SilverSmoke

Spent the whole day today working on the car and almost 3/4 the way done. Didn't help I was painting some brackets, but didn't slow me down much.

It all started with the Earl's SS Brake lines. I had 5 lines in the kit, could only find use for 4 of them. Where the hell does the 5th one go (rear center)?? I have TC, so maybe it's not used, this was my assumption, am i correct?

The front lines, two options to mount the bracket to the caliper, one way the SS line loop up pretty high, the second option stretched the line downward. I did it downward as I remember hearing people say its a tight fit, but works. and I could see a possible issue when mounting the tire and rubbing the ss line.

major issues: LG brackets!!!!! What the hell! The brackets did not seat correctly by no means. I was told to use the stock abutment bracket off the WS6 so I did. I ended up grinding the two points on the mounting surface of the abutment bracket just so the darn thing would seat correctly, and the holes would line up so I can attach with bolts. Wasted bout 2hrs trying to figure out if I was nuts or not trying every which way to mount.

Second major Issue as I can see, my drivers side abutment bracket when mounted with the LG bracket, is about 1-2mm away from my new C5 rotor on the outside surface. I switched abutment brackets, but resulted in the same issue. I measure as much as I could the thickness of the brackets, but couldn't really see any difference. My pass side is nicely centered, but the drivers side is very close, kind of uncomfortable, but the rotor seems to spin freely and doesn't touch. What do I do????????

Other big issues, was told to use the anti-rattle springs to hold in teh stock f-body pads. I couldn't get them to work, they stuck to far out and scraped against the rotors. I ended up using the stock f-body antirattle springs and they seem to fit just fine.

Last thing, bleeding the brakes. What a pain in the azz! I got the vacum pump from Sears thinking it would make things easy and quick. Nope. I tried to do the stock rear calipers, but I soon found out that the nipples for bleeding actually let air suck through when I was using the vacuum pump. I couldn't tell if I had air in the system or what? Finally gave up and moved to the front calipers, but I just used a cup and hose and pumped the brakes. Didn't see any air so I capped off the nipples.

Overally, what a nightmare!!!

WIKDSS

i'm sorry you had such a horrible experience..........when i did my conversions, it only took about 4 hours total, including converting the rears calipers too! I used another type of adapter bracket from another person to accommodate the larger z06 calipers and rotors. it went together with such easy, i was overly impressed. i had to cut off a nub on the steering knuckle, but, that wasn't even a hassle........cut, paint, and add the new stuff. I also used the corvette brake lines instead of Earl's. Everything works fine and i'm so glad I did the upgrade, not to mention the look factor.

Xsta Z 28

iTrader: (2)

Me too!

Sorry to hear about your difficulties . . .

98_1LE

iTrader: (17)

Wow, that is nuts. My LG brackets fit perfectly.

SilverSmoke

well I spoke to Lou today at LG, wanted me to take a few pics, so I did and sent them to his email directly to review. I tried to call him a few times, but didn't return my phone calls. Was getting a little upset today since I have my car up on jackstands, and we have that tropical storm blowing over NJ soon. Don't want to leave the car up in the air for the wind to catch below it and blow it off the stands. Was my day off today and was hoping he'd call me back with a solution so we can get it fixed quickly, so much for that idea.

Now I have to wait till Saturday to do anything. I just wanna relax and not worry about or do anything for one weekend

End of story, took car off jackstands, bolted up the wheels, took for a short test drive, and I hear a squeek every time I take a turn...............

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

It sounds like you had to remove casting flash off of the abutment bracket.
How is that LG's fault?



It's a GM casting ... not a part supplied by LGM.

Sometimes when you build a hybrid, **** happens.

By what I've read so far, if faced with a Prospeed kit install, you would go into cardiac arrest ...

How hard does the wind blow in Jersey? If it's enough to blow a car off of jackstands, I bet it's hell on houses ...

SilverSmoke

No, don't get me wrong or anything, already grinded off the flashing and such to seat the brackets correctly, flat, and bolt holes lining up, even Lou said that would have to be done when I called him, wasn't expecting it, and didn't see any posts on any site addressing it, so caught me by surprise which was why I thought I was nuts.

I try not to do anything major on my car, just simple diy stuff with limited tools. No room for play, and lucky I can actually jack my car up to get stands below them on a slight hill, which is why I don't wanna take any chances

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Casting flash is a common occurance and therefore not given much merit ... at least to me, anyway.

So what issues do you currently have that keeps you from driving your car? A squeak?

When I had this kit on my car and bought a set of rotors (can't recall who, now), they were quite a bit thicker than other rotors I had used before.

I had to take a small amount of the abutment bracket and insert off to clear the rotor. Again, you are creating a hybrid car and some "fabrication" might be needed.

Just look for where the rotor is hitting the bracket and take a small amount off ... probably casting flash, somehwere.

SilverSmoke

Okay, maybe I can try and create a picture of what I'm concerned with. Drivers side abutment bracket. The top half of the bracket, the rotor is fairly centered inside, ie, look directly down parallel with the rotor, and you see it is centered within the opening of the abutment bracket which accomodates the new rotor. Now looking and comparing to the bottom portion of the abutment bracket, the rotor is not centered, there is approximately about 1-1.5mm clearance btw the rotor surface and the outter (still on inside) lower portion of the bracket. Basically meaning the bracket is cocked to one side.

Now process of elimination of course is to try the other abutment bracket to see if I had one that was perhaps bad. Same result, approx 1-1.5mm clearance btw bottom of bracket and new rotor. The pass side is fairly centered, still skewed a little, but nothing to the degree of the drivers side.

Hopefully I made sense. Now when turning on a roll, I now hear a squeeking noise, like metal on metal which I am concerned may be the abutment bracket hitting the rotor.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

We've got the leftovers from Hurricane Francis on us today, it's pretty windy up here.

Ordinarily the only blowing happening in New Jersey is in the Governor's office...