capelajc

I switched out my body mounted adjustable arm today and reinstalled a stock one. OMG!! Night and day difference! Got rid of 98% of the rattling and clunks! So glad I found your post! Much appreciated!

And just ordered BMR chrome moly non adjustable control arms and relocation brackets. Also opted for the hardware kit and angle finder. Now just have to figure out how to use it.

35thanni

No problem, glad it fixed your issues.

Whats kinda trans and engine mounts are you running btw? Does your shifter kinda “jiggle” now?

Bspeck82

Of course NVH will increase when you add suspension components made for racing...my TA is adjustable and sometimes clunks once just before I come to a stop. I've tightened everything and it still does it. I'm Trying to fit a big 9" rear and a big tubular TA in a space designed for smaller components, I don't expect it to be quiet.

capelajc

When I had the motor work done, trans rebuilt and torque converter installed they initially installed solid motor mounts and poly trans mount. But I had them switch out motor mounts for poly when I had my TC reflashed. I don't believe my shifter jiggles but I will pay closer attention once it stops raining.

I guess it should be made clear when buying them that there "could " be added NVH. Especially when spending over $500 on an upgrade, IMHO anyway. I'm sure they are effective, just overkill for my driving habits and preference.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

Was reading through some of the comments about the heim joints coming loose on aftermarket torque arms & never had that problem. When I had the 10 bolt I had the UMI adjustable tunnel mount arm. Yes it was clunky & also the crossmember hung low so it had terrible ground clearance but nothing ever came loose. When I switched to the MWC 9 inch I went with the long torque arm that mounts to the trans crossmember, not one single issue with this setup. Never ever had anything come loose. The best thing to do is get the torque arm off the trans tailhousing & mounted on the trans crossmember especially with a 6 speed car. Torque arm on the tailhousing allows the shifter to jump on hard acceleration especially with a stock trans mount. I'm still running the stock rubber trans mount I bought the car with 11 yrs ago.

capelajc

To be clear, I never had a problem with mine coming loose, mine is a BMR, only thing I wasn't happy with was clunky joints. When I had my rear end rebuilt and new axle seals installed the shop talked me into it. Too much for my driving preferences.

2slow5.0

I'll second this. I did the MWC long arm that replaces the trans crossmember. The stock 10 bolt is gettin noisy and i swear after the install it seemed the wuiet it some. Maybe having the angle reset helped. Very quiet and no more hop

capelajc

So I installed the control arms , relocation brackets and subframe connectors today. Totally different car! Rock solid and not a squeak or clunk! I honestly think I might have had some bad stock bushings prior because the difference is so drastic. Can't believe I waited this long to do this. Next mod will be new swaybars.

I paid attention and my shifter does not jiggle at all.

35thanni

I want to add for anyone with the same issue..

With the tunnel mount I had the worst gear whine on and off the highway. I thought it was just my 12 bolt (Richmond gears are supposedly a little noisy). I mean it was so noisy I had to wear earphones on 30+ mile cruises to avoid a headache.

All gone.100% quiet with the stock arm. Crazy. Haven’t noticed any traction loss either but I don’t make a ton of power either.

TTur1996

The clunking you guys are hearing is from the torque arm hitting the tunnel because you lowered the car. Every person that has lowered their car that I know has had this same problem with the clunking , not the vibration or whine. Worst part is that they ride like **** too. And the reason there is no more vibration is because the stock torque arm put the driveline back in line. We run the Spohn tunnel pro short arm with a S60 that has Richmond Gears, and its huge compared to the rest out there. No clunks, vibrations, or noise. We also run coil overs. Makes setting things up way easier not to mention a whole lot better. Way more adjust ability to get the car to hook and not wheelie. The wheel hop you mentioned is what will break the trans if not snap axles or drive shafts. At least get the arm off the trans. The vibration you are referring to is what is causing everything to come loose. You all will see. Everyone does eventually.

capelajc

After all the updates I did a couple years ago my car dynoed at 421rwhp and haven't noticed any traction loss. But I know it's only a matter of time before my rear gives way. Waiting on an excuse to update the rear 😀

Z28JLR

Thread revival haha! Question for you:
So do you have a stock torque arm with stock regular mount like how the car is originally from factory?
OR
Do you have a stock torque arm with the relocation cross- member where the stock torque arm is mounted to it?
Thanks!

capelajc

I had an adjustable TA with body mount. I’ve since upgraded to a MWC 9” and their adjustable TA. No issues or noises.