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Torque arm install help

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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 12:14 AM
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Default Torque arm install help

Trying to reinstall stock torque arm and cannot get the rear mounting holes to line up at all. The rear end is angled up not allowing the mounting holes on the rear end to line up with the holes on the torque arm.

Any suggestions or procedure to get installed?

Thanks
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 12:17 AM
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Do you have your jack stands under your rear axle?
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 12:20 AM
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I had the car on Jack stands at the lift point and jacked up the rear end by the diff pumpkin
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 12:25 AM
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Get the jack stands under the rear axles
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 12:29 AM
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Ok I'll try this, should the front wheels have full weight of the car or jacks stands on the front lift points ok?
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1-Mike
Ok I'll try this, should the front wheels have full weight of the car or jacks stands on the front lift points ok?
It does not matter, you just need to have the rear suspension loaded. Your problem is where the torque arm bolts to the member, the member is angled up to high correct?
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 12:38 AM
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Yeah the problem is where the torque arm bolts to the rear end. The rear mend is angled up to high to get the bolts holes lined up
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 12:41 AM
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Ok, ya you need to get the rear suspension loaded. Put the jack stands under the rear axle. Then the bolts go in from the top and the nuts on the bottom. But they are tall bolts so they may not have room between the mount and the tunnel/underbody so all you have to do is jack up at a rear lift point about 2 in. and those bolts will drop right in.
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 12:43 AM
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When removing my torque arm I always have the suspension loaded with the jack stands under the rear axle from the start.
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 10:18 AM
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^ Be very careful doing that, I always advise against that method

I have personally had a torque arm nearly rip through a trans tunnel when the car shifted under the load of the suspension and the torque arm rotated upwards and the torque arm smashed against the top of the trans tunnel. luckily I had just pulled my hand out from removing the bolts from the torque arm mount

I normally suggest leaving the suspension unloaded and let the rear end hang. with the torque arm loose, you can simply grab the rear end by hand (or using a tool for leverage) and rotate it downwards to line up. The torque arm is the main locating device for the rear. It freely rotates on the lower control arms. Applying load to it applies spring tension to the rear end, and with the spring perches being offset to the rear of the axle, it puts a rotational force on the axle and causes the pinion to rotate upwards.
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales2
^ Be very careful doing that, I always advise against that method

I have personally had a torque arm nearly rip through a trans tunnel when the car shifted under the load of the suspension and the torque arm rotated upwards and the torque arm smashed against the top of the trans tunnel. luckily I had just pulled my hand out from removing the bolts from the torque arm mount

I normally suggest leaving the suspension unloaded and let the rear end hang. with the torque arm loose, you can simply grab the rear end by hand (or using a tool for leverage) and rotate it downwards to line up. The torque arm is the main locating device for the rear. It freely rotates on the lower control arms. Applying load to it applies spring tension to the rear end, and with the spring perches being offset to the rear of the axle, it puts a rotational force on the axle and causes the pinion to rotate upwards.
I apologize if it was bad advice I gave, that's the way I have done it many many many times with zero issues. (Not to imply that is the right way) but I also leave the torque arm attached to the tail shaft until I pop the torque arm off the back then I undo it from the trans tail shaft.
When reinstalling I mount it to the tail shaft first then to the rear.

But absolutely know what you're saying.
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 11:08 AM
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I mean, it can be done that way, it's just adds a bit of difficulty and potential hazard to it.

As for the re-installation, I prefer to actually install the torque arm to the rear end first, then you can use it as leverage to move the rear and locate the front of the arm where it needs to go in the mount. This makes getting the bolts in the rear end easier as well
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 08:35 PM
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Thanks everyone for the advice.
Alright so I used the Jack stands on the axle and was able to get the torque arm over the pumpkin while the front was engaged in the tail shaft bushing. However I still cannot get the mounting holes to line up on top to put the bolts in.
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 08:38 PM
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 09:01 PM
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How far off are ya?
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Old Jun 22, 2016 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1-Mike
Thanks everyone for the advice.
Alright so I used the Jack stands on the axle and was able to get the torque arm over the pumpkin while the front was engaged in the tail shaft bushing. However I still cannot get the mounting holes to line up on top to put the bolts in.
Did you try what BMR said? Ive always let the rear hang, install at the rear first then use the TA as a lever and push the rear up or down to get into the front mount.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 12:36 AM
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let the rear end hang...

bolt torque arm to rear end

then align the front bushing and mount with the transmission by using the jack on the rear end..


worked well for me when I installed my UMI piece
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 06:33 AM
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With the car off the ground, and the suspension "unloaded", stick a small scissors jack or bottle jack under the panhard bar mount on the axle, and use the jack to "lift and rotate" the axle, so you can attach the torque arm........
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