Just giving my feedback after installing a torque arm relocation bracket and full length adjustable torque arm on my 2000 Z28 M6, with ~18k mi on it currently. Bought the items to be proactive with regard to durability so the torque arm wasn't mounted to the tail-shaft and to dial-in proper pinion angle since the car is lowered.

Removed existing components and installed new components in ~3 hrs this past Sat. morning. Install was smooth and trouble free. Fit and finish of all parts and hardware were top notch. Called manufacturer the day before install to confirm adjustments considering my car is lowered. Followed instructions as directed. Adjusted to spec.

However, upon initial drive a bang/clunk was present with quick inputs to the throttle, example: 25 mph on/off throttle sounded like my floor was being hit with a mallet. Similar noise was evident if you go in reverse then proceed forward. Not as loud but still a clunk/bang. Driving smoothly yeilded no clunk/bang, NVH levels were increased but expected considering the poly bushing mounts into crossmember attached to the floor. NVH levels were fine, nothing agitating. Car felt like it had less body roll front to back on accel and decel. Same for turns, seemed flatter. Shifting seemed improved as well.

Trouble shooting ensued for a good bit of the day Sat. and Sun. as well. Couldn't figure out the clunk/bang. Checked torque specs on everything installed and other driveline and suspension components too. Driveline angles checked and on point. Swapped the trans mount just to rule that out. Had friends who build/fabricate cars come investigate. Stumped.

Monday morning, talked to the manufacturer. Their head tech adviser said I already went down his list of trouble shooting items for the components. He too didn't know where to direct me. Just to check for witness marks on chassis and components. Used a lumber crayon to mark anything close together as well.

Mon. and Tue. evenings after work was more of the same. Checked for clearance issues with yellow lumber crayon along driveline and rearend. No contact was being made. Adjustments to settings on torque arm relocation bracket and full length adjustable torque arm, again. Somewhat less bang/clunk was present by adjusting the torque arm relocation bracket setting to the higher mounting point for the torque arm. But indeed still banged/clunked as before. Just not as sensitive to do so.

Wed. night I decided I had enough and swapped everything back to stock. Returning the components to supplier. Too many hrs within 5 days of research and wrench time were being had on just replacing components to something that wasn't even broke, just trying to be proactive.

The manufacturer built top notch parts and was tremendous on the phone and via e-mail. Hats off to them. Supplier didn't hesitate to take components back, again much appreciated.

In no way shape or form did I write this as anything negative toward the manufacturer. As I found in my research across numerous sites, banging and clunking have been reported with the torque arm relocation bracket and the full length adjustable torque arm, dating back 10 yrs or more. Seems to be a hit or miss with cars, peoples' expectations, or just what is actually reported. Banging/clunking noises seem to be made just from the torque arm being mounted to the floor and the noises are created via the driveline loading and unloading.

The torque arm relocation bracket and full length adjustable torque arm didn't meet my personal expectations. Just wanted to provide my experience, to help anyone who can benefit from the information.

 

Did you find out where the banging was coming from? I know my UMI mid length TrqArm bangs on the tunnel where it bolts to the rear end. It is pretty common on lowered cars. When I had my rear out a few months ago swapping gears I noticed that it actually caused a small tear in the sheet metal from hitting over the years. There just isn't much room under the car for bigger beefed up components sometimes. Sorry you didn't get what you hoped for.

 

I'll edit and clarify more above. There was no contact anywhere. I checked for witness marks everywhere. Front. Rear. Driveline. Torque arm. Etc.

The banging was just the driveline loading and unloading. Since the torque arm was attached to the floor directly... that's the noises it made.

 

What about swapping out to a normal torque arm front mount. Not a relocation unit? But retain the full length adj TA?

I read you already returned everything.

Sucks spending all the time only to go back to stock stuff. Another option would be the trick Unbalanced Engineering Decoupled Torque Arm.

 

I was thinking of doing just that. However, I didn't want to modify the stock torque arm mount for the transmission to get the poly bushing installed within it, then there still be an issue.

It was getting to the point I thought there was something else wrong with the car. Like why can't this be resolved? I've gone through everything numerous times and tried various setups, I thought to myself.

 

Could have been your trans mount. Was it in decent shape?

 

Yes, I swapped a new one in during one of the troubleshooting sessions as well. No difference was made

 

I'm guessing this was an adjustable torque arm? Did you look to see if there was any movement where the rod eyes of the arm attach to the rear end bracket? I have seen this before if those bolts are not fully torqued. I have circled the points in question here

 

Yes. Were torque to specs initially. Then progressively increased up to 50%.