1ScrudeDude

In order to decrease my wheelhop issues, I installed a pair of BMR Lower Control Arms on my 98 Z28. A few days after the install, I kept hearing a LOUD bang and rattle coming from the right LCA. So I take a look under, and find that the rear nut was backed off all almost the way. I was happy to see that the solution was going to be simple, just torque that puppy up tight and eliminate the slop. The bang-rattle did go away. For a little while.

I made 6 runs at the track tonight, and after each run the sound came back after I made a hard left turn towards the timeslip booth. Not as loud, but loud. I was so freaked, I even thought my posi was going. I later ruled that out.

Before I left the track, I crept under the car again to make sure the nuts were tight. They were as tight as I torqued them. But on the way home, every sudden dip in the road caused this thing to bang-rattle so loud, I really thought of calling for help or a tow. It almost sounds like a broken shock.

Now the right side was tougher to change out than the left. The left side lined up perfect and we slid the bolt through. The right side however took some muscle and leverage to get the holes lined up to push the bolt through. The LCA's are a good fit, but not perfect.

I have no clue what this could be. Now we didn't have a grease gun handy, so I didn't squirt any in the bushings. The noise sounds like metal to metal, as if there's some slop to it. But I can't imagine that a lack of grease will make a sound that will reverberate throughout the whole interior of the car.

I will grease it up today, but I will be damned surprised is this cures this AWFUL sound when on a bumpy road.

Help.

matt94z

iTrader: (49)

You should have greased the busjings after the install. I have had mine for about two years, and with basic maint, they are just like new. Also, I would put some blue Loctite on the threads, just in case.

1ScrudeDude

After work I will grease 'em up. I hope you're right, because it sure sounds worse than a lubrication issue. It sounds like something is loose, resulting in slop, and then metal to metal contact.

Thanks for the reply.

Xsta Z 28

iTrader: (2)

My passenger side the bolt that mounts the LCA to the frame was loose . . . .

1ScrudeDude

Yup, that was the issue initially, but now that sucker is tight!

matt94z

iTrader: (49)

Thought of something else, did you have the suspension preloaded when you tightened the bolt?? Something to think about.

1ScrudeDude

As in having the wheels planted firmly on ground when tightening?
NOPE!

Holy **** this could be it. But we had to take the wheel off because we were spinning the bolt while trying to torque the nut. With my buddy holding the bolt head in place from the outside (wheel off), I was able to tighten down.

Now we gotta figure a way to hold the bolt still while we re-tighten. It seemed impossible with the wheel in the way.

Anyway, good idea dude.

matt94z

iTrader: (49)

Just put a jack under your rear end and preload the suspension. That should fix your prob!

1ScrudeDude

It's a plan. Is it ok to place the jack directly underneath the diff?

matt94z

iTrader: (49)

Yeah, I do it all the time. Just slide the jack on the meat of the rear, you'll be ok. I go straight in lifting both tires.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Are these rod ended LCA's?

1ScrudeDude

Here are the choices and specs...

http://www.ls1speed.com/catagory.cfm...r%20Suspension