Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Hello guys! In the process of removing my rear for a 9”! I went to take this brake lines off and the bottom one is seized and now rounded off! Yes I used the correct wrenches and pb blaster, it will not budge! Any input?

Red_Zone

channel locks?

dremmel the rounded edge down flat on 2 opposing sides to get better grip...

Captain Slow

I had the same problem with that flare nut. This tool made it, it's bitch.

IRWIN Tools VISE-GRIP Locking Wrench with Wire Cutter (4)

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Little too late! Ended up twisting brake line into a pretzel! Yeah, I’m about screwed! This line goes all the way to the front! Fml

Captain Slow

I see this in your future..

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

I sure do too! What type of flare is this? Bubble flare!? And by any chance do you know what size flare nut?

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

I would literally pay someone to make one for me! Haha

Captain Slow

It's a bubble flare. I can't tell you what size it is till I get back home tomorrow. Napa had them in stock. It's easy, though.

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

What did you do for the braided section right before the abs block?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

No need to run a new line all the way to the front. Cut it somewhere where you would have access room to use a flaring/bubble tool(as in above pic) and use a union.
When we(at Tuffy) encounter a 'rounded' tube nut,we cut the line(with good wire cutters) at the tube nut and either force a 6pt socket on it or use an 'extracter' socket. Then use a union to replace only a section of line.
Brake line is 3/16". Metric thread is 10mmx1.0 thread size and is used for bubble flare and double flare. US/SAE thread is 3/8-24 and is used for bubble flare and double flare.
Unions are available for all four situations.
Metric 10mmx1.0 and US/SAE 3/8-24 are visually similar but not interchangeable. I always have a 10mmx1.0 bolt & nut and a 3/8-24 bolt & nut handy to identify which I'm working with.

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Do you guys think this will be okay!? I ran a piece of new brake line using a union but I made the line a little short! Bottom line was supppse to be on the bracket below the other line!

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

NO,the up & down movement of the rear end in normal suspension travel will break the line still in the bracket at its' fitting in the bracket. It's not a lot of movement,but eventually it'll break. Just like taking a piece of metal and bending it back and forth until it breaks. If you're gonna drive it for a while,put a couple of the tie-wraps from that line to the hole in the bracket to limit its' downward movement.

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

First time flaring a brake line! How does it look overall?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

For the first time,nice. Glad I don't have pics from my first time ! Even though that'll work perfectly,could be larger as in post #5,but if it seals,go with it as it won't pull out.

JOHNNY59

iTrader: (398)

Bubble flare should not be used for steel brake line tubing! Use a double flare and the correct union.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

^^^ ??? Our cars(my 98Z) came with steel brake line with bubble flare.
The OEM line from Master to ABS block is steel with bubble flare w/M10x1.0 fitting at the ABS block.
The SLP line-lok kit came with steel lines with bubble flares.

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

He may be talking about using bubble flare with a union! Idk

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Bubble unions are available in both versions,metric M10x1.0 and US/SAE 3/8-24. We use both at Tuffy.

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Well it ain’t perfect but perfect enough for me ‘

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Looks good !!!

What brand tool did you use for bubble flaring ?