Check out my custom torque arm!
06-17-2004, 07:16 PM
#22
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cm02WS6 and NHRATA01, Thanks for the explanations on the torque. It now makes a lot more sense to me.
cm02WS6,thanks for the link and info on the parts. I have used onlinemetals.com for a few little projects of mine. I see they offer A513 type 5 tube and have it in the same 1.25" OD-.095" size as you used.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=283&step=2
They also have it in 4130 alloy which is a bit cheaper-http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=250&step=2
Which is the better choice?
Steve
cm02WS6,thanks for the link and info on the parts. I have used onlinemetals.com for a few little projects of mine. I see they offer A513 type 5 tube and have it in the same 1.25" OD-.095" size as you used.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=283&step=2
They also have it in 4130 alloy which is a bit cheaper-http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=250&step=2
Which is the better choice?
Steve
06-17-2004, 09:44 PM
#23
Launching!
Thread Starter
Steve, I think you will be better off with the 4130. Even though I can't find definite data for the A513 type 5 right now, since its a mild steel it should be around 50-60 ksi yield strength from the other DOM mild steels I've found meeting that spec. The 4130 will definately be higher than that. You might want to check on how to weld the 4130 because I believe it can require a special procedure, but am not sure.
Hope that helps,
Chris
Hope that helps,
Chris
06-17-2004, 10:19 PM
#24
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ugh now I remember why I hated Physics LOL... that was the only course I ever had trouble with and reading this stuff just confirms I could have never been a Mechanical Engineer.
06-17-2004, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jd13
At first glance it doesn't look like anything special. Looks are deceiving. That thing looks great.
And who cares about how it actually looks, it's underneath the car. Go test it out.
Hey, if it works good...I'm in the market for a tq arm.
And who cares about how it actually looks, it's underneath the car. Go test it out.
Hey, if it works good...I'm in the market for a tq arm.
06-17-2004, 10:50 PM
#26
I like the design of you cross brace better than my Spohn which attaches to a tubular cross brace which dips down and reduces ground clearance by a bunch. There isn't much clearance with a Spohn.
I panic and hit the brakes hard whenever I come up on exposed manhole covers and dips where they are cutting out the roadbed.
I also have a Spohn driveshaft loop.
I suppose in a worst case scenario if the cross brace where to get snagged by an high obstruction in the road, the cross brace mounting bolts would share off first and then the arm would drop down. But I haven't measured yet to see if the driveshaft loop would still hold the TA off the ground if it were to drop and still be held up by the driveshaft loop.
We do know for sure, it would make a h--- of a bang and racket.
IMO, Spohn should redesign their cross brace like yours to improve ground clearance.
BTW...my car is not lowered. Forget a Spohn if you plan to lower your car.
I panic and hit the brakes hard whenever I come up on exposed manhole covers and dips where they are cutting out the roadbed.
I also have a Spohn driveshaft loop.
I suppose in a worst case scenario if the cross brace where to get snagged by an high obstruction in the road, the cross brace mounting bolts would share off first and then the arm would drop down. But I haven't measured yet to see if the driveshaft loop would still hold the TA off the ground if it were to drop and still be held up by the driveshaft loop.
We do know for sure, it would make a h--- of a bang and racket.
IMO, Spohn should redesign their cross brace like yours to improve ground clearance.
BTW...my car is not lowered. Forget a Spohn if you plan to lower your car.
06-18-2004, 01:14 PM
#28
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Chris,
thanks a lot for all the info, makes coming to these sites worthwhile.
I found a few more chassis shops that sell the threaded rod end adapters that are used in every thing from linkages to 4-links. So it appears that is a very viable method of attaching rod ends. About 8-9$ each. I am going to give this project a shot once I find some spare cash. I think it's well within my skill level.
I'm currently using my stock arm which I heavily re enforced.I doubt it would ever break. However, it is now very heavy and still non adjustable.
I just need to decide how I want to mount the front of the arm. I have already fabbed a custom front mount to my trans cross member to remove the arm from the trans tailshaft and may just modify that if I can for a hinged rod end setup like you did.
I cut off the G-load brace mounts a long time ago on my car. I have a mig and I think welding the 4130 will be fine as long as I preheat the joints and maybe reheat to stress relieve. I think a513 type 5 is a specification and finish for a tubing after doing a little searching. I think it's just a higher quality tube type and can be many different alloys. I'll go with the 4130 tubing the same size and wall thickness you used.
If it turns out near as well as yours did I'll be very happy.
Steve
thanks a lot for all the info, makes coming to these sites worthwhile.
I found a few more chassis shops that sell the threaded rod end adapters that are used in every thing from linkages to 4-links. So it appears that is a very viable method of attaching rod ends. About 8-9$ each. I am going to give this project a shot once I find some spare cash. I think it's well within my skill level.
I'm currently using my stock arm which I heavily re enforced.I doubt it would ever break. However, it is now very heavy and still non adjustable.
I just need to decide how I want to mount the front of the arm. I have already fabbed a custom front mount to my trans cross member to remove the arm from the trans tailshaft and may just modify that if I can for a hinged rod end setup like you did.
I cut off the G-load brace mounts a long time ago on my car. I have a mig and I think welding the 4130 will be fine as long as I preheat the joints and maybe reheat to stress relieve. I think a513 type 5 is a specification and finish for a tubing after doing a little searching. I think it's just a higher quality tube type and can be many different alloys. I'll go with the 4130 tubing the same size and wall thickness you used.
If it turns out near as well as yours did I'll be very happy.
Steve
06-18-2004, 01:44 PM
#29
06-18-2004, 02:27 PM
#30
Launching!
Thread Starter
Steve, let me know if you have any questions when you do it and I'll be glad to help in any way I can. I've got some dimensions written down for the plates I used in the rear mount and other parts, which could be helpful. You also might want one of my extra poly bushings.
Thinking about your front mount, it might just be easier to make a whole new one. Having cut off your tunnel brace mounts might complicate it a little at first, but it might be worth it in the end because there is more space there and the front mount could end up looking a little cleaner. The front mount was the easiest part of making mine.
Thinking about your front mount, it might just be easier to make a whole new one. Having cut off your tunnel brace mounts might complicate it a little at first, but it might be worth it in the end because there is more space there and the front mount could end up looking a little cleaner. The front mount was the easiest part of making mine.
06-18-2004, 04:31 PM
#31
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Chris, yes thank you, I would like the rear plate measurements, that will save me a lot of time.
After a little more thought I'll use mild steel instead of 4130. I could do it with my mig with a few extra heating procedures but why bother.
I'm thinking I can just do a little work to my current front mount to convert to the shackle style mount you and most all aftermarket arms now use.
It's very strong and already done.
Yes, I may be interested in one of your spare bushings once I begin the project.
Here's some nice fuzzy pics of my front mount I built
After a little more thought I'll use mild steel instead of 4130. I could do it with my mig with a few extra heating procedures but why bother.
I'm thinking I can just do a little work to my current front mount to convert to the shackle style mount you and most all aftermarket arms now use.
It's very strong and already done.
Yes, I may be interested in one of your spare bushings once I begin the project.
Here's some nice fuzzy pics of my front mount I built
06-21-2004, 09:12 PM
#32
Launching!
Thread Starter
Steve, that looks good. You will definately be able to adapt it for use with with the shackle style front mount. I'll get you those dimensions, but I won't be able to get them for a month. I just moved here and the dimensions are written down in my toolbox, which will be making it up here when I move into my house in four weeks. I could send them to you then, or wait for you to contact me when you get ready to start it. Let me know,
Chris
Chris
06-22-2004, 10:54 AM
#33
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Chris,
I won't be starting this project for a little while as I have other things that need to be done first. When you get them you can just send them to me if you don't mind.
I appreciate the help!
Steve
I won't be starting this project for a little while as I have other things that need to be done first. When you get them you can just send them to me if you don't mind.
I appreciate the help!
Steve
06-23-2004, 08:48 PM
#37
Launching!
Thread Starter
No, don't have any installed pictures yet. I might be able to get some after I get settled down in my new house in a couple of months. I'll post them up, or wait until I get pictures of my over-the-axle duals. That will be my winter project, though!
