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Painful part is working upside down on the pedals lol
Overall not difficult but there are some foam rod stays that crumbled on my car, safety glasses would have been a good idea before climbing under there.
Agreed on just sanding and painting it. Powder coating will likely hurt the internals.
[QUOTE=LS6427;19728021]Mine is still fine, but has some surface rust on it. I figured I would replace it while the engine is out.
Or, can these drums be sand blasted and then powder coated.....?
But curious how hard they are to swap out....?
Thanks.
.[/QUOTE
Get ready to be lying with your back on the seat and your legs stretched over while stuffing your head under there to disconnect the brake pedal and onto the aggravating task of getting the four nuts of the booster studs. Not much room to work down there in that position and be sure to have a fan blowing on you as it can be somewhat of a PITA and your going to need to be cool and remain calm.
Nah, just pull the seat, trust me you'll thank me.
Here's mine, went with a Strange manual master.
I was about to go your route on my car due to only having about 11 in of vac. but was able to use a factory booster once Rock Auto sent me a working AC Delco reman. It totally sucked to have to pull one twice. I hear you about the seat though and perhaps if I do another one I may take it out.
Not to start a pissing match but I use https://m.summitracing.com/parts/dhb-m39476, do your own research. I run a 02 camaro at 3800 race weight with 127-130 traps speeds and no trouble stopping. I run a drag wheel setup all the time with no proportion valve and no trouble. Pics look similar?
All in I think it was $53 for my abs delete and manual brake conversion. I used the above master cylinder, 2 3/16" tee's with flare nuts, maybe 3' 3/16" brake line, origanal brake pushrod cut to length and pivot point moved up 1-5/16" if memory is right, a grade 8 bolt 7/16" or 1/2" diameter (cant remember which one) and 2 washers with a long enough smooth shaft at bottom to to go through brake pedal arm and brake pushrod with a washer on both sides of pushrod, and a cotter pin to hold washer and push rod on grade 8 bolt. I used 1/4" plate bolted to original booster bolts then bolted master cylinder to it but them adapter plates can be bought cheap to. After finding the length the pushrod needed to be I cut it and turned a ball on the end with a belt sander. With this master cylinder like other brands the front reservoir goes to rear brakes and back reservoir goes to front brakes.
All in I think it was $53 for my abs delete and manual brake conversion. I used the above master cylinder, 2 3/16" tee's with flare nuts, maybe 3' 3/16" brake line, origanal brake pushrod cut to length and pivot point moved up 1-5/16" if memory is right, a grade 8 bolt 7/16" or 1/2" diameter (cant remember which one) and 2 washers with a long enough smooth shaft at bottom to to go through brake pedal arm and brake pushrod with a washer on both sides of pushrod, and a cotter pin to hold washer and push rod on grade 8 bolt. I used 1/4" plate bolted to original booster bolts then bolted master cylinder to it but them adapter plates can be bought cheap to. After finding the length the pushrod needed to be I cut it and turned a ball on the end with a belt sander. With this master cylinder like other brands the front reservoir goes to rear brakes and back reservoir goes to front brakes.
Rear brakes
Front brakes
Push rod
Well.....much thanks for posting this info....
My car will never see a drag track....(((Maybe for a fun run just for ***** a giggles)))
Its a 100% street car doing 100% roll races and highway pulls with over 1,000 RWHP. A daily driver with a **** load of RWHP.
Should I just stay with the factory booster drum set up....?
My car will never see a drag track....(((Maybe for a fun run just for ***** a giggles)))
Its a 100% street car doing 100% roll races and highway pulls with over 1,000 RWHP. A daily driver with a **** load of RWHP.
Should I just stay with the factory booster drum set up....?
.
I went with the older style Mopar manual brake master, looks just like his and the Strange. Reused the pushrod also. Cut down the non-rounded end and threaded it for a simple rod end to line up without binding through full pedal travel. In the process learned the pushrod is hardened by eating up half a dozen taps lol
Pedal feel is much stiffer and there is ZERO sponge, always hated that about certain GM vehicles. Haven't gotten her past 120 or so in a while because my setup using stock brakes takes longer to stop than it did with brake booster. At this point I think its time to toss on a fresh set of more aggressive pads. Car weighs 3,180 lbs with 3/4 full tank so it SHOULD stop faster than it did at full weight.
My cam doesn't produce enough vac for reliable brake booster, after rolling through an intersection with pedal on the floor I committed to manual brakes. In hindsight I should have tried a vac canister first. Highly suggest trying one first if you have almost enough manifold vac.
Like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1464
Ls6427, it's all up to your preference. If there's nothing wrong with your setup and you want to keep abs just paint or replace your booster. I'd send you mine but she's long gone now.
imma stocker, did you move the pushrods pivot point up on the brake pedal? The same hydraulic pressures can be created with manual brake as power if the leverage is correct. I'm still on factory calipers and advanced auto pads. And I believe my master is something like 1984 Dodge Caravan also.
Here's the best pic of pedal I can get with cage and Kirkeys in the way.
Last edited by tug686spd; 09-20-2017 at 01:42 PM.
Reason: Added pic
Ls6427, it's all up to your preference. If there's nothing wrong with your setup and you want to keep abs just paint or replace your booster. I'd send you mine but she's long gone now.
imma stocker, did you move the pushrods pivot point up on the brake pedal? The same hydraulic pressures can be created with manual brake as power if the leverage is correct. I'm still on factory calipers and advanced auto pads. And I believe my master is something like 1984 Dodge Caravan also.
Here's the best pic of pedal I can get with cage and Kirkeys in the way.
So does having manual brakes, and no vacuum booster, require harder foot pressure for the same stopping performance. Basically you lose power brakes.......like losing power steering....???
Or is it still very responsive and sensitive to foot pressure.....?
So does having manual brakes, and no vacuum booster, require harder foot pressure for the same stopping performance. Basically you lose power brakes.......like losing power steering....???
Or is it still very responsive and sensitive to foot pressure.....?
.
Its all about getting the right mechanical leverage and the right master cylinder bore. My pedal is slightly firmer than stock. In comparison to steering when setup right it is nothing like loosing power steering. Its all about hydraulic psi and leverage. Using your pedal ratio, length of pedal below pivot point and length above it give you the multiplying factor for how much pressure results from pressure put in. Lets say you have 6" below and 3" above, this would give you a 2 to 1 pedal ratio. Meaning if you push 100 pound on the pedal youd see 200 pounds on the master. The diameter of the master also plays a roll to because as you increase in size it inceases the surface area decreasing your psi. Im by no means the smartest guy on this subject and there has been plenty posted on it on this forum and others but I'll help if i can.
tug - thanks for the pic. Yes I did drill a hole in the pedal, maybe I'm a tad lower but it looks the same (eyeballing from a picture compared to memory anyways)
Really plan to change brakes this weekend. Have a feeling these old pads and rotors aren't biting anymore. Do pads have a shelf life parked out in the sun for several years?
Its all about getting the right mechanical leverage and the right master cylinder bore. My pedal is slightly firmer than stock. In comparison to steering when setup right it is nothing like loosing power steering. Its all about hydraulic psi and leverage. Using your pedal ratio, length of pedal below pivot point and length above it give you the multiplying factor for how much pressure results from pressure put in. Lets say you have 6" below and 3" above, this would give you a 2 to 1 pedal ratio. Meaning if you push 100 pound on the pedal youd see 200 pounds on the master. The diameter of the master also plays a roll to because as you increase in size it inceases the surface area decreasing your psi. Im by no means the smartest guy on this subject and there has been plenty posted on it on this forum and others but I'll help if i can.
Well, I'd go the manual route......if there's just a kit I could buy.
Is there different parts to choose from to buy, then just install them. I'm sure the shop thats installing my turbo kit can install it all for me at the same time....
Call Wilwoods tech line, they can give you the correct sizing for a master plus whatever calipers etc and a bias control valve to make it happy.
I installed dual brake masters with a balance bar on a fox body, stops fantastic from 150 and lower.. 4 piston with 14" rotors front dual piston with 14" rotors in the rear.
09-18-2017, 10:49 PM
Replacing Brake Booster Drum.........How hard is it? 
