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What brake upgrades can I do?

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Old 10-25-2016, 09:46 PM
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Default What brake upgrades can I do?

I'm tired of the thin as paper stock rotors on my car and the constant warping. Right now I have Brembo blank rotors with ebc either red stuff or green stuff pads and within a week of installing them they were warped. I don't drive my car hard all the time so they shouldn't be getting hot enough to warp that fast. I also can't go any larger than stock because of my wheel fitment. Are there better quality blank rotors I can get or is there nothing I can do with the stock style stuff?
Old 10-26-2016, 07:43 AM
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You can do a lot. Most likely you didn't warp the rotors but it's crap built up on the them from pad deposits. I mean you can warp them too you don't need to drive the car hard all the time to do that. But a week.. man that's quick.

I have a lot of nice blanks of various brands. Here I'd likely use StopTech. And we have a lot of different pads. While EBC is one, I'd likely use something else but can't recommend anything until I learn how you really drive and what condition caused this issue. Could be the wrong type compound for your use.
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Old 10-26-2016, 10:02 AM
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Driving style is 100% street driven with highway pulls. With the turbo setup those pulls will get quite fast.

How can I tell if it's build up versus warped rotors? I assumed they are warped due to heat as I can see several heat spots on the rotor faces. I was actually wondering if cooling ducts would be a good idea even if I'm not constantly making hard stops?
Old 10-26-2016, 12:07 PM
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If you have stone cold brakes, and then heat the crap out of them all of a sudden that thermal shocks them and can warp them. Especially if you then just park the car with them steaming hot.

Can you warp the brakes in a week? Sure, you can do it in one stop. And if you did not bed the EBC's correctly, like give them the 200 miles they want before driving them hard, you are only making things worse as they lack bite, which causes them to glaze, and glazed pads don't stop, and then you stay on them harder and longer, which builds more heat and... bingo.
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Old 10-26-2016, 12:08 PM
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And no, you don't need or WANT ducting. In fact that could well make matters worse, as the rotor is even colder, gets bigger shock up and then down if you only use the brakes once hard then that's it. Ducts are for constant cooling, and folks have had road race cars overcool the brakes and find they'd crack rotors quickly. I told one guy to block half his off because he as killing expensive rotors fast. We "debated". I said JUST TRY IT. He did, and the rotor life improved dramatically.
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Old 10-29-2016, 04:42 AM
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I will say that I had an 01 Z28 that ate the stock rotors / duralast rotors like candy. They would warp out within a week or when it first rained. I turned them and they wouldnt even last a day longer. It was horrible. I replaced them with eBay replacements and they resolved the issue. I know your rotors are much higher quality but I wasn't sure how old it was or if it was just recently replaced.



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