johnp94

iTrader: (12)

Name brand safety sto. Part ss-7618-x made in china

johnp94

iTrader: (12)

I'm using the sama calipers. Should I remove fluid with a turkey Bastet from reservoir before I push the piston or should I bleed while pushing the piston. I would rather use turkey baster. Which is recommended ?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

It looks like NAPA calls has "semi-metalic" pads as another part, although the ones you have contain a little iron oxide. (rust)

I keep an ear cleaning bulb (available from any drug store) around to remove extra fluid when needed for this kind of thing. (I find it more compact for storage and its easier to get in to places than a turkey baster.) A turkey baster may work, but I'd think it hard to get into the reservoir.

As you do the pads, don't forget to put the wear indicators on the inside of the rotor.

johnp94

iTrader: (12)

If I use baster, which I have. Then I don't need to bleed ?

rybern

iTrader: (5)

You shouldn't need to bleed if you don't break any lines loose or allow fluid to get low in the reservoir.

If the car had ANY vibration when pressing the brake peddle, then have the rotors turned or replace them. Orielly's will turn rotors for $12 each.

Make sure you take the guide pins apart and re-lube(I use axle grease) them so the caliper will float freely.

Before you put your wheels back on, start your car and pump up the brakes. then check to see that the rotors are turning freely. If they don't and you already re-lubed the caliper pins, then the flexible brake lines may need to be replaced because the lines can collapse and not allow the fluid freely return to reservoir.

Good luck, this stuff is pretty easy once you understand what to look for.

rybern

iTrader: (5)

One more thing, if no one added fluid to the reservoir as the pads wore down, you probably won't have to remove fluid from the reservoir. For years before I knew better, I would always keep my brake fluid reservoir topped off. IMO there is no need to do this because if the reservoir is topped off when the pads are new and as the pads wear down the fluid level lowers but should never get below the "low". I hope that makes since.

BTW, I'm not a professional mechanic and may not know what the heck I'm talking about. My suggestions are worth what you paid for them. Just sharing my experiences.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

My thoughts exactly I was like wtf

johnp94

iTrader: (12)

Thanks, totally comprehend. I don't know what the guide pins are ?. Im working on the rear now.

johnp94

iTrader: (12)

I googled. I checked and see the pin bend the small bolt. Unloosing bolt then pull out pin. Thanks.

rybern

iTrader: (5)

The guide pins are what allow the caliper to float. This floating allows the caliper to provide equal pressure to both sides of the rotor and allows the caliper to center itself on the rotor when braking.

I have less experience with rear brakes since they last so much longer. So, I can't provide much help there.

johnp94

iTrader: (12)

It looks like I already pushed the piston passed the point to fit new pads. Do I push piston as far back as it will go or enough to fit news pads ? Is their such a thing as pushin them too much ?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The Piston will need to go all the way out and bottom out metal-to-metal in order for your new pads to get over the rotor. If your rotor has rust around the edges and has caused a raised lip to form, you may even encounter some issues there.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You are headed into the weeds...

I highly recommend that you seek out a set of the GM (published by Helm, Inc.) Factory Service Manuals. Some of them are out of print, but you can find them on eBay, usually. They have every procedure and detail you could ever need.


The brake system has a brake bracket that bolts to the car. (The pins slide in to these brackets.) If you need to remove this, the caliper attaching bolts need to be properly torqued afterwards. If you remove the rotors, you'll need to remove these brackets.

If you replace the rear rotor, you'll need to adjust the parking brakes to match the new bores of the rear rotors. (This is a long drawn-out procedure.)

For the caliper bracket pins: They have indents in the end to accept a thin wrench. You'll want to put a wrench on this before you undo the caliper bolts so you don't twist the pin. The pins are known to flat-spot and if you twist them, they can get jammed in the caliper bracket. If they come out badly flat-spotted or do jam, you may need to get new pins as a part of this job.

Once you get a wrench on the pins, the caliper should unbolt from the bracket pretty easily. If you get an old coat hangar, you can hook the coat hangar to the fender or a spring so you don't stretch the brake hose or need disconnect it. (and cause a situation where you would need to bleed the system)

johnp94

iTrader: (12)

All good, thanks everyone. I started on the backs. When I got to the fronts I took a short cut. I took off the bolt holding the pin in. The caliper folded open exposing easy removal and install of new brake pads. I pushed the piston back and folded the caliper shut. Greased the pins and put bolt back. Down side is the old abutment brackets weren't changed but the brakes never steeled. Just saw it was time to replace pads. I didn't change rotors. I'll read the info you recommended before I change rotors. I'm going to post photo of caliper stool I used when I changed the rears. ( see next post ).

johnp94

iTrader: (12)

I bought these from a rv supply store. Walmart sells these but they are a little bigger. I used one to sit on. The other to rest caliper on.

johnp94

iTrader: (12)

The backs didn't spin. So I thought all was good. The fronts spun a lot. I reinstalled. Whet is the consequence if I keep driving with them. Where do I get these replacements.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

After several missed subtle hints... I have corrected the problem.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

My opinion is:
- If they don't spin, but you can lube them and they slide effortlessly, then you'll probably be OK for a while. (Maybe not until the next change - so you'll need to be on the lookout for uneven pad wear if they seize up.)
- If they don't slide well after a lube, then you definitely need to change them. Any local parts store should have replacements.
- Sometimes the bearings pressed into the caliper brackets can get flat-spotted also. If new pins still don't slide well, you may need reman brackets, as well.

johnp94

iTrader: (12)

Thanks. I lll change them. Now that all the bolts are removable it will be easier to work on this any time. Even though I didn't remove the front caliper bracket I still broke the bolts free for when I change rotors one day.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If you broke the big beefy caliper bracket bolts, you'll need a 1/2" drive torque wrench and then properly torque them to 74 ft lbs.

This is why. https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...f-freeway.html