ABS inop code 35, where to look?
ABS inop code 35, where to look? I've been dealing with intermittent ABS inop lights for a while. Most of the time it would appear after hitting a bump but the light would always be back off the next time I got in the car. Well now the light is always on. I downloaded Scan 94/95 and got a code 35 - RR wheel speed sensor circuit broken or shorted to ground. I have a 3-series ABS so I assume RR just stands for 'rear' since I only have one rear sensor in the diff. Checked the sensor and it's nice and tight, wires look good too. Last time I had an ABS inop light the wires had separated from the sensor but they're firmly attached now. Any other ideas for where to look?
OP, the older modules on the 93-97 cars aren't really known for that problem. It's possible, but not likely. You'll have to pin out the wiring between the sensor connector and the ABS module and see if you can find a bad connection in the wiring.
Shoebox has a diagram for a 95 on his site, yours might be similar.
http://shbox.com/1/ABS_schematic.jpg
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Verdad Gallardo Let me guess, Kelsey-Hayes 325? Because those are notorious for bad solder joints. My truck had the same problem.
OP, the older modules on the 93-97 cars aren't really known for that problem. It's possible, but not likely. You'll have to pin out the wiring between the sensor connector and the ABS module and see if you can find a bad connection in the wiring.
Shoebox has a diagram for a 95 on his site, yours might be similar.
http://shbox.com/1/ABS_schematic.jpg
OP, the older modules on the 93-97 cars aren't really known for that problem. It's possible, but not likely. You'll have to pin out the wiring between the sensor connector and the ABS module and see if you can find a bad connection in the wiring.
Shoebox has a diagram for a 95 on his site, yours might be similar.
http://shbox.com/1/ABS_schematic.jpg
got continuity from c405 to the EBCM and from the EBCM to the hydraulic modulator assembly so I was thinking it must either be the EBCM or the sensor in the diff. The wires coming out of the sensor weren't shorted to one another but when I did the test this happened:
This is the 2nd time this has happened! The black wire had exposed copper at the base and looked like it was heading in the same direction. Those wires are way too thin to be hanging out back on the diff in the wind and heat and all that. Of course Strange doesn't sell it anymore so I had to go on a google scavenger hunt. Luckily I found this thread that had all the answers: https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ge-12bolt.html If you run across my thread here in a search, that link will tell you everything you need to know about that sensor.
Using the part number 70085-8080-001 I was able to find a new unit on ebay for $56. It will be here next week and I'm going to inject a blob of clear RTV on top of the sensor so this crap doesn't happen again. Hopefully this fixes the abs inop light.
This is the 2nd time this has happened! The black wire had exposed copper at the base and looked like it was heading in the same direction. Those wires are way too thin to be hanging out back on the diff in the wind and heat and all that. Of course Strange doesn't sell it anymore so I had to go on a google scavenger hunt. Luckily I found this thread that had all the answers: https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ge-12bolt.html If you run across my thread here in a search, that link will tell you everything you need to know about that sensor.
Using the part number 70085-8080-001 I was able to find a new unit on ebay for $56. It will be here next week and I'm going to inject a blob of clear RTV on top of the sensor so this crap doesn't happen again. Hopefully this fixes the abs inop light.
Interesting, that's a unique-looking ABS sensor. Looks like you might have found your problem. For the new one, you might consider picking up some adhesive-lined heat shrink to help support the weak wire connections on their sensor. I get mine at Fry's.
the last time I replaced this thing I was looking for something that I could wrap around the very top of the sensor that was poking out of the diff and could continue wrapping around the wires up to the solder joints I made but couldn't find anything even though I'm sure it's out there. Using heat shrink tubing that would fit around the sensor would be way too big for those puny wires. So I got some auto parts store plastic wire loom, electrical tape, and used a zip tie to hold it to the top of the sensor. It lasted much longer than the first one this way but apparently wasn't fail proof. Is there a product out there that can fit around the sensor but also the wires? Something I can wrap maybe? And also something durable so it can take a beating from the elements back there.
Tried that last time. Using a tube big enough to fit around the sensor will be WAY too big for the wires. Plus gear oil seeps up the threads a little so I doubt it would stay put.
got the new sensor in and for a brief glorious moment the light was off. Then I pulled forward and heard a nasty sounding click from the rear. Backed the car back up onto the ramps and pulled the sensor out, fearing the worst. Looks like I installed it a little too deep.
Now I get to buy ANOTHER new sensor and I probably have a few shards floating around in my diff now. $55 mistake right there not to mention the time it took to solder on the sensor, wait for the silicone to dry etc.
Now I get to buy ANOTHER new sensor and I probably have a few shards floating around in my diff now. $55 mistake right there not to mention the time it took to solder on the sensor, wait for the silicone to dry etc.
Originally Posted by AdsoYo
got the new sensor in and for a brief glorious moment the light was off. Then I pulled forward and heard a nasty sounding click from the rear. Backed the car back up onto the ramps and pulled the sensor out, fearing the worst. Looks like I installed it a little too deep.
Now I get to buy ANOTHER new sensor and I probably have a few shards floating around in my diff now. $55 mistake right there not to mention the time it took to solder on the sensor, wait for the silicone to dry etc.
Now I get to buy ANOTHER new sensor and I probably have a few shards floating around in my diff now. $55 mistake right there not to mention the time it took to solder on the sensor, wait for the silicone to dry etc.
Why would it? That's an aftermarket sensor.
OP, sucks to hear that. For the next one, you might consider using a set of calipers or depth gauge and measure the distance to the reluctor ring so you can set your clearance more accurately.
OP, sucks to hear that. For the next one, you might consider using a set of calipers or depth gauge and measure the distance to the reluctor ring so you can set your clearance more accurately.
Well, the first time I replaced it a couple years ago I screwed it down until it stopped then backed it off a turn. In hindsight I was lucky I hit a tooth on the reluctor gear and not one of the spaces between. This time I counted the threads sticking out of the diff but I must have been off by 1 or 2 and screwed it in too far. There should be a 0.010" gap.
Aftermarket doesn't necessarily make it non-susceptible to recommended specs. If the manual does list depth for factory sensor and the aftermarket sensor is longer, simple math will tell you how far to insert.
I may be off on my thinking, but trying to help. I'm learning as well...
I may be off on my thinking, but trying to help. I'm learning as well...