moist

Hey all,

I recently installed some BMR rear LCA's and adjustable Panhard bar(both poly bushings) on my 00 Trans Am. Since then I've had a pretty consistent rattle. I'm pretty sure it's the panhard bar because after torquing to specs I thought what the hell and cranked on the bolts and seemed to make it better. The rattle i'm experiencing seemed to shift sides it was coming from when turning and now is only happening going straight on less than even roads and turning right. I've read washers being used to help make things more snug and I've also read that the difference in size of the stock bolts and bushing sleeves can cause some rattle. Can anyone confirm?

2001ws6ft

I know, it's a pain in the a%$, but would it be worth re-installing the old panhard rod and driving just a tiny bit to see if the noise goes away? If you're car isn't lowered, the nonadjustable panhard rod should be ok to drive around for a bit. That way you can know for sure if it is or isn't the new panhard rod. On a related note, two years ago I bought a wireless "stethoscope." I was hesitant on buying one since they're so much money, but when I did, I was so glad I did buy the thing. The hours of frustration saved made it worth it for me.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

You've replaced 6 OEM rubber bushings ( essentially they were 'shock absorbers' at connecting points) with 6 poly bushings. Those 'rattles' that were previously non-existent came to be. We, I'm a 'modifier' too, seek better handling in our suspension components but give up what GM designed into the components. Same thing happens with aftermarket torque arms, users complain of new noises.
Just my opinion with no way of proving it.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Did you grease the bushings? Also make sure that you have no gap between the bar and the mount.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

^^^ Yep, grease lubrication is necessary. And NO GAP at each end of the steel bushing in the polys' that contact the mounting surfaces.

moist

I might try that. Yeah it isn't lowered yet.

moist

Yes, I put grease on the bushings when initially installing and then used a grease gun after. I saw a bit of a gap so that's what led me to cranking on the bolt to squeeze the mount. I had them torqued to 80 ft/lbs. Don't know what they're at now, but it did help somewhat. it seems the mount is a touch too big for the bushing?

moist

Yeah, I read they make noise so I was prepared for some more, but the rattling/tapping i've been experiencing seems excessive in how loud it is.

moist

It has been determined that the rear end is on it's way out.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Well that sucks! Time to upgrade!

i was going to post that my car... which is full of hiem and poly bushings, is the biggest loudest rattle trap I have ever owned. It has every piece of fancy suspension you can buy. Rattle. Trap. Lol

moist

Haha, don't the heims have a ton of play on these cars?

moist

Haha, don't the heims have a ton of play on these cars?

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Only from the companies that use cheap heim joints. The deal is we can all make LCA and PHB for the same cost when it comes to the arms themselves. The companies that sell the exact same product yet sell it for extremely lower are doing so by the one thing none of control and that's by using cheaper heim joints. to drop the value of their product. Sadly everyone runs out and buys the cheap product then once it makes noise lumps everyone together. We use a high quality teflon lined heim joint. This quiets down the clanking sound.

2001ws6ft

Was it the axle bearing that was going?

moist

It was the carrier bearings, the gears in the diff that were shot, and pinion seal was also no good. Replaced the carrier and had new Motive 3.73's installed.

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

I would just like to say that I have quite a few poly & helm joint parts of my car (UMIPerformance & Midwest Chassis) and I have absolutely no rattles or noises to report. Key to a quiet ride is make sure all your joints are well lubricated with whatever the manufacturer suggests, and make sure everything is torqued down tight (With the rear end loaded so you don't introduce bind), make sure you have the right pinion angle set (This one surprised me, but really helped to eliminating random noises going over bumps). I used to have all sorts of rattles but once I did these correctly, I haven't hear a squeak.