Need to resurface rotors with new pads?
#1
Staging Lane
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Need to resurface rotors with new pads?
I'm getting new brake pads soon and I want to know if it's necesary to resurface the rotors. It'd be nice just to pop the new pads on, adjust the piston, and go.
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Ideally, you'd probably replace the rotors too, but I've done it a hundred times. As long as your rotors are within lateral runout specs (i.e. no warping) you'll be fine. Break in the pads as recommended and you're good.
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With 43,000 miles on your rotors, you should consider replacing them. They could be turned, but that would make the rotor thinner, and on these cars that generally leads to a warped rotor. I wouldn't consider new pads without at least turning those rotors....otherwise the new pads won't break in properly and braking effectiveness will be reduced.
Warped rotors are not visible, but are easy to diagnose. When you brake , you will feel the brake pedal pulsing and braking will not be smooth...more of an on/off "grabbing" of the brakes. The higher the speed and the harder the braking, the worse it will feel.
You can replace all four rotors for as little as $215 (DuraLast from AutoZone). People on this board say they are a good rotor. You could do a complete rotor and pad swap for $299 shipped from Wholesale Direct and get a slotted & cross drilled rotor...no better for performance, but they look nice and the price is right. Brembo also makes a quality OEM replacement rotor...Tire Rack has those, but they are a little more expensive then the DuraLast and probably aren't noticably better.
If you are looking for a little better performance, you should consider a more aggressive pad, like the Hawk HPS or the Satisfied Gransport 6. They may dust a little more than stock and may make some noise. You could go even further to a Carbotech pad, but they aren't the best for street use as they are noisy, eat rotors, and dust a lot...but the road racers say they grab hard and don't fade.
Warped rotors are not visible, but are easy to diagnose. When you brake , you will feel the brake pedal pulsing and braking will not be smooth...more of an on/off "grabbing" of the brakes. The higher the speed and the harder the braking, the worse it will feel.
You can replace all four rotors for as little as $215 (DuraLast from AutoZone). People on this board say they are a good rotor. You could do a complete rotor and pad swap for $299 shipped from Wholesale Direct and get a slotted & cross drilled rotor...no better for performance, but they look nice and the price is right. Brembo also makes a quality OEM replacement rotor...Tire Rack has those, but they are a little more expensive then the DuraLast and probably aren't noticably better.
If you are looking for a little better performance, you should consider a more aggressive pad, like the Hawk HPS or the Satisfied Gransport 6. They may dust a little more than stock and may make some noise. You could go even further to a Carbotech pad, but they aren't the best for street use as they are noisy, eat rotors, and dust a lot...but the road racers say they grab hard and don't fade.
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#8
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I response to NoBr8kSS...
I am now running:
Brembo OEM blanks front and rear
Hawk HPS pads front and rear
I bought them at TireRack shipped for $374 and change.
It ended up only being $60 more ($40 of which is shipping) than going with Autozone parts.
In response to WhynotSS...
When comparing the cost of turning rotors versus new ones (from AutoZone or others), it isn't that much more for new ones. If the surface of the rotor is smooth and even (no ridges, gouges, etc) and they aren't warped (tested by feel or a runout gauge), then you can get away with just replacing pads. I have done it plenty of times, but the best route it to either get the rotors turned or replace them.
I am now running:
Brembo OEM blanks front and rear
Hawk HPS pads front and rear
I bought them at TireRack shipped for $374 and change.
It ended up only being $60 more ($40 of which is shipping) than going with Autozone parts.
In response to WhynotSS...
When comparing the cost of turning rotors versus new ones (from AutoZone or others), it isn't that much more for new ones. If the surface of the rotor is smooth and even (no ridges, gouges, etc) and they aren't warped (tested by feel or a runout gauge), then you can get away with just replacing pads. I have done it plenty of times, but the best route it to either get the rotors turned or replace them.
#9
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Thanks for all the info. After looking at my options, I decided to go with the kit Thunder Racing puts together with Power Slot rotors, Hawk Pads, and stainless steel lines. It will be coming in the mail with my new clutch, flywheel, and slave cylinder. Looks like I'm gonna have two Christmas holidays this year.