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This isn’t anything for the race car guys to get excited about but I’m hoping that it will make for a decent street cruiser. I currently have blown DeCarbons in the front new KYB Excel G’s in the rear.
I’m going use ‘93-‘97 LT1 front springs with my oem ‘00 rears paired with Koni Str.t’s. My original plan was just get a matching set of KYB fronts because the rears haven’t been too bad. But I saw reviews of them blowing in short order so that’s a no go. Then I thought that I was going to do Bilsteins with my stock springs. But I don’t want to have to disassemble my old front shock assy to get the spring and perch off and Moog perches have been discontinued. I’d rather just assemble than have to do both. Especially if it’s going to be a fight to get the old crap off. I might farm that part of the job out too. So I figured it’d be a little cheaper if they didn’t have to disassemble and assemble. I didn’t try to find an alternate perch brand, I just decided I’d go with the str.t instead since they come with a one. The reason I’m using ‘93-‘97 V8 F bod front springs is because I couldn’t find a pair of ‘98-‘02’s. The LT1 front springs are rated at 310 LB/in vs the 292 for the ‘98-02’s. That’s probably not enough to notice but maybe so. I read one post where someone said they thought the 93-97 springs would lower a 98-02 car a tad. I guess we’ll see what happens.
This isn’t anything for the race car guys to get excited about but I’m hoping that it will make for a decent street cruiser. I currently have blown DeCarbons in the front new KYB Excel G’s in the rear.
I’m going use ‘93-‘97 LT1 front springs with my oem ‘00 rears paired with Koni Str.t’s. My original plan was just get a matching set of KYB fronts because the rears haven’t been too bad. But I saw reviews of them blowing in short order so that’s a no go. Then I thought that I was going to do Bilsteins with my stock springs. But I don’t want to have to disassemble my old front shock assy to get the spring and perch off and Moog perches have been discontinued. I’d rather just assemble than have to do both. Especially if it’s going to be a fight to get the old crap off. I might farm that part of the job out too. So I figured it’d be a little cheaper if they didn’t have to disassemble and assemble. I didn’t try to find an alternate perch brand, I just decided I’d go with the str.t instead since they come with a one. The reason I’m using ‘93-‘97 V8 F bod front springs is because I couldn’t find a pair of ‘98-‘02’s. The LT1 front springs are rated at 310 LB/in vs the 292 for the ‘98-02’s. That’s probably not enough to notice but maybe so. I read one post where someone said they thought the 93-97 springs would lower a 98-02 car a tad. I guess we’ll see what happens.
Let me know how this goes. I need to do mine and I honestly want as good of a ride as possible.
Let me know how this goes. I need to do mine and I honestly want as good of a ride as possible.
Will do. I’ve already replaced the rear control arms & panhard bar. The arms made a noticeable improvement and maybe the stiffer bar has helped some. Hopefully I’ll end up with a decent handling and fair enough riding ride. For a little bit I was contemplating getting a set of lowering springs but I really don’t want it to ride any harder than it already does.
Will do. I’ve already replaced the rear control arms & panhard bar. The arms made a noticeable improvement and maybe the stiffer bar has helped some. Hopefully I’ll end up with a decent handling and fair enough riding ride.
Mine still has the stock panhard. Not sure why that wasn't replaced when they were putting UMI stuff underneath it. What did you replace yours with?
Mine still has the stock panhard. Not sure why that wasn't replaced when they were putting UMI stuff underneath it. What did you replace yours with?
I just used a Founders Perdormance brand non adjustable tubular bar. I didn’t see it on their site when I looked just now though but maybe I missed it. I have their rear control arms too and I like them a lot. For bushings they have a poly ball surrounded by rubber cups. I have an identical style on a Mustang as well but they’re J&M brand. Mine are black.
I just used a Founders Perdormance brand non adjustable tubular bar. I didn’t see it on their site when I looked just now though but maybe I missed it. I have their rear control arms too and I like them a lot. For bushings they have a poly ball surrounded by rubber cups. I have an identical style on a Mustang as well but they’re J&M brand. Mine are black.
I really don't get the point of investing so much in shocks and other components to then goofy around with iron block having, GEN4 Fbody springs, in place of your aluminum block having GEN4 Fbody.?.? Springs are a relatively cheap investment, especially compared to Koni's. Just get some springs from UMI, Strano's, BMR, Eibach, H&R, Vogtland, Hotchkis, etc. Hell this set from American Muscle would likely work fine, and are $150. https://www.americanmuscle.com/touri...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
LT1 springs aren't going to benefit your cars looks or handling over LS1 springs.
I really don't get the point of investing so much in shocks and other components to then goofy around with iron block having, GEN4 Fbody springs, in place of your aluminum block having GEN4 Fbody.?.? Springs are a relatively cheap investment, especially compared to Koni's. Just get some springs from UMI, Strano's, BMR, Eibach, H&R, Vogtland, Hotchkis, etc. Hell this set from American Muscle would likely work fine, and are $150. https://www.americanmuscle.com/touri...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
LT1 springs aren't going to benefit your cars looks or handling over LS1 springs.
Well first and for most I don’t want be one of those guys who gets tired of rough riding springs. The springs that you linked don't even list the spring rates or even an estimated drop. I had a car with Eibach Sportlines once and they were horrible. Crap springs can really make for a bad experience and I’m not wanting to roll the dice on them. The few new OEM replacement springs on the market are all listed for ‘93-‘02 F-bods, V6 & V8’s a like. The spring rates aren’t listed but I imagine they have the V6 specs since there were a bunch more V6’s produced. The reviews also state that they raised the ride height and that I don’t want. I couldn’t find an oem set of ls1 springs so I opted for the ‘93-‘97’s which may or may not be a little shorter than the LS1 springs. It’s ok if they’re not but it would be ok if they are. Awhile back I lowered the rear just a hair by replacing the oem spring isolator with ‘03/‘04 Mustang Cobra isolators. It’s like the “hose mod” only not as low and probably not as harsh riding. The rear does sit a little lower than the front now but you really have to be looking to tell. However the wheel well gap looks better.
As long as the LT1 front shocks don’t end up raising the front end up like a 1950’s era Gasser and the STR.T’s hold up I bet my budget friendly suspension setup will make for a sporty handling street car with a decent ride. When people ask how do so and so’s springs ride and the response is, “it’s firm, but not harsh,” that’s kind of like saying, “it doesn’t hurt too bad” when talking about tattoos. I’ll never push this thing hard enough in a corner to need real “firm,” and and I don’t want any part of “harsh.” If it’s still not sporty enough maybe I’ll look into some sway bars next. I ran it up to 100 mph the other day and have the steering wheel a quick little shimmy to see if I could wag the rear end a little but it held pretty straight, and that’s KYB Excle G’s on the rear. The more ridigid panhard & control arms might have part to do with it.
Oh the point of the LT1 springs- I don’t want to fight rusty parts to get my old springs off and I couldn’t find any OEM LS1 springs. I’ll measure before & after to see where it’s at. Spring isolators. Better than a hose.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; 06-15-2024 at 02:10 PM.
For strut mounts I’m going to use a Gabriel on the driver side that was being obsoleted. It has been reported to fit well. It was $14 and some odd shipped. Markup is crazy huh? They can sell it for $3.46 and still make a profit! I’m going to use a Sachs brand the passenger. I don’t know anything about it but the only other available name brand option left on the market is KYB and they got poor reviews. They were breaking within months of usage. So the Sachs are a dice roll but hopefully it’ll work out.
Do as you will. If you wish to keep the Crown Victoria like ride of a stock GEN4 Fbody then I highly recommend against Koni's.
It sounds like you’ve never ridden in a Crown Vic.😂 I wouldn’t call the ride soft now. It’s plenty firm, just floaty due to the blown fronts. A little.
The Strt’s arrived yesterday. One of them already with paint chips.. I’m thinking about painting them black.
I’m not expecting or wanting a “Crown Vic” ride. A little stiffer will be ok. I just don’t want it to ride like a forklift or a chuckwgaon due to lowering springs. I’ve played that game before and it’s not worth it at all if it’s never going to see a race track. Autocross cars ”race” so slow around the track that I bet it’s hardly worth it for a DD that does weekend events.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; 06-16-2024 at 11:17 AM.
It sounds like you’ve never ridden in a Crown Vic.😂 I wouldn’t call the ride soft now. It’s plenty firm, just floaty due to the blown fronts. A little.
The Strt’s arrived yesterday. One of them already with paint chips.. I’m thinking about painting them black.
I’m not expecting or wanting a “Crown Vic” ride. A little stiffer will be ok. I just don’t want it to ride like a forklift or a chuckwgaon due to lowering springs. I’ve played that game before and it’s not worth it at all if it’s never going to see a race track. Autocross cars ”race” so slow around the track that I bet it’s hardly worth it for a DD that does weekend events.
I've had an 01 CV and a 02 SS. A stock Fbody rides way nicer and floatier than you'd think. It'll definitely soak up big hits better than most other cars that look as hardcore as a Fbody. For example my stock 02 SS rode was way nicer when stock than my 03 Cobras or my 03 Lightnings did, but it was also way floatier with a lot of body lean. Koni SA's took the soft, complaint ride with too much wallow and body roll, and made it ride firm, corner flat, and made you respect road imperfections way more than the stock Delcrappo's did.
Fbodys are a trip when talking stock cars. With as much body roll, lean and bounce as they have, and for as undersprung feeling as they are, they do a very admirable job of holding where you're thinking that there's no way this thing holds while being pushed this hard. I've always said Fbodys handle better than they feel like they do, while Mustangs handle worse than they feel like they do. A SN95 feels like a better handling car than a GEN4 Fbody, but when you push them thru a hard corner you realize that that's not the case, and that both cars offer up handling that's deceiving.
I've had an 01 CV and a 02 SS. A stock Fbody rides way nicer and floatier than you'd think. It'll definitely soak up big hits better than most other cars that look as hardcore as a Fbody. For example my stock 02 SS rode was way nicer when stock than my 03 Cobras or my 03 Lightnings did, but it was also way floatier with a lot of body lean. Koni SA's took the soft, complaint ride with too much wallow and body roll, and made it ride firm, corner flat, and made you respect road imperfections way more than the stock Delcrappo's did.
Fbodys are a trip when talking stock cars. With as much body roll, lean and bounce as they have, and for as undersprung feeling as they are, they do a very admirable job of holding where you're thinking that there's no way this thing holds while being pushed this hard. I've always said Fbodys handle better than they feel like they do, while Mustangs handle worse than they feel like they do. A SN95 feels like a better handling car than a GEN4 Fbody, but when you push them thru a hard corner you realize that that's not the case, and that both cars offer up handling that's deceiving.
What I was getting at as far as the Crown Vic goes is that in its current state with the old worn out front shocks Camaro doesn’t ride near as soft as a Vic and I don’t want to go any stiffer than it is. Mostly due to the rattles to be honest. I didn’t want to amplify them. I have a ‘95 Mustang GT with something close to 300k miles on the body and it has a lot less creaks & rattles than my 33k mile Z28. I think it has to do with the F bod’s T-Tops and hatchback. The Mustang has Ford Performance “B Springs” and I like them a lot. The gave a slight drop (maybe 3/4”) and stiffend things up without beating you to death. If there was a spring option like that available for the Camaro I probably would’ve went that route. Something like the disontuined SLP springs I guess. I don’t want to fear every crease in the pavement.
My mustang also has subframe connectors which I think helped dampen some creaks and rattles. I was thinking about a set for the Camaro too until I read a post where a guy said they made his creaks ans rattles worse.
As far as SN95 vs F Body handling goes I haven’t driven by Camaro all that hard yet since it’s been needing suspension work but it does feel a lot more “neutral” handling than my SN95. The Mustangs LSD kind if pushes the rear end through a corner where the Camaros Torsen feels like an open differential, just kind of gliding along.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; 06-16-2024 at 08:59 PM.
The front LT1 springs that I ordered arrived. They’re dusty but otherwise ok looking. They don’t look like they were on the Titanic at least. I think that I’ll probably clean them up and then paint them with something. I’m thinking maybe rubberized undercoating. I here it works. I forgot to order new spring perch isolators until yesterday and a I think they’re the last piece I need to get this show started. Moog has also discontinued the perch isolators fwiw, and Summit said they had nine Monroe isolators so that’s what I got. Muchos obsoleteos for the 4th Gen Fbody.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; 06-17-2024 at 06:45 PM.
Well I just got back from dropping the car off at a shop so they could assemble and install the front shock & springs. They said it’ll be ready tomorrow.
Looking back I probably should’ve just reused the OEM springs instead of buying a pair of alleged ‘93-‘97 LT1 fronts since I’m farming the job out. But at the time I was thinking about doing the job myself and I figured it’d be easier than having to disassemble and then assemble. Maybe hopefully I saved myself a labor hour since the shop won’t have to disassemble the old ones. Y’all know what I forgot to do? I forgot to measure the wheel well gap before taking it up there to see if the new used shocks either raised or lowered the front after they’re installed. Labor sure is sky high theese days. The labor estimate the guy gave me today to do just the fronts I think is about what I paid 10 or so years ago to have both front and rear springs and shocks replaced on a mustang.
I guess I’m going to do the rears this weekend. I’ll keep y’all posted on how it goes.
Hoping so. Or at least like a 24 year old car without blown front shocks. 😂
Last weekend I sprayed a few coats of clear coat on the shocks since one of them came with chipped paint. I also painted the springs with some primer & some black paint. I’m sure the paint will probably chip but what the heck.
The Str.t fronts are on along with the new used front springs that I purchased on eBay. The springs were listed as OEM ‘93-‘97 V8 F bod springs. The shop gave me my old shock assemblies back and as it turns out my oem springs have the same part number on them as the eBay springs. That’s a good thing I guess. I would’ve bought oem “98-02” springs if I had seen a pair for sale.
I only drove it a few miles and I was on city surface streets in 35-40 mph zones. They were rough ones though and I was glad to have new shocks. On the crappy rough roads the ride quality was decent enough. It’s a little stiff and a little bumpy but it wasn’t bouncy and floaty in the front anymore. I guess it’s about what you’d except from a 24 year old T-Top hatchback car. I’m glad I didn’t go with a set of aftermarket springs though. It’s rough and rattly enough with the OEM’s for me. 😂 So far though I’m pleased with the STR.T fronts, as well as the total budget “suspension package” that I have going on. For a street car doing street car things it does pretty well. It still has the new KYB excel g/GR2 shocks on the rear but I’ll change those out for the str.t’s this weekend sometime. Afterwards I’ll try to give it a good shake down so I can really give a yay or a nay on the “poor man’s suspension package.” If it does well I’ll report the recipe. I guess I’ll list it if it does awful as well as a warning to others. But I don’t think it will though. Old shock assy. Only 33k miles but it set outside prior to me getting it Old spring part #. ‘00 Z28
I’m pretty sure it’s lower on the front passenger side. I thought maybe it looked like it was leaning towards the passenger side when I picked it up but I was like, nah maybe it’s just the uneven parking lot. Just a minute ago I went out to try and take some measurements and I think I’m f’d. Do y’all think I got a bad spring and that’s what’s causing the lean? I don’t suppose install error could cause it? Either way I’m screwed because I brought in parts. I still have the original springs and I don’t recall it leaning with them and the blown shocks.
I think I was holding the tape measure straight and close to the same spots.
06-13-2024, 10:07 PM
Upcoming Spring & Shock Combo ‘00 Z28 
