02RedWS6

I am thinking about modding my '02 WS6 and to start out I would like to stiffin it up a little. Is there any difference in the performance of the different types of sub-frames offered for the f-bodys. I need to know the differences between the "triangle" and what appears to be a single bar SFC. Also what is the advantage/disadvantage of weld in SFC's versus bolt in? I thank ya for any advice!

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I am a fan of the SLP style connectors. I like "multiple mounting points" to tie everything together. Or, the LGMotorsports kit with the diagonal braces installed should do a nice job as well.

As far as welding or bolting them in. A weld can't move...it is there and there for good. THe chassis is welded for the same reason, it is "forever". The bolt in connectors work and work well, but you just can't beat a welded set for ultimate stiffness. A weld can't (shouldn't?) come loose or rattle or slide around on the mounting. Now...with that said, porperly installed bolt in connectors (with the bolts installed with loctite) should not move (and most don't), but should not or "can't". I bet on "can't" every time. Just my thoughts....

There are some other threads on this recently, you may want to search for them and take a look....

Good luck!

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

P.S. Any subframe connectors will likely be a great improvement over stock (no connectors)....then we get in to different levels of "overkill" (not that any are truly overkill).

02RedWS6

Thanks for the input. I agree that the SLP SFC's look like they would make a bigger imporvement in chassis stiffness than the other types. How is the ground clearance? Do they hang any lower than, say an SLP Y-Pipe?

P.S. I tried a search and didn't come up with anything that suited me. If this has already been awnsered then just point me to the thread.

DARK AGE 53

The SLP or www.spectaclesolutions.net bolt-on SFC would be a good choice.

Al

RedJuice

Did anyone notice that BMR made a change to their subframe connector design (boxed). It no longer has the flat tabs it now has bent tabs and what not...

SteveC

I am a big fan of the SLP bolt on's, opposed to the weld in's, they will come painted, and you have the option of removing them, or welding them in.

If you are planning to lower your car, please be aware that these SFC hang down 3/4" to 1" from the chassy.

SteveC

02RedWS6

I will keep that in mind even though I doubt I will be lowering it any. Living here in the mountians of NC leaves you very few roads you can travel on in a lowered car.

Thanks guys!
Mic

LG Motorsports

Hi Guys,

We are having a suspension and chassis sale at LG Motorsports. 15% off all chassis and suspension, (excluding coil overs and shocks) just the G2 parts.

Give us a call.

Thanks
Lou Gigliotti
LGM 972-272-7753

ROLSCH

I had Kenny Brown (just west of Indianapolis)install welded SFC's on my '95 Z-28. The ground clearance was excellent and the car was markedly stiffer (I did not have T-tops)I would use them again.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

I've had SLP's on for 4 years now, bolts haven't budged. I'm lowered 1.5", never an issue. Makes jacking up the car a breeze as the whole side goes.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

I have the SLP subframes. They are a bit bulky compared to the tubular versions but they really are nice. I can slap a jack anywhere along the subframe, drag them over speed bumps (done A LOT of time...), and they keep the car really stiff.

I do agree the welding (if your not worried about resell) is the only way to go. I bolted my SLPs on first and drive around for a while. Then I went back and welded them and it really made a difference.

Mike K.

I have the weld in BMR's, I did feel a difference after the install but I also installed alot of other stuff at the same time so its hard to tell exactly how much they helped but my car feels really stiff now with no wheel hop, My favorite advantage as others have touched on is that it makes jacking up the car much easier.

glitch77

SLP's here.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Thoes with the kennybrown DD's how much of the connector can you see from a side view of under the car.

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

If you are going to put a subframe connector on your car, it would definitely benefit you to weld them in. If you're going to go to the expense of getting a set, put them in correctly, weld em' in. Bolts flex and wobble, and it just negates the intended purpose, of what you're trying to accomplish.
I have bought a set of just about every make of subframe, and the majority of them are absolute garbage.Most are made of low grade materials that just were maximizing the profit of the maker, to rush em' to the market, just to have something out there. The last and recent purchase was a set of Kenny Brown double diamonds. These are absolute junk, and will be cut and sold for scrap. I had talked to some engineers for a race team, and they laughed when I showed them the designs that are out there currently. Don't get me wrong they will stiffen up a car, a little, but they aren't the best they could be either. I'm having some made at this moment from titanium, and they are way different looking, with alot less weight. My car will finally get some chassis strength.

Fast Eddie's 02 T/A vert.

KBDD SFCs are junk.So your telling me i just threw away $500.? This is not good news,i thought the KBDD were suppose to be very good.


I'm bummed

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I'm not a big fan of anything Kenny Brown. THe guys at www.corner-carvers.com had their way with the marketing rep from Kenny Brown about many of their designs and they had no "good replies" (such as mounting a panhard rod to the sheetmetal spare tire well on a fox bodied mustang, when do we mount structural stuff to sheet metal?????). But that is just my opinion (and most anyone who ever read that post "kb vs bb" on corner carvers). Just my thoughts....

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

Well, they're higher up at the top of the food chain, design wise, compared to something from BMR. Most of em' don't really triangulate all that well, and some don't do it all. These Kenny Brown's that I'm sitting here looking at, and thinking about using as a trellis for tomato plants in the garden, are brand *** new. They are already having heavy corrosion from a chemical reaction of the welding and the cadmium plating they used, in the weld joints. Big no-no here.

How come yours cost five hundred? Mine cost $267, they're basically about $5 worth of low grade metal boxed tubing, with a hardware store quality cad-plating job. I'm not mad about these, I've bought all kinds of crap for these cars, just to look at the design work, so I can design my own stuff.

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

Any of you racers think there's much of a market for a real race engineered titanium subframe connector, that actually ties the whole car together? If people have an interest in things like that, I can seriously investigate having' em made in series. I won't be pricing em' to the moon, because I don't have to do it for a living. I'd get much more out of it, just knowing that I helped other enthusiasts and road scofflaws. I can get titanium , even aerospace grade, so the pricing would be comparable to what the market is.
I don't need a Rolex watch, and I don't need a 60,000 dollar car. I just want to have fun, and actually make a difference. Everybody wants to be a millionaire off of each sale nowadays, and it's making it so expensive, nobody can learn anything, because they can't afford to do anything.This causes people to burn out, and leave the hobby, with a bitter taste in their mouths.