Fbody Wheel Hop Issue
#1
Fbody Wheel Hop Issue
I have currently just finished rebuilding the majority of my 99 WS6. I have MWC LCA's, short tunnel mount torque arm, and panhard bar. I just installed Viking double adjustables on all for corners with 300lb springs in the front and 150 lb springs in the rear and a set of LCA relocation brackets.
I am currently having a bad wheel hop issue when getting on it on the street.
The ride heights are 26 3/4" from fender to ground in front and 27 3/4" in rear from fender to ground. The pinion angle is set at -2 degrees. The torque arm is on the middle hole (3 up from bottom). The LCA are at a 2.9 degree angle sloping down from chassis to rear (first hole down on bracket). The rear shocks are set at 9 compression, 9 rebound.
The car is on sumitomo 275/40/17 street tires
What do you suggest to help solve this issue?
I am currently having a bad wheel hop issue when getting on it on the street.
The ride heights are 26 3/4" from fender to ground in front and 27 3/4" in rear from fender to ground. The pinion angle is set at -2 degrees. The torque arm is on the middle hole (3 up from bottom). The LCA are at a 2.9 degree angle sloping down from chassis to rear (first hole down on bracket). The rear shocks are set at 9 compression, 9 rebound.
The car is on sumitomo 275/40/17 street tires
What do you suggest to help solve this issue?
#2
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (40)
Auto or stick car? I can tell you those tires aren't doing you any favors. What pressure are they at? Also Shock settings seem a little stiff also for the street. I would drop them down to around 4c 6r and see how much that helps
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Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
#3
It's an auto. Yank ss3600. The car makes 390rwhp. I just get scared I'm gonna break something in the rear. If the car is wound up/higher Rpms and spinning it doesn't hop but as soon as it tries to hook it starts hopping. I just want to be able to leave a car show and get on it without them hopping.
its on 275/60/15 MT drag radials when I race it.
but the tires are at 32psi
its on 275/60/15 MT drag radials when I race it.
but the tires are at 32psi
#4
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
Post #1 states 'The rear shocks are set at 9 compression, 9 rebound. The car is on sumitomo 275/40/17 street tires. I am currently having a bad wheel hop issue when getting on it on the street. '
Post #3 states 'its on 275/60/15 MT drag radials when I race it. but the tires are at 32psi'
So different tires for street and strip. what are the rear shock settings for the strip ?
Wheel hop on the strip ?
Post #3 states 'its on 275/60/15 MT drag radials when I race it. but the tires are at 32psi'
So different tires for street and strip. what are the rear shock settings for the strip ?
Wheel hop on the strip ?
#5
I haven't had a chance to get it to the track and probably won't before the end of the season. So I've just been cruising around on my street tires. And I really don't want to break my rear or driveshaft because of wheel hop when just messing around on the street.
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#9
I've noticed if the car is rolling at like 10-20 mph and I floor it, it tends to wheel hop instead of just spin. I've tired both softening and stiffening the rear shocks. It seems to hop less with them stiffer but doesn't eliminate it. I may try moving the torque arm down a hole.
#10
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
I run my rear QA1s' double adjustable very stiff.
That 3 degree angle from your post #1 was measured 'parked'. At the time of acceleration,the rear of the body 'squats' and that changes that angle during acceleration. That 3 degrees(let's refer to it at +3 degrees) changes to 0 degrees(and even to -3 degrees) if acceleration is 'violent' enough.
Relocation brackets(action/reaction) are designed to push the body upward and due to 'for every action there is an opposite reaction' push the tires into the pavement.
Sometimes I set the shocks to max for both compression and rebound so that any body squat pushes the tires down harder and with no rebound allowed,doesn't allow the rear end(housing and tires) to come up. It may be a stiff/rough ride but I don't get hop.
I did a thread about experimenting with relocation brackets quite a few years ago. I'll have to find it and post the link.
I'm running stock OEM torque arm.
That 3 degree angle from your post #1 was measured 'parked'. At the time of acceleration,the rear of the body 'squats' and that changes that angle during acceleration. That 3 degrees(let's refer to it at +3 degrees) changes to 0 degrees(and even to -3 degrees) if acceleration is 'violent' enough.
Relocation brackets(action/reaction) are designed to push the body upward and due to 'for every action there is an opposite reaction' push the tires into the pavement.
Sometimes I set the shocks to max for both compression and rebound so that any body squat pushes the tires down harder and with no rebound allowed,doesn't allow the rear end(housing and tires) to come up. It may be a stiff/rough ride but I don't get hop.
I did a thread about experimenting with relocation brackets quite a few years ago. I'll have to find it and post the link.
I'm running stock OEM torque arm.
#12
Thank you for all of the information! I will give this a read here shortly! I'll continue to experiment and hopefully get it all squared away. Before the camshaft and Viking coil over install, on factory springs and shocks with all the bolt in suspension components, I never had any hop. Hopefully I can get it figured out before I break something.
#14
It's a tick SNS stage 2. 227/235 .6xx .6xx
yes Viking coil overs on 150lb springs. 12" springs
I'd have to look at the dyno sheet again. It peaked at 377 torque at I believe around 5200-5500. It was a relatively flat torque curve.
yes Viking coil overs on 150lb springs. 12" springs
I'd have to look at the dyno sheet again. It peaked at 377 torque at I believe around 5200-5500. It was a relatively flat torque curve.