Replacing rotors... what to get?
#21
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Originally Posted by tim99ws6
Absolut-give it up man, no one is buying into your "shadetree" brake setup. I feel sorry for your firehawk. Actually that's what baffles me. Why would you pay the extra $$$ for the '02 firehawk, when you could just get a '98 TA, and be done with it??!!!
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You'll be entertained to know I sold my 98 T/A for the Hawk.
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Originally Posted by tim99ws6
haha, I bought my WS.6 cause i like having the best quality i can afford. The WS.6 was that for me. Chromed rotors are not......
I followed the bedding instructions on my Autozone ceramic-porcelain pads and didn't notice a difference.
I like the uniqueness of my Firehawk. My rotors are unique too. If no one takes my idea, so be it, more uniqueness for me.
#24
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Originally Posted by absolut_speed
I like how everyone's so quick to dismiss the chrome rotor method without even trying it.
I followed the bedding instructions on my Autozone ceramic-porcelain pads and didn't notice a difference.
I like the uniqueness of my Firehawk. My rotors are unique too. If no one takes my idea, so be it, more uniqueness for me.
I followed the bedding instructions on my Autozone ceramic-porcelain pads and didn't notice a difference.
I like the uniqueness of my Firehawk. My rotors are unique too. If no one takes my idea, so be it, more uniqueness for me.
They're unique cause no one else is willing to shatter a rotor so that they are bling bling.
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So, here are a few responses to the unexpected things going on in this thread:
1) I don't really want to pay for the new brake lines yet. That'll have to be done at a later time/date. I don't notice a "spongy" feeling in the brakes anyway.
2) I've read elsewhere that slotted and x-drilled rotors don't actually improve heat dissipation much and that they decrease braking power (the latter wasn't a big surprise, though).
3) This will be my first brake job. Are there any other things that need to be done that are just part of general maintenance? I'm a severe newbie and have always paid other people to maintain my cars for me. No more. What else needs to be done?
1) I don't really want to pay for the new brake lines yet. That'll have to be done at a later time/date. I don't notice a "spongy" feeling in the brakes anyway.
2) I've read elsewhere that slotted and x-drilled rotors don't actually improve heat dissipation much and that they decrease braking power (the latter wasn't a big surprise, though).
3) This will be my first brake job. Are there any other things that need to be done that are just part of general maintenance? I'm a severe newbie and have always paid other people to maintain my cars for me. No more. What else needs to be done?
#26
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What is so funny about this thread is that Absolut was being sarcastic and you guys fell for it, hook, line and sinker ...
If any of you "experts" would have read ANY of those threads linked very early on, yu would have known immediately that he was yannking your chain.
Now, why did he, TB and I yank your chain? Because
THIS HAS BEEN DISCUSSED OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER ....
But, I will give all of you the short version.
holes and slot = driveway jewelry
gases form = 60s and 70s pad technology
performace increase = aggressive pad compound not by REMOVING rotor mass
performance increase = more swept are not by REMOVING rotor/pad area
If any of you "experts" would have read ANY of those threads linked very early on, yu would have known immediately that he was yannking your chain.
Now, why did he, TB and I yank your chain? Because
THIS HAS BEEN DISCUSSED OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER ....
But, I will give all of you the short version.
holes and slot = driveway jewelry
gases form = 60s and 70s pad technology
performace increase = aggressive pad compound not by REMOVING rotor mass
performance increase = more swept are not by REMOVING rotor/pad area
#27
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Originally Posted by absolut_speed
I followed the bedding instructions on my Autozone ceramic-porcelain pads and didn't notice a difference.
Originally Posted by mitchntx
What is so funny about this thread is that Absolut was being sarcastic and you guys fell for it, hook, line and sinker ...
If any of you "experts" would have read ANY of those threads linked very early on, yu would have known immediately that he was yannking your chain.
If any of you "experts" would have read ANY of those threads linked very early on, yu would have known immediately that he was yannking your chain.
Gauge:
While you are there, make sure that the caliper sliding pins are not frozen in place. They should move freely. In case you are wondering, the sliding pins are what the caliper bolts "bolt" into. They allow the caliper to move in its mount to allow for pad wear (this is a "floating" design). Also inspect the caliper pistons and all rubber boots. The caliper pistons should have smooth sides and the boots should be in good condition (no cracks/tears). A fluid flush would aslo be a good idea (your there already). When installing the wheels, tighten the lugs in a criss-cross "star" pattern to 100 lb/ft torque. Improper lug nut torquing increases the chance of rotor warping.
This might help you out:
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ds_mwarren.htm
Also, the E-brake on LS1 f-bodies uses a brake drum inside the rear rotors. Now is a good time to inspect them. The rotors may also be difficult to remove. Some on here have said that they needed a 3lb mini-sledge to get them off. Here is a thread about that:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
(page 2 has pictures)
Last edited by VIP1; 01-18-2005 at 03:10 PM.
#28
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Originally Posted by VIP1
I dont think he was being sarcastic. Did you see the picture he provided of the chrome rotors? BTW, I don't claim to be an expert (because I am not). You and trackbird know more than I do (and have more experience).
And you can find pictures of ANYTHING on the internet ...
#29
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
You don't know him or know his background.
Originally Posted by mitchntx
And you can find pictures of ANYTHING on the internet ...
This is a dangerous subject to joke about.
If he was being sarcastic, it sounded too real to those who dont know him.
#30
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To answer the ORIGINAL question (that could have been answered by reading ANY of the linked threads):
Do NOT be fooled into thinking slotted or drilled rotors help dissipate heat and reduce warping or cracking.
Read this carefully ...
AT THIS LEVEL, SLOTTED AND DRILLED ROTORS ARE COSMETIC ONLY!
If you want to pay $300 or more for a single alloy rotor AND install pads that generate a TON of heat, then MAYBE, the metallurgy of the expensive rotor is designed to help dissipate heat. But it's the metallurgy, not the holes. The holes fill with brake pad dust almost immediately PREVENTING the ventillation everyone proclaims that it helps.
Brembo OEM blanks have the best reputation that I have seen of late that reduces the risk of warping and cracking.
For street application, GM OEM pads provide good performance and very little dust. A Carbotech Panther or Panther plus or a Hawk Blue or Black will give you better performance. The price you pay for that performance is more dust and more wear on the rotor.
Originally Posted by Gauge
I've had my car for about 3 weeks now, and the rotors are obviously warped. I'm looking to replace them with some slotted and cross-drilled rotors so they don't warp again too easily. I'm not really interested in an upgrade in size, just something that won't overheat too much.
I've been seeing these rotors that are stock size and slotted/x-drilled on ebay. They don't have any brand name or anything, but they are brand new and the feedback on the seller is good. I figure they're just pieces of metal and they can't be all that bad even if they are "Brand-X." What do you guys think?
Also, I'm going to be changing out the pads. Should I just get the stock pads or is it worthwhile to go with these high-grade ceramics that I'm seeing?
I've been seeing these rotors that are stock size and slotted/x-drilled on ebay. They don't have any brand name or anything, but they are brand new and the feedback on the seller is good. I figure they're just pieces of metal and they can't be all that bad even if they are "Brand-X." What do you guys think?
Also, I'm going to be changing out the pads. Should I just get the stock pads or is it worthwhile to go with these high-grade ceramics that I'm seeing?
Read this carefully ...
AT THIS LEVEL, SLOTTED AND DRILLED ROTORS ARE COSMETIC ONLY!
If you want to pay $300 or more for a single alloy rotor AND install pads that generate a TON of heat, then MAYBE, the metallurgy of the expensive rotor is designed to help dissipate heat. But it's the metallurgy, not the holes. The holes fill with brake pad dust almost immediately PREVENTING the ventillation everyone proclaims that it helps.
Brembo OEM blanks have the best reputation that I have seen of late that reduces the risk of warping and cracking.
For street application, GM OEM pads provide good performance and very little dust. A Carbotech Panther or Panther plus or a Hawk Blue or Black will give you better performance. The price you pay for that performance is more dust and more wear on the rotor.
#32
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I recommed the Brembo blanks and any set of ceramic pads for street use. They don't require much break-in, they are quiet, they have low dusting, and they are relatively inexpensive.
You can stop slightly better with a more aggressive pad.
Slotted or drilled or slotted/drilled rotors look nice, but don't offer a measurable performance increase.
Think about what you want out of your brake system....long life, quiet operation, low dusting? Or do you just want to stop as fast as possible and don't care about the drawbacks? There is a WEALTH of info on brake systems on this website...use the search feature. It is quite mindboggling...
Things to consider when you are changing the rotors and pads:
-Make sure you clean the wheel hub with a wire brush before installing the new rotors to eliminate any high spots that may cause the rotor not to run perfectly true.
-Don't hang the calipers by the brake lines...use a piece of a clothes hanger or something similar to tie it up out of the way.
-Use PLENTY of brake parts cleaner...make sure the rotors are completely free of the anti-rust coating, grease, fingerprints, dirt, etc before you install the brake pads...then give everything a good spray when you are finished to get a little spots you missed.
-Check the caliper mounting bracket to make sure the floating pins aren't frozen in place...if they are, you need to correct that before moving forward with the install.
-Make sure none of the piston boots are torn or rotting...if they are, you need to rebuild that caliper...not that hard, but does take a little time.
You can stop slightly better with a more aggressive pad.
Slotted or drilled or slotted/drilled rotors look nice, but don't offer a measurable performance increase.
Think about what you want out of your brake system....long life, quiet operation, low dusting? Or do you just want to stop as fast as possible and don't care about the drawbacks? There is a WEALTH of info on brake systems on this website...use the search feature. It is quite mindboggling...
Things to consider when you are changing the rotors and pads:
-Make sure you clean the wheel hub with a wire brush before installing the new rotors to eliminate any high spots that may cause the rotor not to run perfectly true.
-Don't hang the calipers by the brake lines...use a piece of a clothes hanger or something similar to tie it up out of the way.
-Use PLENTY of brake parts cleaner...make sure the rotors are completely free of the anti-rust coating, grease, fingerprints, dirt, etc before you install the brake pads...then give everything a good spray when you are finished to get a little spots you missed.
-Check the caliper mounting bracket to make sure the floating pins aren't frozen in place...if they are, you need to correct that before moving forward with the install.
-Make sure none of the piston boots are torn or rotting...if they are, you need to rebuild that caliper...not that hard, but does take a little time.
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... I can't begin to tell you how hard it was to stay out of this.
best bang for the buck upgrade - Z06 front brakes on an F-Body
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best bang for the buck upgrade - Z06 front brakes on an F-Body
Last edited by 99HOSS; 01-19-2005 at 01:53 PM.
#36
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Wow, if Absolut is pulling our legs...he could win poker tournaments. That was a pretty impressive LOB..line of bull. I'd like to know from him what was bull. VIP1 is right...too dangerous to joke about, and by the way, thanks for the links earlier. Cause I spent a couple hours reading them. That is how you help, not being a sarcastic, horse's....asssking one more question...
So what about cryo? could it extend the life of a good rotor? Or is that funny just because it sounds wacked? Really, just because you are an expert at one thing doesn't mean that at some point you will need to depend on someone else to be the expert. Does your doctor laugh at you when you go in for a checkup.......or is that just because you dropped your pants.......HA ha..
So what about cryo? could it extend the life of a good rotor? Or is that funny just because it sounds wacked? Really, just because you are an expert at one thing doesn't mean that at some point you will need to depend on someone else to be the expert. Does your doctor laugh at you when you go in for a checkup.......or is that just because you dropped your pants.......HA ha..
#39
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see this I found at CarboTech about Cryo:
The third step is our heat tempering process, which effectively cures the ceramic-based adhesive which was applied in step one (1), and also serves the purpose of out-gassing the pad compound material, thus making slotted and cross-drilled rotors unnecessary. Furthermore, slotted and cross-drilled rotors are more prone than a solid vented rotor to warping and cracking; our CRYO-COOL process, which is a computer-controlled cryogenic metal treatment process, can be used on rotors of any type to increase wear characteristics by at least 100%, and as much as 200%, while also increasing a rotor's resistance to warping and cracking - but this is another FAQ discussion altogether!
(maybe absolut needs to say what was fact/fiction)
The third step is our heat tempering process, which effectively cures the ceramic-based adhesive which was applied in step one (1), and also serves the purpose of out-gassing the pad compound material, thus making slotted and cross-drilled rotors unnecessary. Furthermore, slotted and cross-drilled rotors are more prone than a solid vented rotor to warping and cracking; our CRYO-COOL process, which is a computer-controlled cryogenic metal treatment process, can be used on rotors of any type to increase wear characteristics by at least 100%, and as much as 200%, while also increasing a rotor's resistance to warping and cracking - but this is another FAQ discussion altogether!
(maybe absolut needs to say what was fact/fiction)
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Originally Posted by TightSS
(maybe absolut needs to say what was fact/fiction)
I use Brembo blank rotors, like most of the enlightened, with Hawk HP+ pads (for now anyway) and ATE Super Blue fluid for autocross.
I wouldn't blow smoke if people would just try using the search button. As noted, the topic of drilled/slotted rotors is about beat to death, yet it still rears its ugly head, and people refuse to listen anyway. So as long as people want to buy the trendy thing and ignore the truth, I figure they may just as well save a few bucks and try it my way.
For daily driving, get the Brembos and a new set of stock pads.