Thanks man, that's good to know. I was kind of wondering how traction might be. Were you on the stock setup before this, and if so how many miles were on it before you changed?

 

It had eibach springs (rears started to sag) with stock shocks/struts with 17k miles on them. I did notice a difference with the koni's though even with my original ones being low mileage.

 

Gotcha. Yeah I think my setup is starting on its way out at 16 years old and with 90k. It's not bouncy or anything like that, it just feels brittle when going over rough stuff if that makes sense, and handeling is not so good

 

Yeah I know what you mean, my rears were worn out from the rear springs sagging. So I went ahead and changed it all at once to be done with it and I'm glad I did. As old as our cars are and as stiff as they ride, everyone that has an fbody that rides in my car always talks about how good it rides. I think it's a good all around budget setup imo.

 

Yep I agree, and BMR gave me a good deal so I couldn't pass it up. From my understanding it will be stiffer with the new stuff, but more solid and secure. I just wish I had more ground clearance to begin with, so I could comfortably do the 1.2" drop. Hopefully the 3/4" drop will be noticeable.

 

I can't remember what all you have done for your rear suspension? Mine landslid once I got the car and started researching about stuff on lowered cars.

I realized I need lca relocation brackets, then I realized that the wheels weren't centered in the wheel well, so I had to get adj lca's. Then after I did mods I need an adj torque arm, and after I installed it, I realized that the torque arm was hitting the bottom of the driveshaft arch on the bottom of the car (the tubing on the aftermarket ones are beefier and hit when you'd hit big dips or potholes going over 20ish). That's when I realized that the rear end wasn't centered left to right and I measured it... only to find out I needed an adj panhard rod. But now everything is exactly where it should be and it feels a lot better handling wise.

I never knew that lowering a car could cause so much trouble lol. Not everyone has these problems, but a lot do it seems. So hopefully you already have the stuff already or don't need it. With all my stock parts, everything worked fine except for the torque arm flexing, but nothing rubbed. But every time I walked to my car, all I could see is the rear wheels not being centered in the wheel well and I couldn't keep it that way

 

Oh wow, you went through some issues lol. Hopefully I don't go through that. I have an adjustable panhard bar, SFC's, and I'm doing relocation brackets, but that's it. Sounds like you've done quite a bit suspension wise.

 

Yeah I think if I didn't lower it that the only thing I would have had to of changed would be the torque arm. If I hadn't done motor mods, then I could have left it lowered and just had it not centered, but it wouldn't have hurt anything. It sounds like the most you would need is adj lca's if your stock torque arm is doing fine. And that's only if it bothers you if the wheels aren't center in the wheel wells.

Definitely was a landslide of the wife not being happy when I say sweetie, I promise this is the last thing I'll need for the suspension. Then more bmr stuff shows up on the porch lol.

 

Haha yes I can relate. I actually am hiding all this suspension stuff from my girl for now. When she rides in it she won't even know the difference actually lol.

My torque arm isn't giving any issues, so hopefully it stays that way. In your opinion what suspension component made the biggest difference to you?

 

I'd say the springs, shocks/struts, and then the lower control arms.

 

Gotcha. Yeah I believe I remember reading that Sam Strano said that shocks and struts were going to make the biggest difference on a high mileage f-body. I'm getting excited to get this stuff on

 

In Feb. I put Koni yellows and sam's springs on my 13k mi car, made a huge difference. Old or new, shocks and springs make a substantial difference. Wheels and tires along with shocks and springs, best bang for the buck on a 4th gen fbody.

 

So if you did it at 13k there's no doubt that I'll feel a BIG difference at 90k lol. Thanks for the feedback

 

I'm running BMR with 1/4" spacer so I have a 1" drop. The car came with long tubes and it sucks at times due to alot less clearance. There's one spot on the way home in my lane and when I hit it doing 50mph I can hear the clamp scrape. I am on 101K mile DeCarbons because I was being cheap when I lowered it. I have Koni's sitting in my shop now which I think will fix my issue and should handle/ride better. I can't wait to see the difference.

I had a 00 Firehawk with the old style BMR (1" drop) springs and stock manifolds and y-pipe. I'd scrape a little on speed bumps but wasn't a big deal like it is with long tubes.

 

Where did you get the 1/4" spacers. and are they for both front and rear?

 

BMR actually sells 1/2" spacers, but I wanted the same drop as I had on the Firehawk. I used 2-3 washers between the bottom of the shock and the lower control arm. Slid the bolts through them and was good. I got an alignment after the suspension settled again.

 

Gotcha. Yeah I got the 1/2" spacers from BMR for the front, and Moog coil spring spacers for the rear. Hopefully I'll be happy with this setup

 

I think it'll be just right and won't have to worry hitting stuff on exhaust. Post pics when you get the stuff on!

I didn't know Moog makes rear isolators, but that's good to know if case I end up needing some. I'm running my stock ones and sits perfect for me. When I put the Koni shocks on it may be too low or too high.

I saw where the Koni was on back order, not sure if it's the yellow or orange but I know where orange ones are and for a great price, $319 shipped

 

Yep a 3/4" drop both front and rear, which should put me at 26.75" and 27" rear. That will give me just under 3" clearance on my exhaust which is the lowest I wanna go.

It's the Moog 18-1901 isolator I believe. Eric at BMR said this should give the desired 3/4' drop

 

Thanks for the part number, I may just need it!