ABadMother1999

iTrader: (9)

Hey I am just curious as to what I EXACTLY need to do my brakes. I planned on getting new rotors and brake pads. Which brings my series of questions...

1) What brake pads do you suggest?
2) What rotors do u suggest?
3) Is there anything else I would need or you would advise me to get when doing the new rotors and pads?
4) How easy would this be to do myself if I had a general idea and a shop I work at to do it?
5) How long might it take to do for a first time guy?

With all this being said... please give any and all additional information that you think would be helpful. Also, with this being said... I want to do it the right way but I dont want to spend a grand doing it!

Thanks for all the help!

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

1) For a daily driver, GM OEM
2) Blanks, no holes or slots. Brembo seems to be fashionable these days
3) Clean and grease the guide pins
4) Damned easy http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
5) a couple hours

ABadMother1999

iTrader: (9)

I have some mods, not many but I plan to do some work this summer. I bought the rotors that Wholesale Direct had for $299.99. What else do I need with this and will it be fine for my application? Thanks!

ActionJack

Wholesale Direct and Irotors are both having sales on rotors. I have the Irotors and have been very happy with these.

As far as break pads go I would recommend the Hawke pads (type depending on your use). I did try the Axxis when I got the rear rotors replaced and found that the Hawke gripped better and felt better to me so after giving the Axxis a try for a couple thousand miles I broke down and bought new Hawke pads and trashed my Axxis.

BigE

iTrader: (2)

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! I learned that lesson last night. My car only has 44k miles on it, but it came from the Salt Belt. The bottom caliper pins had corroded and frozen in their bores. This caused my rotors to warp prematurely and caused a vibration accompanied by a little grinding under extreme braking conditions. With a wrench, some WD-40, a BFH and a sailor's Thesaurus, I managed to free them. I cleaned all the gunk out of the bore and ran the pins over the wire wheel. I hit them with some synthetic caliper lube, put them back in and everything works great! However, the pins had started to pit and they're only about 5 bucks a piece so I'm going to replace the affected ones anyway.

Quick rundown of tools needed for the front (rear similar, if not identical):

-13mm for the caliper pin bolt
-18mm for the caliper bracket (must be removed to take off the rotor)
-19mm for the lugnuts (check to make sure yours are the same)
-Flat blade screwdriver (to remove the rotor star washer retainer, it'll still be there if the rotors have never been touched and does not have to be reused)
-5/8 wrench (to back up the caliper bolt; it's probably metric but I had a 15 and an 18 and nothing in between, the 5/8 fit snuggly and didn't round anything off)
-Large C-clamp to press the pistons back into the caliper (make sure to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and don't let it overflow; when you press in the pistons, IT WILL RISE; if it's going to overflow, remove some fluid)
-Wire or box (to hang or support the caliper, DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG BY THE HOSE)
-Wheel lock adaptor (if your car has wheel locks)
-Brake cleaner to clean off new rotors (dunno about zinc coated, check with manufacturer)
-Torque wrench (to torque wheels, caliper pin bolts and caliper bracket bolts)
-Caliper slide grease (for the caliper pins)

That's all I can think of right now. Good luck.

BAD2000TA

iTrader: (6)

Save your money and get the cheap AutoZone rotors - this is the first set that have never warped on me. On the rears, paint the "hat" or it'll rust on ya'. Looks like **** through the rims. But, they aren't warped and stop damn good.

ABadMother1999

iTrader: (9)

Ya I think I am going to go with cheaper rotors from ASP... I work for a shop so i get a NICE discount! Thanks for the advice guys!

psykoTA

iTrader: (4)

I am going to go with Brembo blanks, and stock pads when it comes time.

5LiterBeater

Do a search for pads and I think that you will find that the OEM pads are pretty much your best choice. 1. They are not that expensive. 2. They don't squeal which most of the racing pads or higher performance pads do. 3. They don't dust as badly as racing or high performance pads. Just my two cents if this is your daily driver.

5LiterBeater

Oh and also wash your new rotors in soap and water. That will take off the coating that companies ship them with. I am not sure what it does exactly, but most brake manufacturers recommend it along with some of the people on this site. Anyone else heard of this?

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

I just clean them really good with brake parts cleaner fluid.