Your opinion on BMR Lower control arms....help!
#1
Your opinion on BMR Lower control arms....help!
Hey guys, I am lookin to buy some new LCA's and I was just wonderin if anyone has BMR's and if they have held up for you well. Also, would you go with relocation brackets?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#6
Originally Posted by abate1224
why are the relo brackets necessary?
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#8
Originally Posted by formula87350
If my car is not lowered and I do not plan to do it do I need them? If so, where can I get them? I can't find them on BMR's website.
#9
Originally Posted by formula87350
If my car is not lowered and I do not plan to do it do I need them? If so, where can I get them? I can't find them on BMR's website.
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyDrivetrain.htm
They may help somewhat with a stock ride height, but you don't need them.
#12
<- BMR
Do a search , particularly on BMR's quality. There was a real good and long thread from about two years ago on LS1.com about people expirence with their stuff, that can back up my opinion and expriences. I have had quite a few items on my car including - STB, PHB, LCA's, LCA Reloc.s, Trac Pak and tubular K-member. Right now I only have two left the trac pak and the STB. The trac pak would be gone by now if it wasn't welded in. Their stuff will hold up to a moderately driven car, and their Xtreme stuff will hold for drag only cars but if you plan to do some real racing, AutoX, RR, etc... get some quality LGM stuff or something from Spohn. Search around and you see that their weld's just don't hold up and some of the design are just destine for failure ( k-mbr)
Do a search , particularly on BMR's quality. There was a real good and long thread from about two years ago on LS1.com about people expirence with their stuff, that can back up my opinion and expriences. I have had quite a few items on my car including - STB, PHB, LCA's, LCA Reloc.s, Trac Pak and tubular K-member. Right now I only have two left the trac pak and the STB. The trac pak would be gone by now if it wasn't welded in. Their stuff will hold up to a moderately driven car, and their Xtreme stuff will hold for drag only cars but if you plan to do some real racing, AutoX, RR, etc... get some quality LGM stuff or something from Spohn. Search around and you see that their weld's just don't hold up and some of the design are just destine for failure ( k-mbr)
#13
i guess it would all depend on wat you are planning of doing with the car. Its important to note that, imo, any lca that isnt intended for a all-out drag car with poly bushings is the wrong bushing. Also, there are some considerable disadvantages that you should consider before ordering anything.
The poly bushings arent meant for LCA imo.....people feel that after they installed a set of poly/poly lca'z they felt the ride improve..more responsive. In a way yes the ride feels tighter, but not in a good way. THe stock lca is meant to have "pliable" bushings in order to work properly. THe tighter feel is coming from a bushing that doesnt give way, thus possibly creating some unwanted oversteer....and binding, not to mention a squeeky ride.
If anything, go for a rod-end design or rod/poly (last resort)....if available, i would like a rod/rubber lca with a tubular body...but i dont think its available if not a one off custom. My only problem with rod ends is that they transmit a harsher ride to the cabin, but your suspension will "Work" the way it should due to the fact that these "bushings" move freely, eliminating the binding and giving you a "positive" reacting suspension.
again, see where you are going to realistically take the car and research. I know its tough when you first start posting questions, even though im still "considered" a newbie, but we've all been there and just dont be afraid to ask.....
most importantly though, READ! READ! READ!
good luck!!
The poly bushings arent meant for LCA imo.....people feel that after they installed a set of poly/poly lca'z they felt the ride improve..more responsive. In a way yes the ride feels tighter, but not in a good way. THe stock lca is meant to have "pliable" bushings in order to work properly. THe tighter feel is coming from a bushing that doesnt give way, thus possibly creating some unwanted oversteer....and binding, not to mention a squeeky ride.
If anything, go for a rod-end design or rod/poly (last resort)....if available, i would like a rod/rubber lca with a tubular body...but i dont think its available if not a one off custom. My only problem with rod ends is that they transmit a harsher ride to the cabin, but your suspension will "Work" the way it should due to the fact that these "bushings" move freely, eliminating the binding and giving you a "positive" reacting suspension.
again, see where you are going to realistically take the car and research. I know its tough when you first start posting questions, even though im still "considered" a newbie, but we've all been there and just dont be afraid to ask.....
most importantly though, READ! READ! READ!
good luck!!
#14
Have nothing but BMR on the car and never had a problem!! I mostly drag race and street drive the car (no autocross) couldn't be happier!! remember to take everything on a forum as an opinion not gospel,good luck...........
#15
Originally Posted by sikws6
remember to take everything on a forum as an opinion not gospel,good luck...........
#16
Originally Posted by sikws6
remember to take everything on a forum as an opinion not gospel,good luck...........
#17
Thanks for all of your opinions guys, it helps a bunch. I'm thinkin about going with the box (square) LCA's. Hopefully this will give me the traction I need for the street and keep that wheel hop to a minimum. If anyone has any for sale or know anyone send me a pm. Thanks for the help...... it's still open for other suggestions.
#18
I've had the BMR tube lca's poly/poly end's on for 4 years and have had no problem's, I also have the bolt on lowering bracket's that I put on when I had Hotchkis lowering spring's on but took the spring's off because it was lower than they said but left the bracket's on and keep the lca's in the lower bolt hole and this really helped with traction and to eliminate wheel hop. A adj. torque arm will really help to get traction by getting your pinion angle at the right angle for the best traction.