Need rotors that resist warping
#41
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
absolut_speed, you don't have to get all pissed off. As you can see, milehighassassin is new to the forums. I assume he hasn't read much about this topic at all.
These forums are all about helping each other.
These forums are all about helping each other.
#42
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
About the mold question, I wonder if they use those sand type molds like are used in engine blocks. Maybe that is why they haven't been seen.
#43
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I work on porsches and even the guys that track cars dont warp rotors I think we may do 2 sets a year at the most mostly on cars that sit alot. (for warpage) we replace em for wear a lil more often. IF you want to go all out get a set of the pccb ceramics they are noisey and destory pads and waer out quick as hell at 2k a pop but i promiose they STOP and you cant warp em.
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I realize the performance gains would not be that great but aren't eradispeeds garanteed agains warping?? Lifetime I think plus they may be lighter than normal rotors.
#45
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Originally Posted by Mike K.
I realize the performance gains would not be that great but aren't eradispeeds garanteed agains warping?? Lifetime I think plus they may be lighter than normal rotors.
#46
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FYI:
You could also try a Cryo treated brake rotor. I saw them for sale at the Tire Rack website. Both the Frozen Rotor brand (cryo treated blank rotor) and a Power Slot cryo-treated rotors were listed for most of the GM/Chevrolet cars.
No personal experience with Cryo treatment yet, but I'll probably give them a shot when I do my next brake job.
GW
2001 Z06
You could also try a Cryo treated brake rotor. I saw them for sale at the Tire Rack website. Both the Frozen Rotor brand (cryo treated blank rotor) and a Power Slot cryo-treated rotors were listed for most of the GM/Chevrolet cars.
No personal experience with Cryo treatment yet, but I'll probably give them a shot when I do my next brake job.
GW
2001 Z06
#47
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Cryo treatment does help with compaction of the Iron molecules, however, cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors will still crack, enough to the point that the rotor will weaken itself eventually.
Oh yes, not to forget about another source with similar consensus to our RR experienced racers on this board.
http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=98
Oh yes, not to forget about another source with similar consensus to our RR experienced racers on this board.
http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=98
#48
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Originally Posted by Foxxton
Cryo treatment does help with compaction of the Iron molecules, however, cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors will still crack, enough to the point that the rotor will weaken itself eventually.
Oh yes, not to forget about another source with similar consensus to our RR experienced racers on this board.
http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=98
Oh yes, not to forget about another source with similar consensus to our RR experienced racers on this board.
http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=98
He did a great job. His only mistake is showing slotted rotors that are not properly slotted. You do not want rotors that have the slots running clear off of the outside edge of the rotor. This will cause a stress riser (concentration of stress) which will lead to cracking. You want slots that are "ball milled" (and therefore round in cross section) and you don't want them to run off of the disk. Leaving the radius (from the ball mill) at the end of the rotors edge without cutting through it will help the stress equalize and be more resistant to cracking (not that they can't crack, just that they are less likely to do so or they will be harder to crack, however you want to consider it).
My only "gripe".
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Originally Posted by trackbird
He did a great job. His only mistake is showing slotted rotors that are not properly slotted. You do not want rotors that have the slots running clear off of the outside edge of the rotor. This will cause a stress riser (concentration of stress) which will lead to cracking. You want slots that are "ball milled" (and therefore round in cross section) and you don't want them to run off of the disk. Leaving the radius (from the ball mill) at the end of the rotors edge without cutting through it will help the stress equalize and be more resistant to cracking (not that they can't crack, just that they are less likely to do so or they will be harder to crack, however you want to consider it).
My only "gripe".
My only "gripe".
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that. I agree with you trackbird.
Not to add more to this, but I feel the only technology that might be worth spending on to resist warping is a floating rotor design, and that really doesn't become necessary until you reach a much higher temperature like in RR applications (800-1000 degrees F).
I know someone will argue Eradispeed, however a reminder with the previous statement, and all other statements from trackbird, mitchntx, absolut_speed, and the other experienced members here in regard to brake physics is enough to just stay with OEM style replacements, or a decent big brake kit.
Last edited by Foxxton; 07-02-2005 at 12:24 PM.
#50
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http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...ke_install.htm
That is a porsche kit we installed with floating rotors (which are quite expensive, but fantastic as well)on a friends car.
The rotor has "T" shaped spacers on the rear and you can see the gap if you look close, that's where the rotor can move and adjust for any small alignment problems. (notice, this nearly $1,000 set of rotors and hats are not drilled or slotted.....)
That is a porsche kit we installed with floating rotors (which are quite expensive, but fantastic as well)on a friends car.
The rotor has "T" shaped spacers on the rear and you can see the gap if you look close, that's where the rotor can move and adjust for any small alignment problems. (notice, this nearly $1,000 set of rotors and hats are not drilled or slotted.....)
#51
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Hey Kevin, just a side question. Does that Porsche rotor have a taller hat in order to move it more inboard so that the 4 piston calipers will clear the rim?
To get back on topic, If you want something less likely to warp, get blanks. Autozone Duralasts or Brembo OEM's.
To get back on topic, If you want something less likely to warp, get blanks. Autozone Duralasts or Brembo OEM's.
#52
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I know trackbird should answer this, however here is a previous thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...light=stoptech
If you are running a 17" OEM Wheel, then you might need a spacer. It's all down to spoke design, and not necessarily wheel offset.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...light=stoptech
If you are running a 17" OEM Wheel, then you might need a spacer. It's all down to spoke design, and not necessarily wheel offset.
#54
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Originally Posted by trackbird
Since we've beat this thing to death several times, I'll give you a few things to read (if you'd like).
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...racked+porsche
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...racked+porsche
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...racked+porsche
Even "Mugzi performance" never came back to defend his product???? Hmm, I wonder why that is......
Have fun!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...racked+porsche
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...racked+porsche
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...racked+porsche
Even "Mugzi performance" never came back to defend his product???? Hmm, I wonder why that is......
Have fun!
#55
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Autozone rotors are good. Then you need to learn how to brake. I have never warped a f-body rotor but I have cracked /broke 3 sets. Stop like you mean it, use quick firm pettle pressure and hual that biatch down from speed. I have stopped from around 150ish to 60-80 lots with no warpage or fade. I also use Performance Friction Brake Pads!!!! a must. Do not ***** foot with the brake pedal all you do is put heat in the rotor/pad and then fade and warpage occurs.