Lowered And hooking hard?
01-10-2020, 02:38 PM
#1
Lowered And hooking hard? How many of you lowered guys are still hooking hard? I'm concerned about instant center under the car and while I have many adjustable components I'm still very new to tuning the suspension to work and that's just me being completely honest. I'm yet to get good shocks for the rear but they're on my list and I'm going to use a good coilover conversion. Whatever MWC recommends... I've pretty much been leaning on those guys to help me pick out what's best for my setup.
While I know there are a ton of very quick lowered F bodies out there could some of you guys shed a bit of light on how you have your suspension set up? When I bought my MWC 9" we decided that it may be best to use the long torque arm under the car because it's 6 speed, right now I'm in the upper bolt of the front mount, I'll have to massage the exhaust a bit to get into the lower setting, rear control arms do angle up towards the body of the car some but I'm on the very bottom setting of the control arm mounts on the rear to get it to do that. I guess since I'm just trying to figure this out I'm concerned with how drastic do some of the angles need to be or am I just worried over nothing? Currently the car is just sitting on it's factory springs in the rear with heater hose mod and probably a whole coil cut out. On a 27" QTP the tire is about dead even with the lip on the quarter panel as far as height just for a mental visual.
While I know there are a ton of very quick lowered F bodies out there could some of you guys shed a bit of light on how you have your suspension set up? When I bought my MWC 9" we decided that it may be best to use the long torque arm under the car because it's 6 speed, right now I'm in the upper bolt of the front mount, I'll have to massage the exhaust a bit to get into the lower setting, rear control arms do angle up towards the body of the car some but I'm on the very bottom setting of the control arm mounts on the rear to get it to do that. I guess since I'm just trying to figure this out I'm concerned with how drastic do some of the angles need to be or am I just worried over nothing? Currently the car is just sitting on it's factory springs in the rear with heater hose mod and probably a whole coil cut out. On a 27" QTP the tire is about dead even with the lip on the quarter panel as far as height just for a mental visual.
01-11-2020, 11:53 AM
#7
No, no, no, no, lol... I'm going in the right direction, lol! The lower control arm is lower on the rearend side than the body side, it angles up towards the body. I'm on the bottom hole of the differential bracket but atleast I do have some angle in the correct direction. I'm just honestly kinda unsure of how drastic an angle I may need because honestly I don't have much more adjustment.
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01-13-2020, 04:47 PM
#9
Lowering the rear LCA will increase anti squat. Raising it will lower anti squat.
lowering the car lowers the front mount close to the ground causing a reduction in AS
what you “need” really depends on the tire your running, the surface, and what the car is telling you it needs. Record the drivers rear of the car at the track and watch what it does. Most your tuning will end up in the adjustable shocks and front travel. Adjustable shocks are basically a must have
lowering the car lowers the front mount close to the ground causing a reduction in AS
what you “need” really depends on the tire your running, the surface, and what the car is telling you it needs. Record the drivers rear of the car at the track and watch what it does. Most your tuning will end up in the adjustable shocks and front travel. Adjustable shocks are basically a must have
01-13-2020, 04:51 PM
#10
A drag radial wants to be planted hard and kept planted. So you want anti squat. You’ll see the rim and the fender well separate on launch as the suspension pushes the tire into the surface.
a bias ply is the opposite. They like to slip. They like wheel speed. They don’t like to “dead hook”. You want a lot less anti squat with bias ply slicks. When you launch the rim and wheel well lip will stay the same distance apart or even squat a little.
and shock settings will be different between the two. Since a car setup for a drag radial wants separation, your rebound will be use to control the planting of the tires (usually a bit lose) and you’ll use compression to keep it planted (tighter). A slick is kind of the opposite of that (sorta).
oh.. and slicks stick better than drag radials on the street.
a bias ply is the opposite. They like to slip. They like wheel speed. They don’t like to “dead hook”. You want a lot less anti squat with bias ply slicks. When you launch the rim and wheel well lip will stay the same distance apart or even squat a little.
and shock settings will be different between the two. Since a car setup for a drag radial wants separation, your rebound will be use to control the planting of the tires (usually a bit lose) and you’ll use compression to keep it planted (tighter). A slick is kind of the opposite of that (sorta).
oh.. and slicks stick better than drag radials on the street.
Last edited by Dragframe; 01-13-2020 at 05:04 PM.
01-14-2020, 03:58 PM
#11
A drag radial wants to be planted hard and kept planted. So you want anti squat. You’ll see the rim and the fender well separate on launch as the suspension pushes the tire into the surface.
a bias ply is the opposite. They like to slip. They like wheel speed. They don’t like to “dead hook”. You want a lot less anti squat with bias ply slicks. When you launch the rim and wheel well lip will stay the same distance apart or even squat a little.
and shock settings will be different between the two. Since a car setup for a drag radial wants separation, your rebound will be use to control the planting of the tires (usually a bit lose) and you’ll use compression to keep it planted (tighter). A slick is kind of the opposite of that (sorta).
oh.. and slicks stick better than drag radials on the street.
a bias ply is the opposite. They like to slip. They like wheel speed. They don’t like to “dead hook”. You want a lot less anti squat with bias ply slicks. When you launch the rim and wheel well lip will stay the same distance apart or even squat a little.
and shock settings will be different between the two. Since a car setup for a drag radial wants separation, your rebound will be use to control the planting of the tires (usually a bit lose) and you’ll use compression to keep it planted (tighter). A slick is kind of the opposite of that (sorta).
oh.. and slicks stick better than drag radials on the street.