UMI K Member
#1
UMI K Member
I had a UMI K member installed recently. The alignment shop aligned the car and all was well until a few hard stops and the front bolt holding the lower front control arm to the K member slid.
I watched the shop tighten the bolt. It appears that the bolt didn't grip properly to the K member due to the powder coating. Wondering if anyone has had similar issues and what solutions are there to prevent this.
Should I just have the shop re-tighten it and hope for the best?
I watched the shop tighten the bolt. It appears that the bolt didn't grip properly to the K member due to the powder coating. Wondering if anyone has had similar issues and what solutions are there to prevent this.
Should I just have the shop re-tighten it and hope for the best?
#5
I just replied to your email. Sometimes we've recommended roughing the washers on problem units. It seems to usually be a tightening issue. And agree as above, once you disrupt the powder coat it seems to grip better. I'd retighten and give it a try.
For those with a shop or tools handy you can also put a small tack weld on the washer. It doesn't take much at all.
ramey
For those with a shop or tools handy you can also put a small tack weld on the washer. It doesn't take much at all.
ramey
#6
FormerVendor
iTrader: (77)
I just saw your PM as well.
Occasionally we get the alignment shops that do not tighten those bolts tight enough, since it is a slot there is always a chance of movement so they need to be tight. If you have UMI a-arms as well the bushing sleeves or rod ends spacers are designed not bind the a-arm when tightened tight.
The only downfall to them moving is once they move they tend make a path and want to keep following it, at least this is my experience. Maybe grab some extra lock washers like a star style to dig in a little more.
Hope that helps.
Occasionally we get the alignment shops that do not tighten those bolts tight enough, since it is a slot there is always a chance of movement so they need to be tight. If you have UMI a-arms as well the bushing sleeves or rod ends spacers are designed not bind the a-arm when tightened tight.
The only downfall to them moving is once they move they tend make a path and want to keep following it, at least this is my experience. Maybe grab some extra lock washers like a star style to dig in a little more.
Hope that helps.
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#8
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (40)
Are you still using the stock hardware? I see this a lot with stock bolts. Usually I recommend running aftermarket hardware and running the torque higher to help provide better clamping force
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Glenn ***
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www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
#10
On The Tree
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my chassis shop just set the alignment then welded the apropiate washers to the k member so i would not have issues with the lower a arm moving and coming out of alignment. this is good to do especially if ur running aftermarket tubular a arms on the slotted style k members.. just another option u could look into doing...
#11
@bnastystuntz thanks for suggestion. I have had the car aligned once again with new hardware, washers and lock washers and it was torqued higher. So far its holding. A friend of mine with BMR k-member had same place do his alignment and used same hardware and no issues.
I don't expect to be having trouble again. If I do, I will likely have a tack weld applied.
I don't expect to be having trouble again. If I do, I will likely have a tack weld applied.
#12
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#16
FormerVendor
iTrader: (77)
The locks are built into the road race k-members and not something that can really be purchased and installed. They would need to be welded on if purchased, see image.
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/im...1aaaaa_LRG.jpg
http://umiperformance.com/catalog/im...1aaaaa_LRG.jpg