Y2K_SS

Good thread, lots of good info. Wanted to bump this back up as I am looking to get into autocross.

In the last month I have went from stock to adding UMI rear control arms, panhard bar, rear sway bar, strut tower brace and I have their subframe connectors that need to be installed yet. I have a hard top though so it's pretty stiff without them. I have also added a Stranos brake master cylinder brace and Koni STR.T shocks with BMR springs. Also added drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads. My car had some BFG Sport Comp 2 tires on it when I bought it that seem to grip really well.

94LS1B4C

iTrader: (3)

There was a thread long ago but I can't seem to find it. Wish it was made a sticky, but it had good information as to what to look out for "problems" f-body's have. Some of the one's I think it mentioned were: Power steering pump overheating, Oil control issues ect. It also listed good, common things that would be good to replace on the car before hand, blank brake rotors & good pads, brake fluid/flush, check/replace bushings if bad, ect. It would be nice if some of the more experienced guys could put together a beginers checklist that would help us "less experienced" guys start out in the sport.

landstuhltaylor

iTrader: (6)

As I said elsewhere, enjoy the wheel passing you. Also IMO spending all that was dumb instead of just showing up.

But in the interest of being useful, throw an extra quart of oil in it.

stp001

My advice to any first timer would be to make sure you have a couple of extra lbs. of tire pressure in those street tires, and forget them. Don't worry about it anymore. Take plenty of drinks and a few snacks. A folding chair and umbrella are nice for hot days. Get there in plenty of time to walk the course a few times. As a general rule, skip the novice walk.......way too much technical info for novices. You won't remember any of it when you start burning rubber. Time will be better spent just walking around the course on your own. When it comes time to make your runs, don't worry about times. Do a burn out, do a little drifting, and put the hammer down and steer through it. After a while, finesse driving for time is fun. Starting out, driving like a madman will teach you more!

JD_AMG

Your not going to like this when it comes time to stop hard.
Make sure to keep an eye on those rotors for cracks.
Also you added a larger rear bar without getting a larger front bar?

JD_AMG

Solid advice.
Pack a cooler with plenty of water and food. Bring sunscreen, bring tools (torque wrench especially).
Ride with an experienced driver if you can.

StoneColdLT1

iTrader: (8)

At the minimum, make sure your tires have good tread and are not dry, make sure your shocks aren't shot, give those bushings an inspection and make sure they're not dry and/or cracked, jack it up and check the play in your ball joints, tie rods, and hubs. Also go through the fluids, especially the brake fluid, if it's dark, bleed it out and replace, preferably with some DOT4 high temp racing fluid.

These cars are getting up there in age and I wouldn't just show up without a proper inspection of the suspension and fluids. My car is almost 25 years old, the tires it came with had plenty of tread but were scary dry, my shocks were original and on their way out, and I had the original single piston LT1 calipers which are nothing to write home about. I'm not one to get bored with cars and sell/buy/trade them often, I found a clean F body I love, I don't ever plan on selling it and everything on it is almost as old as me, so when I decided to do shocks and springs, I just went all in and pretty much restored and upgraded the entire front of my car. Definably not worth it if you plan on eventually selling the car, in that case I would just replace what needs replacing as it breaks.

As for the upgrades you were mentioning, the stock K member and control arms in these cars aren't that bad. If you check out my thread, I rebuilt the stock ones. One day, MAYBE I'll go the tubular route, but until then, a good set of springs (idk who offers less than a 1" drop) and shocks, a set of sway bars, tires, and some sub frame connectors will give you better performance/handling per dollar than tubular suspension or a tubular k member will.

I'm in the same boat as you except I'm getting on the road course first with maybe some autocross events planned for next year. I'm going to take a full day of driving school where it will be broken up between a class and driving my car on the track with an instructor, which is necessary to get on the track for their open track days by me.