Pro Fab Tubular K-member is in!
06-14-2004, 11:12 PM
#41
SSonyoursix, I am awar of the things you are talking about but you are making it seem harder than it is an of course it is always better to let an experienced person or pro do it but it does cost money and that is a touchy area to a lot of these guys ETC... So I am aware of all the things that can happen when working cars. But like you said the K-members are nice when it comes to working on these cars and I've been using those poly mounts with great success on keeping people's Y pipes from banging ETC... The motor mounts are another reason I bought the BMR and I know they are a little more but they have been working for me. They are great for D/drivers. SSonyoursix go get $5 and head to the car wash that car is filthy! You could problably shave another .02 off your ET with the weight savings from getting rid of all that dirt LOL! Just a joke, but you did give very good clear pics so I had to mention it.
06-15-2004, 12:11 AM
#42
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Originally Posted by chino_man279
Which bolts need to be replaced with longer ones? I assume a standard grade 5 bolt will not do? I placed an order for one yesterday, but have not heard back from Pro Fab. Can't wait to get it in and the motor running again.
Joe
Joe
06-15-2004, 12:15 AM
#43
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Originally Posted by v8maro
Could you detail / list your own steps for doing it?
So this is direct bolt-in?
-Steve
So this is direct bolt-in?
-Steve
Far as the write up the one on BMRs site is the best way for beginners because it is step by step the whole way!
06-15-2004, 12:22 AM
#44
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Originally Posted by Inspector12
SSonyoursix, I am awar of the things you are talking about but you are making it seem harder than it is an of course it is always better to let an experienced person or pro do it but it does cost money and that is a touchy area to a lot of these guys ETC... So I am aware of all the things that can happen when working cars. But like you said the K-members are nice when it comes to working on these cars and I've been using those poly mounts with great success on keeping people's Y pipes from banging ETC... The motor mounts are another reason I bought the BMR and I know they are a little more but they have been working for me. They are great for D/drivers. SSonyoursix go get $5 and head to the car wash that car is filthy! You could problably shave another .02 off your ET with the weight savings from getting rid of all that dirt LOL! Just a joke, but you did give very good clear pics so I had to mention it.
Far as the install, im just trying to save the guys that have attempted intakes and headers by themselves, but never really torn down suspension stuff before... Ive recieved MANY phonecalls at midnight begging for help from guys that are pretty good with cars, but either lack the correct tools, or broke a part that now needs a tool, or didnt know they needed something else...
Example - The engine mounts... not all people own a die grinder or air hammer to get the rivets out, nor a drill with a bit capable of cutting through steel like that, let alone 10 times to get the holes drilled out! Then the rubber scraping, again needs either a torch or a die grinder... When it comes to the A-Arms, a large pry-bar is helpful to move stuck arms out of place, especially like mine that had 75,000 miles on them! Some also dont have a pitman arm separater for the steering arms and using a hammer can smash the threads on top and make it not possible to thread a bolt on there...
What im getting at is the half *** methods using the incorrect tools, or rigging parts can lead to some HUGE issues with the car... you are dealing with important things like the steering assembly, brake lines, engine mounts and engine position etc... all it takes is one wrong move to snap a brake line, or rip a wire harness out, or damage the steering assembly etc...
The job isnt hard by any means, but it DOES take experience to do a job like this, as well as more than your $99 craftsman tool kit... specialty tools REALLY help in a job like this!
06-15-2004, 12:24 AM
#45
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Oh, and on a side note... DO the poly mounts! World of difference and even with my G5X3 cam the car doesnt vibrate at all!
In addition please keep in mind the car will need to be aligned when you finish the K-member install, and if you are not within a mile or two of an alignment shop then you will basically have to set the castor/camber, and toe by yourself... doing this incorrectly could make the car dangerous to drive!
In addition please keep in mind the car will need to be aligned when you finish the K-member install, and if you are not within a mile or two of an alignment shop then you will basically have to set the castor/camber, and toe by yourself... doing this incorrectly could make the car dangerous to drive!
06-15-2004, 01:27 PM
#46
Originally Posted by Inspector12
I've installed quite a few BMR's and I don't know what you are talking about qith fitment cause all of mine went in like the factory K-member with no issues? I even installed one on a car that had been wrecked bad and it still went in with out to much trouble? The BMR had the motor mounts welded in place and they lined up perfect for me? Of course I am sure everyone has there opinion and this is just been my experience with the BMR never had anyone want any other type around here. I have installed them a few different ways but I have done it just like BLT FED with the exception I used a floor jack under the oil pan with a 2x12 under it and I have used the engine hoist too. They all work and I know you said not to leave this to the weekend warriors but Black Beasst did it and if he can any one can with a little time JMO? Good luck to everyone installing K-members and if you need them installed in the Houston area let me know I can do it or anything else for that matter. Seeya!!!!!!!
06-15-2004, 07:04 PM
#47
SSonyoursix I just think you are being to careful about information. Sorta like there is some secret trick to the install or something. It is not that hard and I bet I could do it with one of those $99 craftsman tool sets along with a hamer, floor jack and a couple of jack stands. The alignment issue is not hard at all I always set mine up right in the middle and they are not that far off every time? So that is all I am saying. It sounds like to me you must be around a lot of people that do not know much I guess that is not the case with me. Oh and about that issues with the tie rod ends I never even take them off if that is all I am changing. You also said you saved money on your K-member but if you don't want to use the stock (Cast Iron) motor mounts then you have to BUY them from someone like Spohn ($145.00) ETC... which adds to the cost if you want the weight savings. That is how I justify the extra money for the BMR and not having to chase down bolts and nuts. JMO. And everyone has one of them. See you later guys.
06-16-2004, 08:00 AM
#48
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What did you guys do with your brake line routing. I was thinking about making up some brackets, and using some adells off of the rack. My main concern was out by the wheels. Mine is an lt1, so it might be a little different.
06-16-2004, 01:03 PM
#50
I did the same (Tie wraps) I am planning on drilling an tapping som bolt holes for clams though I just haven't done this yet. I am not sure whitch K-member you used but I was able to use the factory bracket right by the wheels that is secured by a 10mm bolt. Hope this helps.
06-21-2004, 09:05 AM
#52
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Originally Posted by chino_man279
Which bolts need to be replaced with longer ones? I assume a standard grade 5 bolt will not do? I placed an order for one yesterday, but have not heard back from Pro Fab. Can't wait to get it in and the motor running again.
Joe
Joe
Any word on what size bolts are used?
John
06-21-2004, 05:09 PM
#53
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actually, it's shorter bolts you need.. lemme find it again...
12mm x 1.75, 40 or 45 mm , can't remember which length. you need 4 of 'em... the rear two bolts you can re-use.
www.boltdepot.com
12mm x 1.75, 40 or 45 mm , can't remember which length. you need 4 of 'em... the rear two bolts you can re-use.
www.boltdepot.com
06-21-2004, 07:12 PM
#54
I think SSonyoursix is being fair. If you have all the right tools and a lift or the proper lifting equipment, this job probably isn't bad at all. But if you live in an appartment, car carry all your tools in a milk crate and your only source of lifting your car is the factory jack, then this is a definite no-no for the do-it-yourselfer.
Another example is, if you can't change your own plugs in less than an hour, don't try this.
Another example is, if you can't change your own plugs in less than an hour, don't try this.
06-21-2004, 07:56 PM
#55
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Originally Posted by angst911
actually, it's shorter bolts you need.. lemme find it again...
12mm x 1.75, 40 or 45 mm , can't remember which length. you need 4 of 'em... the rear two bolts you can re-use.
www.boltdepot.com
12mm x 1.75, 40 or 45 mm , can't remember which length. you need 4 of 'em... the rear two bolts you can re-use.
www.boltdepot.com
Thanks
06-22-2004, 02:53 AM
#56
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Originally Posted by Inspector12
SSonyoursix I just think you are being to careful about information. Sorta like there is some secret trick to the install or something. It is not that hard and I bet I could do it with one of those $99 craftsman tool sets along with a hamer, floor jack and a couple of jack stands. The alignment issue is not hard at all I always set mine up right in the middle and they are not that far off every time? So that is all I am saying. It sounds like to me you must be around a lot of people that do not know much I guess that is not the case with me. Oh and about that issues with the tie rod ends I never even take them off if that is all I am changing. You also said you saved money on your K-member but if you don't want to use the stock (Cast Iron) motor mounts then you have to BUY them from someone like Spohn ($145.00) ETC... which adds to the cost if you want the weight savings. That is how I justify the extra money for the BMR and not having to chase down bolts and nuts. JMO. And everyone has one of them. See you later guys.
06-22-2004, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I think SSonyoursix is being fair. If you have all the right tools and a lift or the proper lifting equipment, this job probably isn't bad at all. But if you live in an appartment, car carry all your tools in a milk crate and your only source of lifting your car is the factory jack, then this is a definite no-no for the do-it-yourselfer.
Another example is, if you can't change your own plugs in less than an hour, don't try this.
Another example is, if you can't change your own plugs in less than an hour, don't try this.
Im not discouraging do-it-yourselfers... however this isnt an air filter change or an intake manifold swap... large amounts of dammage can occur if this is done wrong, and once you are halfway done, theres no turning back, and imagine the risk of leaving an engine on a jack stand and the damage it can do if that drops overnight... just looking out for others. I will always share my install secrets to anyone that wants them and I have nothing to hide... but this is definatly an advanced install
06-22-2004, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by SSOnYourSix
BTW... did the passanger side motor mount today because I only brought one with me friday when I did it... took me 20 minutes tubular K-members rock!
tubular K-members rock!
06-22-2004, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 99-LS1-SS
That justifies the price of the K-member right there. I have never seen a car that was harder to change motor mounts on than the F-body.