SStolen

iTrader: (22)

I don't drag or auto-x. I'm just looking to keep the frame tight and rattle-free in the long run.

I'm comparing the SLP double diamonds to the BMR tubulars. I wouldn't normally compare the two since they are different types imo but I read in another post that the BMR tubular subframes make the car feel just as rigid as the SLP double diamonds. I can't really see that happening considering they only run from the front to the back compared to tieing in multiple points like the SLP's but who knows. I know that Rob Raynor ran the BMR tubulars and swore by them. His frame was straight as an arrow pulling wheels in first and second running in the nines!

Can you actually tell a difference in the way the car rides and sounds after installing the subframes? Will it make it louder in any way, i.e. clunking noises from dips in the road? A friend of mine had a ten point cage welded in his car and he said he couldn't really tell a difference. I don't think he was really looking for it though. btw, he has all stock susp. except for BMR boxed LCA's.

So what about a 4 point weld in cage instead of SFC's? Would that be equivalent, better or worse. Same questions: Will I be able to tella difference, loud noise, etc?

I was also looking into getting a Hotchkis STB. once again mainly for structural rigidty. Does this really cut down on dash rattles? Can you tell any kind of difference in the front of the car, i.e. keep the tires planted around corners? Thanks alot.

Flawless02SS

iTrader: (9)

yeah installing SFC's on your car, u will feel a night and day difference. you def want to go with the double diamond style(SLP or Kenny Brown). My car feels a whole lot tighter. They really hold the car together in hard cornering. T-top and dash rattling stopped. My SFC's are one of my best MODs. I dont think the 4 piont roll cage will stop t-top and dash rattle, but it will def stiff'in up the chassis though. And as far as the STB goes, im looking to go with Hotchkis, i just love the look. Hope info helps

AgentOrange

I got the SLP DD's. Very nice but wish I didn't have them because I had to cut into the drivers side for my FLP header/y-pipe and then masicure them again welding in the BMR cross-support for their Trac-Pak. I guess the moral of my little rant is try and plan out as much as you can before you purchase something, the belly of my car looks like frankinstein.

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

are these slps weld in or just bolt on, i would love to have an awesome set of bolt on SFCs but if weld is in the better way to go i could do that...

Lemme know
Thanks
Louie

SmokedOutZ28

iTrader: (35)

you have your choice, they either weld in or bolt on... bolt on's costing more but they come with all hardware and coated and then if you wanted to you could weld them in.

http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=70801

-1SLOWSS

iTrader: (10)

I noticed a difference after the install of my BMR weld on SFC's. Really helped to tighten things up a little but the biggest change happened after installing my BMR shock tower brace. I notice the difference in how tight the front end was just pulling outta my parking lot!

99CamaroSS

iTrader: (1)

I put the SLP DD bolt ons at the beginning of spring last year, deffinatly night and day difference. Ive heard the weld ons are better b/c the holes in the bolt ons become elongated over time, deffinatly no sign of this after a year of hard driving on my car, but even if it does happen, like previously said, you can always turn them into weld ons. I also did the strut tower brace at the same time, w/ new tires my SS can almost out handle my buddies BMW M3. (But i also have bilstien shocks and Eibach 1" lowering springs)