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Around 3 years ago I decided to fit a line lock kit. All plumbed in, brakes working fine the balancer valve all set up. I never got around to connecting up the electrical connection until last week, and it dosn't work.
I dont know what Line Lock kit I have, I thought it was SJM but cant be sure. Its a long time ago and dont have the instructions. The reason I'm searching for instructions is that when i flick the switch, I do have 12V at the solonoid, but it isn't locking the brakes. I put the brake pedal down hard, flick the switch release the pedal but I can still push the car.
I do not hear the solonoid click when I flick the switch, should there be a click or even monor vibration felt?
Do I have the brake lines connected correct? There are about 4 holes on the solonoid, I wouldn't have picked two random ones at the time and much have been following some form of insructions for in/out.
The balancer valve has Willwood written on it, but no visible name on the solonoid.
Rear brakes go to the balancer value, The front brakes go to the front top hole of the solonoid where it exits from the left to the t-junction. (I will get new braided brake pipes as looks a bit of mess right now)
Ah, that would explain alot. Thanks ever so much for your reply. So this upper hole is the in, and the 3 lower ones are outs?
If the lower 3 are outs I could use two and do away with the t-peice connection I have.
I'd imagine it should make some noise however I have never directly tested one on a battery and listen for a clicking sound and I've never had a quiet enough vehicle equipped with a line lock to be able to hear for any clicking sounds.
I'm going to be honest with you this is probably the best line lock you can purchase without breaking the bank. The only downfall is you have to split off the out going for the front brakes. https://midwestchassis.com/products/...-line-lock-kit
We have also been offering the Wilwood brake shut off valve that turns the rear brakes off and you use the brake pedal and the front brakes to hold the vehicle in place while doing your burn out giving you a more controlled burn out. Hard to do with a manual transmission though. https://midwestchassis.com/products/...lves-line-lock
Took it off, and tested the coil, 7.8ohmas and draws 1.48A @ 12V, so that part of it seems fine
Took the center rod apart, there is a pin that slides up and down inside here. the spring looked good, but the washer at the end was odly bent like it was crushed while putting it together. Straightened this out and looked at the valve operation. I can confirm that the in hole I had was correct and the outs were correct. Could see how the bypass worked. So all looked good in there. Put it back together, and operated it with a bench power supply. I can see the valve/pin moving in the inlet hole. This didn't happen before.
So put it back on the car, ignirtion and and operating the switch.
I'd imagine it should make some noise however I have never directly tested one on a battery and listen for a clicking sound and I've never had a quiet enough vehicle equipped with a line lock to be able to hear for any clicking sounds.
I'm going to be honest with you this is probably the best line lock you can purchase without breaking the bank. The only downfall is you have to split off the out going for the front brakes. https://midwestchassis.com/products/...-line-lock-kit
We have also been offering the Wilwood brake shut off valve that turns the rear brakes off and you use the brake pedal and the front brakes to hold the vehicle in place while doing your burn out giving you a more controlled burn out. Hard to do with a manual transmission though. https://midwestchassis.com/products/...lves-line-lock
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Line Lock issue 
