wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

Who makes the best basic rear control arm. Does someone make multi-piece rear bushings? I thought someone had a set with 3 piece bushings. Thanks

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

You're probably thinking of founder's LCAs with the three piece poly ball bushings.

https://www.foundersperformance.com/...v=7516fd43adaa

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

Thanks

Y2K_Frenzy

J&M also makes one/sells one (prob the same exact one) with three piece but it’s a little more expensive. I’ve had the J&M for a good while now on a Mustang and I put the Founders brand on my Camaro not long ago. Both have been good. J&M
The bushings have to be pressed into the arms. The install of the arms to the car was fairly tough. The old ones fell right out but I had press press the new Founders into the brackets with a scissor jack.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Founder-s-swivel-joint-vs-umi-roto-joint

Talking with Sam Strano before buying any parts may be worthwhile. Sam is a master at suggesting best matched set up for the best price possible.

An adjustable LCA's allows dialing every thing in better when alignment is done.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

That makes me wonder how effective the ball and socket is in that design. Rod ends, johnny joints and similar joints like UMI's Roto-joint and Sphon's Del-Sphere, all have air gaps between the mounting ears of the clevis/torque box, and the body of the joint so it car articulate. Rubber accomplishes this by being squishy. If the face of the poly bushing cup, that holds the ball, is flush and very tight against the mounting surface, what do you get out of the pivot ball?

Y2K_Frenzy

Allegedly they tested articulation. The head on the Founders where the bushing goes in and it mounts is a lot wider than the OEM. That’s what made it hard to get in.

The Testing:

We built a fixture which simulated a factory control arm mounting and tested how much force was needed to make the control arm articulate (twist) in those mounts and the results where astounding.

Poly-Joint Bushings:

• 5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque
• 7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque
• 10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque

Standard 2 piece setup using only 85 durometer bushings:

• 5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque
• 7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque
• 10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. The 1/2″ grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque.

https://www.foundersperformance.com/...v=7516fd43adaa
*Edit* The cups that the ***** go in are a soft rubber. You can compress them by hand.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

I ordered the Founders.

Y2K_Frenzy

The side that bolts to the cassis went in easy. It was the axle side that was tough.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

Which end should I install first?

Y2K_Frenzy

I think it’s six of one and half a dozen of the other (same either way). But prob the chassis I guess.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

chassis first.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

Ok. Got these in and they are really nice looking pieces. The center ball looks to be made of delrin with soft poly outers. First bit of advice, buy the bolts as the new bolts are slightly shorter and have locknuts with them. I found that using screwdrivers as prybars helped a lot. On the axle side, putting the bolt in from the inside was easier.

I took the car for a drive down a not so smooth road with some washboard sections. The ride is firm but not harsh. I didn't notice any wheel hop. Hope this helps someone.

Y2K_Frenzy

See how they do when you romp on it coming out of a slow turn. 🤘

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

I didn't get on it too hard because it rained while I was installing them and the roads were wet when I went for a drive. From a dead stop pulling out into the road they seem to hold good.

2JAWZ

iTrader: (1)

Something tells me he will suggest Strano springs no matter what...😁