Ive warped my front rotors, and know i will again even if i get them fixed. I am wondering which rotors would be good to replace them without going for a full system. I would like drilled and slotted, but which brand?

 

it helps is you pump your brakes onhigh speed stops also if they feel warped try going to like 60 and then slamming them really har like 2 or 3 times a gooddeal of times its actually deposits that build up of the contact path becomes kinda glazed over anf you can fix it by this method which is vaguely stated in your gm manual, hell i know since i started doing this its fixed all of my "warping probs" thogu im still gonna get new rotora and pads eventually just for less brake fade

 

Drilled and slotted do nothing for performance. If you want them because they are pretty, that's your call. If you are buying them as an upgrade....don't bother.

Brembo OEM's have worked well for me. I trash (my pads "eat them", the pads wear out the rotors) them with race compound pads, and they never warp. So, I know they will take abuse.

However, make sure you cool your brakes for a mile or so before parking the car. Don't go sliding into a parking lot at 90 mph and slide to a stop and park the car. The section of rotor under the caliper will not cool properly and this can lead to rotor problems.

 

sounds good, and from what i understand, the slots allow the pads to grip better, and the drilling allows better cooling.

 

Nope.

I'm too lazy to type it all out, start here:

http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...led_rotors.htm

 

are you kidding the slots do help braking....run/brush your right hand/finger against your left palm....its smoothe....just smoothe friction...no brush your right hand/finger against your left fingers (straighten your hand and run it accross all 4 fingers (palm up for both)) youll feel it seem bumpy....

this causes more friction....and yes although all stock rotors are vented...and run fairly cool....the drilled wholes allow slightyl better cooling....not much

the only problem with slotted is if they dont wear evenly so they must be checked frequently

 

also slotted n drilled have less surface area but hell they look good and most report some gains form em so for like 300 bux ill go some generic slotted drilled rotors and pads form that one guy whos sellen em in the gp section

 

To minimize the chances of rotor warping it's very important to tighten up the wheel nuts in a star pattern. The rotors are pressed against the hub by the same nuts that hold the wheel -- even a slightly uneven tightness of the nuts will "help" your rotor warp in a short amount of time. 100lb on each lug, 25lb increase in a star pattern.

 

No, I'm not kidding. Believe what you want, but Wilwood says they are for less weight as do most "real" brake companies (brembo, stoptech, etc). You guys need to quit reading the ads.

Your test is not very applicable to 3500 lbs and hundreds to thousands of lbs of brake pressure. In theory, the pads should not deform, so they'd not catch the holes. They do catch slightly, but it's not enough to do much. Remember, where there are slots/holes, there is no friction being produced. So, that slot has to make up for the grip that was provided by the whole "missing" section.

I generally don't argue this anymore. Buy what you want, have fun. I have given up on spreading the truth.

Maybe I will soon be able to order a disk made out of fingers.....

 

the slots are supose to allow pad material to exit the contact path easier thus allowing for more friction.. but all in all this is gonna be a moot point theres pros and cons to both designs and thus far it seems nobody is consistent on their answers all i know is drilled slotted blanks for cheep are a good deal, look good, hold up better than stock, and may perform somewhat bettter under certain conditions but defnately not worse...

 

You don't know that. They may be close, probably never better, possibly not much worse. But, solid rotors rarely crack. And, some of the cheap cross drilled ones do warp (there are threads around here, even a few sets of the revered Eradispeeds have warped).

But they look cool. Buy what makes you happy. I buy stuff for performance and have little interest in stuff that is pretty. So, if you like pretty, go for it, if you need stuff that works, I can help you out.

 

Since we've beat this thing to death several times, I'll give you a few things to read (if you'd like).

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...racked+porsche

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...racked+porsche

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...racked+porsche

Even "Mugzi performance" never came back to defend his product???? Hmm, I wonder why that is......

Have fun!

 

i have been using power slot rotors for 2 years now and i have no complaints they havnt warped at all. unlike the factory crap that didnt last me 6 months. the power slots are resonably priced and i am happy with them

 

I, too, warped my stock front rotors. I replaced them with KVR cross-drilled rotors and KVR carbon metallic pads 2 years ago (40,000 miles) and have not been able to warp them again. These are an excellent economical alternative to stock replacement. The place I purchased them from back then still has a great deal on the whole set. See link below.

http://www.fasttoys.net/9398fbodypackages.html

You can also see what they look like on my TA after many miles of use:
http://www.mevin327.com/kvr_brakes.htm

Side notes: whatever may be claimed, these have NOT noticeably helped in stopping the car better (wet or dry). They have not cracked at all either, though, like I've read some cross drilled rotors sometimes do. I'm satsified with them overall by far.

-kevin

 

brembo OEM's? Can you explainn a little more please. Like where to get them, and is this what factory uses? Hi BTW, I just got my SLP SFC's in today!!!(will someone please answer my questions....thread). Thanks.

 

Brembo "OEM" (Original Equipment Manufacturer "style") rotors. Meaning, "blanks". They look just like your stock rotors, but they work and don't warp. Go to www.tirerack.com (sponsor) and search for brakes for your car, or call Sam at www.stranoparts.com, he can fix you up as well. Tell them you want "stock replacement Brembo rotors". The factory uses junk, these are what they should have used (Ford used these on some of the Mustangs, Cobras I believe, as original equipment as have others).

Have fun!

 

Great, Thanks.

 

As per trackbird's and mitchntx's advice...
I am running Brembo OEM blanks and Hawk HPS pads.

I've only had them on for a day now, but they seem better that what I had. The hardest part is removing the rotors. I couldn't get them off, so I took it to the dealership and they did the installation for me. I got back the old parts and it looks like they had to be quite savage to get them off. The front rotors have some small cracks and dents, but the rears have a couple chunks missing. I don't have a lift so I couldn't get all that much leverage from lying on my back on the ground. I was also using a rubber mallet because I didnt want to damage the rotor surface in case I couldnt get them off and had to go to a shop (I also drive on the highway 45min each way to and from work and the dealership is near where I work plus I was doing this Sunday morning and had to go to work Monday). I was also short on time, so after an hour whacking at the rotor and spraying WD-40, I cleaned up the rotor with brake cleaner, put everything back, and dicided to let the dealer install the rotors and pads.

Maybe I should post pics so you guys can see how rusted they are.

Just so you know what I used to have...
* 36,7000mi
* original rotors front and rear
* Satisfied Metalazer Pro Ceramic front pads
* Satisfied Metalazer Pro Carbon Metallic rear pads
* car is driven all year round, even in snow


I bought the Brembo OEM blanks and Hawk HPS pads from TireRack for about $375 shipped. It was only $60 ($40 of it is shipping) more than AutoZone rotors and another set of Satisfied pads.

Thanks trackbird and mitchntx.

 

I tried a rubber mallet. About beat it "stupid" and had no luck. Grabbed a 3 lb "mini-sledge" and the rear was off in one whack.

 

I do have a 3lb mini-sledge, but I didnt want to break a rotor and still not get it off. Then I wouldnt be able to drive it. So I just figured that I'd let the dealership deal with it. I figured that they'd probably give me a loner if it took more time. It wasnt cheap though...4 hours labor at $84 per hour = $336, but its still not as expensive as I was thinking they may charge. I like my dealership: Long Automotive Group on rt9 in Framingham, MA. I dropped the car off and they drove me to work. They also came and picked me up when it was done.