absolut_speed

iTrader: (1)

I'm really not pissed off, I'm more in a state of amazement considering people are either not reading what's already written within this very thread or they're choosing to not accept what they don't want to believe.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

This board was full of engineers (some of which work in the automotive field) and we found what look like "chiller" or chilled molds with sand cast cores for the internal cooling veins. These were from Mov-it, who makes what is basically a Porsche based kit for many cars and are known to be excellent rotors. We could find nothing from Porsche and microscopic anaylisis of a used porsche rotor turned up nothing since the rotor had been hot enough to glow red at one time in its life (destroying the evidence). So, it could still be proven, but it does not seem likely. However, I'm all in favor of anyone who wants to give it a try.

ta12sec

iTrader: (3)

I work on porsches and even the guys that track cars dont warp rotors I think we may do 2 sets a year at the most mostly on cars that sit alot. (for warpage) we replace em for wear a lil more often. IF you want to go all out get a set of the pccb ceramics they are noisey and destory pads and waer out quick as hell at 2k a pop but i promiose they STOP and you cant warp em.

Mike K.

I realize the performance gains would not be that great but aren't eradispeeds garanteed agains warping?? Lifetime I think plus they may be lighter than normal rotors.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Last I heard you had to send then in and their tech people have to check them, only if they agree they are warped will they replace them. They reserve the right to refuse replacement, so it's a bit iffy.

m5guy

FYI:

You could also try a Cryo treated brake rotor. I saw them for sale at the Tire Rack website. Both the Frozen Rotor brand (cryo treated blank rotor) and a Power Slot cryo-treated rotors were listed for most of the GM/Chevrolet cars.

No personal experience with Cryo treatment yet, but I'll probably give them a shot when I do my next brake job.

GW
2001 Z06

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Cryo treatment does help with compaction of the Iron molecules, however, cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors will still crack, enough to the point that the rotor will weaken itself eventually.

Oh yes, not to forget about another source with similar consensus to our RR experienced racers on this board.

http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=98

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

He did a great job. His only mistake is showing slotted rotors that are not properly slotted. You do not want rotors that have the slots running clear off of the outside edge of the rotor. This will cause a stress riser (concentration of stress) which will lead to cracking. You want slots that are "ball milled" (and therefore round in cross section) and you don't want them to run off of the disk. Leaving the radius (from the ball mill) at the end of the rotors edge without cutting through it will help the stress equalize and be more resistant to cracking (not that they can't crack, just that they are less likely to do so or they will be harder to crack, however you want to consider it).

My only "gripe".

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that. I agree with you trackbird.

Not to add more to this, but I feel the only technology that might be worth spending on to resist warping is a floating rotor design, and that really doesn't become necessary until you reach a much higher temperature like in RR applications (800-1000 degrees F).

I know someone will argue Eradispeed, however a reminder with the previous statement, and all other statements from trackbird, mitchntx, absolut_speed, and the other experienced members here in regard to brake physics is enough to just stay with OEM style replacements, or a decent big brake kit.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...ke_install.htm

That is a porsche kit we installed with floating rotors (which are quite expensive, but fantastic as well)on a friends car.

The rotor has "T" shaped spacers on the rear and you can see the gap if you look close, that's where the rotor can move and adjust for any small alignment problems. (notice, this nearly $1,000 set of rotors and hats are not drilled or slotted.....)

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Hey Kevin, just a side question. Does that Porsche rotor have a taller hat in order to move it more inboard so that the 4 piston calipers will clear the rim?

To get back on topic, If you want something less likely to warp, get blanks. Autozone Duralasts or Brembo OEM's.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

I know trackbird should answer this, however here is a previous thread:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...light=stoptech

If you are running a 17" OEM Wheel, then you might need a spacer. It's all down to spoke design, and not necessarily wheel offset.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I mentioned I cracked my RotorPros with the heavy bedding session of the Carbotech Panther Pluses. I got 3 cracks in the outer half of each front rotor. Here are the pics.

BitViper

iTrader: (63)

Some things are enternal....

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Autozone rotors are good. Then you need to learn how to brake. I have never warped a f-body rotor but I have cracked /broke 3 sets. Stop like you mean it, use quick firm pettle pressure and hual that biatch down from speed. I have stopped from around 150ish to 60-80 lots with no warpage or fade. I also use Performance Friction Brake Pads!!!! a must. Do not ***** foot with the brake pedal all you do is put heat in the rotor/pad and then fade and warpage occurs.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Well there are 2 rotors from Autozone. The cheaper ones are not that good, but the more expensive Duralasts are the ones to get. I think they are around $40 each.