Originally Posted by tug686spd

Its all about getting the right mechanical leverage and the right master cylinder bore. My pedal is slightly firmer than stock. In comparison to steering when setup right it is nothing like loosing power steering. Its all about hydraulic psi and leverage. Using your pedal ratio, length of pedal below pivot point and length above it give you the multiplying factor for how much pressure results from pressure put in. Lets say you have 6" below and 3" above, this would give you a 2 to 1 pedal ratio. Meaning if you push 100 pound on the pedal youd see 200 pounds on the master. The diameter of the master also plays a roll to because as you increase in size it inceases the surface area decreasing your psi. Im by no means the smartest guy on this subject and there has been plenty posted on it on this forum and others but I'll help if i can.

Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead

Call Wilwoods tech line, they can give you the correct sizing for a master plus whatever calipers etc and a bias control valve to make it happy.

I installed dual brake masters with a balance bar on a fox body, stops fantastic from 150 and lower.. 4 piston with 14" rotors front dual piston with 14" rotors in the rear.

Originally Posted by 01ssreda4

I went with the manual master bc when I swapped to drag brakes they got very touchy. There was no pedal feedback so you'd dive into the pedal like normal and almost smack your face on the steering wheel. Took getting used to every time I took the car out. Figured the manual master would give me back the pedal feel of a stock car. The pads are also super aggressive so the initial cold bite is brutal.