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This guy knows his stuff. This is a part 2 of his video on f body torque arm suspension tuning. He also has other videos on DA shock tuning. Worth a look for sure.
This guy knows his stuff. This is a part 2 of his video on f body torque arm suspension tuning. He also has other videos on DA shock tuning. Worth a look for sure.Kevin Wilson TA F body
I've watched a few of his videos. I like that he is in no rush to get through the video, and actually explains what he is saying.
Sadly, my car (rear suspension-wise) was pretty much setup exactly how he says (and completely different also), with no luck whatsoever in the traction department...lol.
A car that runs well into the 9's, and traps 148 mph, shouldn't be sixty footing in the HIGH 1.7's...but it does, lol.
I've watched a few of his videos. I like that he is in no rush to get through the video, and actually explains what he is saying.
Sadly, my car (rear suspension-wise) was pretty much setup exactly how he says (and completely different also), with no luck whatsoever in the traction department...lol.
A car that runs well into the 9's, and traps 148 mph, shouldn't be sixty footing in the HIGH 1.7's...but it does, lol.
It's been in several different configurations, several shock, pinion angle, and LCA settings, even settings rear shocks "backwards" as you did, with no luck...
But...I've never addressed the FRONT suspension (aside from swaybar delete), and will be doing so as soon as I decide on struts (and their availability) for the front. I also have a pair of those Moog CC635 rear springs that were recommended to you in your "T/A separation" thread. They were only 40 bucks, so figured it wouldn't hurt to try them.
I have a radial prep test session I am going to on March 12th, so trying to actually "test" and "tune" that day, which will be much more productive (and FUN) if I am hooking, lol. At 148 mph, I "should" be capable of running 9.20's-9.30's, not 9.60's. I'm literally losing 3-3.5 tenths in the first 60 feet by not using transbrake. It's went 1.42 sixty foot when it had nitrous.
I was thinking about trying to run a local 10.00 Index class, but I'd absolutely need the transbrake with a Pro Tree.
I actually started a thread yesterday afternoon with all the car details, slo-mo and real-time videos, angle measurements, heights, etc...
FWIW, My issues started when I tried 28x9 Hoosier DBR's, instead of my normal 275/60 ET STREET R's. The Mickeys weren't available when I needed tires, so had to try what was available...This year I'll be running M/T Pro Bracket Radials, 28x10.5
It's been in several different configurations, several shock, pinion angle, and LCA settings, even settings rear shocks "backwards" as you did, with no luck...
But...I've never addressed the FRONT suspension (aside from swaybar delete), and will be doing so as soon as I decide on struts (and their availability) for the front. I also have a pair of those Moog CC635 rear springs that were recommended to you in your "T/A separation" thread. They were only 40 bucks, so figured it wouldn't hurt to try them.
I have a radial prep test session I am going to on March 12th, so trying to actually "test" and "tune" that day, which will be much more productive (and FUN) if I am hooking, lol. At 148 mph, I "should" be capable of running 9.20's-9.30's, not 9.60's. I'm literally losing 3-3.5 tenths in the first 60 feet by not using transbrake. It's went 1.42 sixty foot when it had nitrous.
I was thinking about trying to run a local 10.00 Index class, but I'd absolutely need the transbrake with a Pro Tree.
I actually started a thread yesterday afternoon with all the car details, slo-mo and real-time videos, angle measurements, heights, etc...
FWIW, My issues started when I tried 28x9 Hoosier DBR's, instead of my normal 275/60 ET STREET R's. The Mickeys weren't available when I needed tires, so had to try what was available...This year I'll be running M/T Pro Bracket Radials, 28x10.5
So I'm learning that slowing down the reaction of the car is key for me. Make the rears stiff and the front stiff on compression to make the front stay up and medium soft on rebound. This is what is working for me so far. I cut a 7.0 8th mile the other night and a 1.53 60 foot. Little by little it's going down. I was burning out the driver rear after the launch. Likely due to passenger Rear squat, So I purchased a drag bar and will be ditching the bags and see how that works for me.
So I'm learning that slowing down the reaction of the car is key for me. Make the rears stiff and the front stiff on compression to make the front stay up and medium soft on rebound. This is what is working for me so far. I cut a 7.0 8th mile the other night and a 1.53 60 foot. Little by little it's going down. I was burning out the driver rear after the launch. Likely due to passenger Rear squat, So I purchased a drag bar and will be ditching the bags and see how that works for me.
Glad one of us is making progress. Happy for you.
Even with a spool, mine would make a pretty hard right turn (almost like a sideways HOP) on launch, prior to my BMR drag bar install, lol.
Here's 3 shaky in car vids.
1st is nitrous a few years ago
2nd is turbo with too much launch boost, and not enough traction, lol
3rd is 4# with drag bar and new ET Street R's
Do drag radials change anything vs slicks?
AFAIK slicks = squat, and dr's want separation, so in essence i would assume the answer is no, this advice is all good, the setup would only differ
however, i've been wrong before.
Do drag radials change anything vs slicks?
AFAIK slicks = squat, and dr's want separation, so in essence i would assume the answer is no, this advice is all good, the setup would only differ
however, i've been wrong before.
Good question...
The Hoosier DBR and the M/T PBR are both SLICKS, but both are also RADIAL SLICKS, lol.
FWIW, first time to track with new Mickey Thompson 28x10.5 Pro Bracket Radials, Viking Crusader front struts and springs, rear LCA lowered back to bottom hole on my Trick Chassis 9", and 3rd adjustment (baseline, plus 2 changes), got myself a new best ET and sixty foot...
Previous best, footbraking because it wouldn't go down the track off the transbrake, was 9.68@148 (1.78 sixty foot)
New best, with some more shock and tire pressure tuning needed: 9.32@147 (1.37 sixty foot)
DEFINITELY hitting the rear tires now, and DEFINITELY getting rear separation... I do believe I need to seriously slow the front end extension down though...lol. Although it hooked, carried them barely off the ground and set down very easy.
Last pass, I tried raising 2 step up to 3500, but it seemed to blow right past that as I stayed on the TB too long.
It hit 4200 rpm, and 14.5# of boost, LOL. I doubt it will EVER hook at those 2 numbers, being 4100+ pounds...
My son made a video of the day's adventures, with all 4 passes recorded.
01-21-2022, 08:42 PM
Good video on Torque Arm drag Suspension 
