Gauge

iTrader: (3)

I've had my car for about 3 weeks now, and the rotors are obviously warped. I'm looking to replace them with some slotted and cross-drilled rotors so they don't warp again too easily. I'm not really interested in an upgrade in size, just something that won't overheat too much.

I've been seeing these rotors that are stock size and slotted/x-drilled on ebay. They don't have any brand name or anything, but they are brand new and the feedback on the seller is good. I figure they're just pieces of metal and they can't be all that bad even if they are "Brand-X." What do you guys think?

Also, I'm going to be changing out the pads. Should I just get the stock pads or is it worthwhile to go with these high-grade ceramics that I'm seeing?

VIP1

Here are just a few threads on the subject:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/228985-brake-pads-rotors-you-been-through.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=warp
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/185268-power-stop-rotors.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=slotted
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

i am running WDP's rotors, and so far they've worked great

absolut_speed

iTrader: (1)

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I posted several comments and deleted each one ... VIP1 about covered it ...

Racehead

What were they ? lol !

absolut_speed

iTrader: (1)

Here's what to do.

1) Go to Farm & Fleet, Fleet Farm, Wal*Mart, wherever. Buy 4 replacement disks. $120 Don't bother getting zinc coated, I'll address this later.

2) Take a corded drill, unless you have a really good cordless like Black & Decker or Craftsman 12v and put in a 1/8" metal drill bit. Drill holes in the surface, but no more than 23 to preserve strength. Don't hit the vanes. Like any other drill project, draw out your design first. $0

3) Buy some sandpaper, preferably for a palm sander, but a sanding block works pretty well too, in 40, 100, and 400 grit. Start with the 40 and work to the 400 making sure you get the holes flush so the pads don't grab. You can also finish it up by using some steel wool. $5

4) Optional: Use a dremel with the ball shaped grinder. Here's where you can really customize. You can make the designs you want. There's no rhyme or reason to the slots you see. They're just there to help heat and gas escape from the pad, and clean the pads, so it's not important to have a design in science as important as it is to at least have them there. You can go curved, multi-curved, or slants. You can then use sanding attachments and/or the polishing kit to fine tune.

5) Now here's why not to get zinc coated... because zinc is cheap and it's certainly not flashy. Any local chromer can do 4 rotors for under $100. Not only do you get the best looking rotors, chrome strengthens the rotor and you can get an extra 10,000 miles out of them, depending on how you drive of course. You can also skip the sanding part if you chrome them as the chromer will finish the surface to prep for chroming

$225 for rotors that look better than the crap out there now, both in design and finish, and they'll last longer than about anything out there.

Best used with ceramic/porcelain pads (available at any parts store autozone, pep boys, o'reilly's, advanced, car quest etc.)

Dest98

I was going through this a couple weeks ago. I wound up getting Brembo blanks & new pads through Tirerack.com for right at $400 shipped. That's more than what I would have spent on some Autozone or ebay rotors but it's money well spent IMO to get what I know is a quality, trouble-free product.

5LiterBeater

Absolute speed you have got to be kidding this guy right?? One, if you are going to get rotors would you trust your stopping power and safety to Walmart brand rotors. (I own stock in Walmart so I like to see people buying stuff from there). Two, never drill a hole into your rotors at home. If you don't chamfer the holes then you will have monster stress fractures popping up left and right. Also if you don't heat treat them properly after the drilling to realign the metalurgical properties of the rotor. Third CHROME???? Are you serious. Yes zinc looks nice, but it wears off over time. I've seen many a rotor wear down to zinc and would you be willing to drive around on something like chrome rotors??? And if it were better don't you think that Porshce, Lamborghini, and Ferrari would be doing it instead of steel cross drilled rotors like they have now?? Just my two cents, but don't listen to absolute, brakes are something that should not be taken lightly since it is your safety. A couple of extra bucks is worth my car not getting f'ed up in a wreck and me not going to a hospital.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

absolut_speed

iTrader: (1)

First, no "e" in absolut. Name comes from the vodka.

2nd, Wal*Mart gets their rotors from the same place Autozone and every other shop does. Wal*Mart doesn't have a rotor manufacturing plant. Just like their Mobil 1 oil is the same as the Mobil 1 you buy at Pep Boys.

3rd, if you're really worried about the rotors metal properties, you don't heat them, heck, they'll do that the first time you hit the brakes. You can spend a few extra bucks and get them cryo treated (deep frozen) locally. Cryo's worth about an additional 50% of rotor life. So if you're willing to front a few bucks for cryo, you'll double your rotor life.

4th, you make my point, zinc wears off. Chrome will last much longer. It dulls a bit, but nothing Mother's chrome polish can't bring back before a car show. And of course Porsche, Ferrari etc don't chrome them, they want you to have to buy uncoated replacements sooner. I'm guessing snotty owners would probably be ticked to find out they might have to polish the chrome now and again, especially since their pads dust more than ours.

Depending on your deductable, my way might still be cheaper.

TightSS

Since this is the first I've heard this, I wonder if it has been done by anyone who could test it? Just a question. Could the pads interact bad with the wrong pads and actually stop worse?? I love the do it yourself attitude, I have the same thought process. But someone made a good point, who wants to learn the hard way?

I am very interested in the outcome of this conversation since I need rotors for my SS immediately.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Because of this thread, I think I've lost IQ points ....

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

SpeedSin

Wow...Thats about all i can say in regards to this thread. Do yourself a favor. Dont be a cheap-***. Go spend the money on some reliable, quality engineered rotors (Brembo slotted shouldnt be more than $200 for the pair) and some nice pads (EBC green-stuff are like $70 for the pair at Pep Boys). Also get some steel-braided lines (get rid of spongy pedal feel).

absolut_speed

iTrader: (1)

So should he get nice pads or EBC Greens?

Nothing wrong being cheap and saving a few bucks. Why buy $60 designer jeans, when $20 Levi's will do.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

Absolut-give it up man, no one is buying into your "shadetree" brake setup. I feel sorry for your firehawk. Actually that's what baffles me. Why would you pay the extra $$$ for the '02 firehawk, when you could just get a '98 TA, and be done with it??!!!

VIP1

Yeah, dont do what Absolut said unless you like not being able to stop and replacing parts sooner than you need to. The chroming process can actually weaken a part and of course changes its heat dissipation properties. That is why suspension parts are not typically chromed, they are pollished stainless steel. Also the glossy chrome finish has a lower coeficient of friction than the dull appearing iron. Which means that stopping distances will be increased! So now you have failure prone parts and worse stopping ability! On top of that, during an emergency situation (or racing event) you may actually put enough heat into the rotors to flake off the chome which would make breaking that much more difficult, not to mention how ugly they will look afterwards (either on the drive home or on the flat-bed to the shop).

The Zinc is supposed to wear off the swept surface of the rotor. It is meant to prevent rust on the rest of the rotor, such as the outer edges and the hat. Its a thin coating that is worn off the swept area of the rotor by the pads.

Secondly, Absolut, I know what you mean about keeping things on the cheap but I would rather spend $400 on brakes than rear-end the guy in front of me. If you want to keep it on the cheap, buy cheap rotors and pads. Just dont weaken them and reduce stopping ability for the sake of "bling".