Can I run a stock steel DS on my 2000 M6 SS, and if so can I run it on a aftermarket rear end that takes the stock aluminum DS? I searched and could not really find a direct answer to this. I'm sure it's there but I didn't see it. Reason I ask is because I can get one for 20 bucks. If it works, is stronger, and other than a few lbs heavier, is a better upgrade overall than the stock aluminum one, then it might be worthwhile

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-vs-steel.html

 

Thanks for the link, but from the way I'm reading it, it looks to be a roll of the dice. On one hand the stock steel is stronger, but the crtical mass vs vibration seems possibly worse. I guess a better question would be is it better for my particular application vs the stock aluminum. Another thought is what is it that's the weak link on the stock steel. Is it the shaft itself or the yolk. If it's the yolk I would think beefing that up might be worth it then. Never really looked into this before so I really just don't know. I know it's not nearly as good as a aftermarket one, but if it's better than what I have (in my particular application) then it might be worth it for basically nothing. I was considering doing it if and/or when I might score a good deal on a used aftermarket rear end that can use the stock driveshaft

 

I'm running a stock steel shaft in my car. I'm also running a narrowed 8.8 setup with a strange 1350 pinion yoke and adapter u joint. No issues so far. Car has been 11.73 @ 115 6 speed on slicks. A guy I know was also running the stock steel shaft in his LS3 swapped '02 Camaro and was spraying it, low 10s on his setup but he upgraded to a better driveshaft.

 

I think on the AL the weak point is the shaft itself, its .06" thick BTW, and on the steel the weak link is the 3r ujoint. That being said I trust the steel more if i had to choose, but trust neither a lot. Make sense?

 

I ran to 11.1 on the stock aluminum shaft. I have seen them break at around 12.0......but i think that dude was one if those guys that could tear up a rock.

 

Yeah I hear what you guys are saying. It sounds like a mixed bag unfortunately. Maybe beefing up the joint on the steel one would have some benefit, but not sure. For 20 bucks maybe I should scoop it up just in case

 

Also, is the stock steel driveshaft off of a V6 exactly the same as the the stock steel one off of a V8? The guy is saying it's off of a V6

 

Yes, at least the autos will be. V6 got the t5 so does that have the same dimensions as the t56? If its an auto car youre good.

 

Ok the guy said its off a 2000 V6 Firebird with a manual trans. So with that being said, probably a no go then?

 

t5/t56/700r4/4l60e are same length.

As much power as your making with the t56 I would really think about an upgraded shaft even with the stock rear end. Be a shame if the stock driveshaft wiped out the tranny.

 

Ok thank you for the clarafication. Yes I totally agree with what you're saying in general, but I dont want to rule out the possibly of running a stock steel one with a upgraded joint, especially if it's a marked improvement. When the time comes to really launch the absolute hell out of my car I'll definitely go with a good aftermarket one

 

I dont know when your spraying, But I have heard of them coming apart on the 1-2 shift.

On the other hand I use to dump the clutch at 5500 with my old 7.5" and never blew it, even though the internet said it would explode.

I think the steel shaft its self would still be weaker then a good solid spicer 3r joint. 3r isnt much different size wise then a 1350 but im no expert.

 

Precision 234 is a good solid joint for stock shafts.