JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I did a little write up on adjusting the Koni's. That should give you a good idea.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=521349

The SA's should be fine for you. I would even go so far to say that for most people with street cars, the Koni SA in the rear my be overkill. I have the SA's in the back and I played with them, but ended up with the same adjustment most folks have. Full soft. Sam tells me the Bilstein 3rd gen rears have almost the same valving and that is why they are so often used. Doing so saves you about $130. But if you are set on the SA in rear, that is fine too. The stiffer spring of the H+R may need a bit more rebound control.
Most of the folks that get the DA seem to end up putting the compression setting (bump) to full soft anyway. Full soft on the DA is the same compression valving as the SA. So you see why most folks don't get the DA. The rebound adjustment is the main one in determining how the car feels (as far as I know, I don't have the DA's). Too much rebound can make it ride rough, too much air pressure in the front tires can make it ride rough. Too low of ride height in the front or rear can make it ride rough. If you adjust everything just right you can get great handling as well as a not too harsh ride. I mean the factory springs and shocks were a bit on the harsh side, so it's about the same. Certainly not a kidney buster like some other lowered cars.

Don't let trackbird scare you about his shock. He's the only person I ever heard of to bust a shock due to using a very different kind of bumpstop. This is what he, as well as I use.

I measured my suspension travel to make sure the shock wouldn't bottom out, but I don't think he did. He races his, too. So that puts extra stress on the parts. The $570 comes from rebuilding and shortening both his DA rear shocks. I would not suggest you run this bumpstop, but instead to trim the factory one some. That is, much later on when everything is installed and if you feel the need for a bit more rear travel.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I've seen people put lowering springs on their F-body along with stock shocks and the car bounces around just like what you were describing. When I drove them, they were just horrible. Very bumpy with no increase in handling, In fact, I would say they handled worse because they seemed more likely to bottom out and break the tires loose on cornering. I don't see how those guys with Sportlines and stock shocks can stand it. I certainly couldn't drive it that way everyday. I just shake my head.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

This is some good info. Thanks guys!

Midnight F-117A

H & R springs? I think you meant H & R Block, time to file your taxes

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Well. I can tell you that the DA's will very likley not work with that bumpstop. Many other shocks work just fine with it, but you can damage DA's with the Koni stop. It is a combination of shock length and bumpstop that work as a "set" and the bumpstop and koni DA's don't mix, there is the potential for damage. Yes, I am the only one to damge a shock that way that I know of, but they still worked somewhat. My guess is, that nobody else who has run that combo (if anyone has) has figured out that they have a dead shock (it was tough to do) or two or they never posted in one of the forums about it. So, I'm not trying to scare anyone, just to advise not to do that with a Koni DA. I tested the idea "thoroughly" and it didn't work (on my car, every one could be different, you never know). It seems to work for Bilstiens and some others, but measure first. As far as measurements, I was going to measure it all out when my local Koni rebuilder suggested that stop (the 55mm tapered/progressive stop) and said it would be fine for me. I took them at their word (they rebuild Koni's for a living, they should know, right?) and I shouldn't have. So, no, I didn't measure, but I did "test". Just be careful doing that with Koni DA's.

Actually, when my rear Koni's were being rebuilt. I put decarbons on the rear. The ride was much worse than my Koni's because decarbons have a ton of compression damping built into them. They are super stiff in compression (way more than needed) and don't have nearly enough rebound (the car is stiff, but "floaty" with them). So, the koni's will help the ride. And, I do use more than a "0" setting on my compression, but many don't.

All I was saying was to measure your clearance. If you run that bump stop with DA's on these cars, you run the very real risk of damaging a shock (yes I do race mine, but a good pothole could do it as well). I can't speak for other shocks, but I can tell you what we found when we measured/worked through the damage to my shocks (it was a 12 page thread or so when it was all overwith).

And, DA's are really not needed on a street car. Just in case anyone was going to ask.

Your results may vary.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Oh, and I don't use that bumpstop anymore. I sold them to a member on this board who does not have Koni DA's and should be just fine with them on his application.