the advice from people who actually race these model cars.
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01RedssA4
So what settings is MWC using for the rear? Also I am starting to test mine out and I changed the rebound to 7 last night, it was at 8, seemed to hook a little better.
So what settings is MWC using for the rear? Also I am starting to test mine out and I changed the rebound to 7 last night, it was at 8, seemed to hook a little better.
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Basically for me, an auto on a radial tire I'm gonna try f c15 r0 and R c14 r 7. This rear setting is obviously very different from viking recommendation. Both Midwest and some others have recommended I need more compression control with the radial. At first I had it r c2 r6 based on viking paperwork.
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Basically for me, an auto on a radial tire I'm gonna try f c15 r0 and R c14 r 7. This rear setting is obviously very different from viking recommendation. Both Midwest and some others have recommended I need more compression control with the radial. At first I had it r c2 r6 based on viking paperwork.