Vikings w/UMI Lower A-arms
11-12-2015, 06:47 PM
#21
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I have added over 1/2" worth of washers already
Yes the car is aligned. I need to be able to place the car on a hoist or jack stands and let the suspension hang without damaging the adjusters.
The evidence is in the photos above. They clearly show the bar resting on the adjuster ****.
And no you can't turn the shocks around since the adjusters will then hit the shock mount perch on the back side. So yeah its kind of an issue!
But hey thanks
Is the car aligned? If not the control arm could not be in the right position in the slotted parts of the k member causing it to do this if you follow what I'm saying. The further out bound the a arm is the more it will put an angle on the end link causing it to touch. On another note however, are you planning on jumping the car because I highly doubt you'll ever get that much suspension travel unless you're planning on jumping it. (Seriously) let the suspension compress and it'll be a mile from that ****.
The pictures here are all full droop which is when the bar would get closest to the shock's ****, and they still aren't close and I've seen no evidence that they've touched.
The control arm mounts the sway bar in the same place as stock. The bar mounts in the same place as stock. What's different here is there is a shock that has a **** that is decidedly not stock. BUT remember the car has a swaybar stock, that mounts in the same place. Mind you the stock bar is smaller in diameter which buys you 5mm overall diameter or 2.5mm per side. But again, there is is the simple fact the bar is above the shock *****.
This really is a lot to do about nothing. And in the end, just turn the shock around if you are really worried about it.
The control arm mounts the sway bar in the same place as stock. The bar mounts in the same place as stock. What's different here is there is a shock that has a **** that is decidedly not stock. BUT remember the car has a swaybar stock, that mounts in the same place. Mind you the stock bar is smaller in diameter which buys you 5mm overall diameter or 2.5mm per side. But again, there is is the simple fact the bar is above the shock *****.
This really is a lot to do about nothing. And in the end, just turn the shock around if you are really worried about it.
And no you can't turn the shocks around since the adjusters will then hit the shock mount perch on the back side. So yeah its kind of an issue!
But hey thanks
12-13-2015, 07:46 PM
#22
No Juice,
Were you able to find a fix for this? I was planning on running the exact same parts you are running now viking coil overs, 35mm Strano, with UMI lower a-arms, but not if this an issue for this exact combination.
Were you able to find a fix for this? I was planning on running the exact same parts you are running now viking coil overs, 35mm Strano, with UMI lower a-arms, but not if this an issue for this exact combination.
12-14-2015, 08:10 AM
#25
The end link in my opinion still looks short. I think a longer end link set would cure this. Below is what would come with a UMI bar which should be a very similar pattern to the Strano bar:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-19-409-bl
Just a thought by looking at the pictures.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-19-409-bl
Just a thought by looking at the pictures.
12-14-2015, 08:14 AM
#26
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I'm going to start by going back to stock alignment specs. Right now we only put a degree of camber into it. May need to fudge a few other things to make it work. However, I know for a fact that the sway bar is not bent symmetrically side to side, so that's not helping either. If that doesn't work, I'll have to try a new bar.
12-15-2015, 02:54 PM
#27
Ok let's try this once more.
You are running shocks that have things that stick out into a location that no other shock sticks things out into. That said, I have never, EVER had anyone else say this was a problem. And frankly it shouldn't be any issue what-so-ever given the proximity of the ***** to the bottom of the shock. I don't know what is happening here unless somehow you ended up using a rear endlink (much shorter) on the front of the car.
Now we all agree that a longer front link would solve the issue, simply and easily. Just get a longer link. Get one 2" longer than what I supplied if you want to make a ton of room, and that will solve the issue as it will move the bar up relative to the control arm and bottom of the shock.
Mind you I still can't figure out why you just don't turn the shock around and have the ***** point inward, seems that is another very simple remedy to the problem that only seems to exist here.
This is the first I'm reading of more negative camber. The bar is only so wide, and the more you put the arms out (either via a k-member or lengthening the shank length of the arms) the more you push the bottom of the shock and the adjust that sticks out, closer to the endlink. That won't change no matter who's bar is in there.
As for the bar and it's symmetry. All the bars go in a jig, there is only one jig. And again, nobody else is having any issue let alone this issue, and I know there are others with my bar and Vikings or QA1's on their cars.
You are running shocks that have things that stick out into a location that no other shock sticks things out into. That said, I have never, EVER had anyone else say this was a problem. And frankly it shouldn't be any issue what-so-ever given the proximity of the ***** to the bottom of the shock. I don't know what is happening here unless somehow you ended up using a rear endlink (much shorter) on the front of the car.
Now we all agree that a longer front link would solve the issue, simply and easily. Just get a longer link. Get one 2" longer than what I supplied if you want to make a ton of room, and that will solve the issue as it will move the bar up relative to the control arm and bottom of the shock.
Mind you I still can't figure out why you just don't turn the shock around and have the ***** point inward, seems that is another very simple remedy to the problem that only seems to exist here.
This is the first I'm reading of more negative camber. The bar is only so wide, and the more you put the arms out (either via a k-member or lengthening the shank length of the arms) the more you push the bottom of the shock and the adjust that sticks out, closer to the endlink. That won't change no matter who's bar is in there.
As for the bar and it's symmetry. All the bars go in a jig, there is only one jig. And again, nobody else is having any issue let alone this issue, and I know there are others with my bar and Vikings or QA1's on their cars.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
12-16-2015, 09:44 AM
#28
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You are running shocks that have things that stick out into a location that no other shock sticks things out into. That said, I have never, EVER had anyone else say this was a problem. And frankly it shouldn't be any issue what-so-ever given the proximity of the ***** to the bottom of the shock. I don't know what is happening here unless somehow you ended up using a rear endlink (much shorter) on the front of the car.
Now we all agree that a longer front link would solve the issue, simply and easily. Just get a longer link. Get one 2" longer than what I supplied if you want to make a ton of room, and that will solve the issue as it will move the bar up relative to the control arm and bottom of the shock.
This is the first I'm reading of more negative camber. The bar is only so wide, and the more you put the arms out (either via a k-member or lengthening the shank length of the arms) the more you push the bottom of the shock and the adjust that sticks out, closer to the endlink. That won't change no matter who's bar is in there.
When I talked to you, you told me that you didn't know of anyone else with this combo and that you couldn't plan for every combo out there, fine I understand that, but now all of a sudden you know there are others.
I tried to keep this to phone calls or PM's and simply asked if there was a possibility that the front bar "might" have had the same issues as the rear bar from Helwig. You got all butt hurt and defensive because someone questioned your "quality control". Just admit you have none, the ******* bars got shipped directly from Helwig. There is a 10 degree difference in how the bar is bent at the ends where the links mount to, hence why I made the phone call.
I haven't even contacted you since then. I'm eliminating all other possibilities as to the cause of the issue, as YOU suggested ! If at that point, there is still a clearance issue, then I guess its on me to buy another bar, but we won't know until spring.
