Disturbed1

iTrader: (2)

if you hit the rotor at the base (where the studs are) and don't the studs at all the rotor will pop right off. An even easier way is if you have an air hammer, they will come off in a matter of seconds. just for future reference, most rotors will pop off before they break. I work in a shop and have never had a rotor break on me when i hit it with a sledge, i usually use a 5 pound sledge or an air hammer to get them off and i have had some rotors that were on a car for years while it sat in a field, the rotor was solid rust and all it took was a couple swings with the sledge to get it off. So next time don't be afriad to hit it and save yourself some money. I'm sure you probably know this but even though the dealership charges you for 4 hours of labor, most mechanics can do it in under an hour. It's called flat rate, that's how they make all thier money. You save yourself a ton of money when you can do the work yourself.

VIP1

I do the work myself whenever I can. I was running outta time and wasn't making any progress. I'll see if I can take some pics so you can see the rotors. There are inch long chunks missing from the rears and they are heavily dented from hammer blows.

VIP1

Here are the pics.
Front:
http://users.rcn.com/my57chevy/CarPi...iskOutside.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/my57chevy/CarPi...DiskInside.jpg

Rear:
http://users.rcn.com/my57chevy/CarPi...iskOutside.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/my57chevy/CarPi...DiskInside.jpg

Sorry if this is a hijack. I just want to let you know that replacing the disks on this car is by far the hardest I have had to do on any car I have worked on... 1975 Malibu, 1998 Dodge Van, 1990 Lumina, 1983 Chevy Van, 2001 Pontiac Firebird (I have worked on a couple others, but I didn't replace disks on them)... well thats all I can think of now.

BTW...
Trackbird and Mitchntx really know their stuff when it comes to brakes. If you haven't yet, read trackbird's write-up about slotted/drilled disks. If you want more info on the subject, I'll see what I can dig up. I read about the subject extensively before I dicided not to get slotted/drilled rotors.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

VIP1, I noticed from your pics you seemed to only hit the rotors in one area. You need to alternate hitting it on the top then on the bottom. This is very important.

VIP1

Did you read all the posts? I didn't do it, the dealership did. In my attempt (before sending it to the dealership), I was alternating.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I read ALL the posts plus all the threads referenced in this thread. I'm not sure why you would ask that.
Anyway, since I didn't see any marks on one whole half of the rotor and you said you tried to hammer it off, it seemed you might have only have been hitting one area instead of alternating. If you WERE just hitting one area, then maybe my info could help the next time and save you some money. Oh well, no big deal.
How do you like the HPS pads? Have you bedded them in yet?

VIP1

Answer:

It was a long post, maybe you missed it. I also only tried the front passenger rotor.

The HPS pads are good so far. There does seem to be an increase in braking ability. I tried bedding them but I ran outta room. It was a good stretch of road, but someone got behind me. I got it mostly done though and they definately feel better than when they were first installed.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I read TOO much stuff. I didn't think about the rubber mallet. So the dealership beat all those marks on it, huh.

VIP1

Yeah, the dealership made all those marks.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Bastards.

milehighassassin

I am trying to do some research on this for my old man. He has a 2001 Corvette Convertable. He has warped rotor. I was trying to do some research on what would be a good replacement/upgrade. Has anyone done a ZO6 upgrade to a regular Corvette?

I was also under the impression that what slotted does, is cut off fresh brake pad to prevent glazing.

I was also under the impression that crossdrilled are for a couple of reasons. One to help brake gasses escape, and to help the rotors cool. Cooler rotors mean shorter stopping distances. Although there is a lot of junk on the market, but true drilled rotor are made drilled. They are not drilled afterwards which creates stress. If you look at Porsche Brakes, many of them are "drilled".
Just my 2 cents.

pimpmaro

I hate to say it, but cross drilled and slotted rotors are really not going to help at all with a modern brake system.

I give you, exhibit A:
http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...led_rotors.htm

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Here's my personal opinion.

I think that all you guys need to go buy slotted, drilled rotors - preferrably, like this:

Then, come on out and run against me on the track. I'll be running plain old blanks, so "take it easy on me".

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Milehighassassin, a slotted/drilled rotor may help, it's hard to say. The one thing for sure is that they add weaknesses to the rotor. If your dad got the rotors hot enough to warp them, then there is a good chance he might get them hot enough to crack the weaker x-drilled/slotted type rotor as well.

I ended up wasting my money of a set of x-drilled/slotted rotors, because I cracked the fronts on my daily driver. That sucks. I'm sticking to blanks from now on.

I'm not positive about the vette brakes. but I'm pretty sure the Z06 brakes are exactly the same as the regular vette brakes except for a slightly more aggressive pad, red colored calipers instead of gray and rear cooling ducts. I think both models have front cooling ducts, but I can't say for sure. If your dad doesn't have the front ducts, think about adding them.

If you want a big step up in braking performance, you'll need to get some aggresive pads and that has the side effect of dusty rims. If dusty rims or having to clean them more often is not a big deal, then look into some Carbotech Panther Plus pads. They will blow away the stock pads and make them feel like a bad dream. They also tend to squeek, but not loudly and usually will stay quiet for a while if you put some heat in them. The noise and dust had me very apprehensive about getting them at first, but the tradeoff is totally worth it. High speed driving is so much more safer now and the whole cars feels safer.

absolut_speed

iTrader: (1)

I don't get it, it's like people don't read before they post. How many times does one myth have to be disspelled? Unbelievable.

VIP1

Here is the infamous thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/262940-replacing-rotors-what-get.html
(Just dont do what absolut_speed said, he was joking.)

Check out this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/325290-dimpled-vs-cross-drilled-rotors.html
I provide links to pages where some major brake rotor manufacturers admit that cross-drilling and slotting on modern braking systems is mostly just for appearance (this excludes racing carbon/ceramic disc setups).

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

absolut_speed, you don't have to get all pissed off. As you can see, milehighassassin is new to the forums. I assume he hasn't read much about this topic at all.

These forums are all about helping each other.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

We tried to prove this on another forum. There was even a reward offered for pictures of the molds, or any proof (conclusive proof) of "cast holes" existance. We could find none. This was on a forum full of racers (road racers) who own and race everything from Pintos to Ferraris (and we, as a group, use lots of brake rotors). We found pictures of molds (with no provisions to mold holes) and cores and everything, but no sign of holes being cast. It appears to be a myth, possibly started by the marketing department of a major manufacturer and could not be conclusively proven to be true. However, if someone can find me pics of the molds, send them along or post them.

sb427f-car

Perhaps this is a question that should be posted to a decent technical magazine and see if they can use some of their clout to really give a true answer. Just a thought, but I'm sold on blanks or solid rotors (at the very worst slots, but no really).

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

About the mold question, I wonder if they use those sand type molds like are used in engine blocks. Maybe that is why they haven't been seen.