90ZR1

To each there own in my opinion, but I have talked to a few known corvette mechanics and this is what I know and truly believe.Cross drilled rotors were designed with the intent that cool air would pass through the rotor to help reduce the heat deflection through the rotor. An interesting fact about (all)"vented" rotors is that they pull air from the center of the rotors and allow it to pass in an outward direction. By cross drilling the rotors, you can achieve more cool swept area of the rotor and pad while sweeping the pad and rotor surface at the same time. This is very beneficial for performance and daily driving. The cross drilling also makes the rotor surface more aggressive to give a better initial bite under heavy breaking. Many wanna be "Racers" believe that all cross drilled rotors are prone to cracking. One of the things that they don't understand is that all rotors are prone to crack given wrong or extreme conditions. The difference is the heat threshold that each of these rotors will allow.

A slotted rotor will have a higher thermal thresh hold but can still fail. One of the most overlooked reasons for brake failure is mismatched pads and rotor combination. With out the correct combination, your performance level could really be at risk as well as your safety.

Just because a rotor is cross drilled does not mean that it is at risk to fail or crack. Many manufacture's use different methods to help prevent rotor failure. One such method is to radial chamfer each gun drilled hole in the rotor surface. This as you may recall from physics class makes the edge stronger. (a curved surface is stronger than a flat one). By doing this you also make the rotor more aggressive with out making them more abusive toward the pads. This also allows for more air surface for cooling.

BrandonSS

iTrader: (1)

Call me a ricer. But plenty of dollars have been spent on the exterior of the car. IMO the Baers look great and compliment any wide open face wheel and polished/painted calipers. I am not a daily track goer. The car may see the track once or twice a year tops. I am looking for something that performs as stock and possibly is a tad bit more resistant to warping. All that and something that looks great too. My car looks great (my opinion) and I would like the agressive look of the rotors. Unless they are more prone to warping than the next then my money, since the goal is to LOOK BETTER and perform a hair better than stock, is spent properly.

There are a lot of hardcore racing guys on this board. Some of us are just weekend and nice day cruisers. I fall into that bracket. The racers will say, "spend the money elsewhere like some performance parts." That will probably come from the mouths of those who have bought aftermarket rims for the cosmetic appearance. Are they needed? No. Not for everyone. Some yes that put their cars on extreme diets in the goal to reach single digit times. Others do it for looks.

Enough of my rant... flame suit is on.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I won't even argue this anymore. You can run through the two links I posted and read the facts or ignore it. Doesn't matter to me.

However, one quick question. How do your miracle engineers chamfer the holes on the inside of the rotor? It's easy to chamfer the surface where the brake pads ride, but I've not yet found anyone smart enough to chamfer the inside of the rotors. So, I guess they just have to crack from the other side.....


Oh, and while you're at it. Please explain this miracle way to match pads and rotors??? This should be entertaining.

I guess if I run rotors and no pads, I could have a real safety issue. Or, pads and no rotors. Or, cross drilled rotors and pads made out of cream cheese or something like that. Maybe carbon pads for carbon rotors with an iron rotor or carbon fiber rotors with pads for iron rotors. Or, those goofy titanium wave rotors they tried to sell recently. They didn't stop well with any pads.

I'm listening.


Don't forget, Corvette mechanics know it all. That's why they are not working for an F1 team. (yes, there are good ones, but simply being a "corvette mechanic" does not convince me that they have a clue, sorry).

Here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=cracked+rotor


And here:

The top picture is of a Porsche rotor (you know, the "good" ones that are fabled to have cast in holes).

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=14

Brandon. Anyone with a street/show car who wants the drilled/slotted look and knows it's a look, not an upgrade is just fine with me. As long as you know the difference and make an informed decision, you are free to do whatever you'd like. I just don't want people being sold Eradispeeds as an upgrade/miracle braking fix. If you want pretty, buy pretty, just don't expect instant "race brakes" out of them. No flame suit required.

I'm done.

jargan04

iTrader: (1)

I give up. Just going to say, once you drive down the street the holes will be filled with dust. Brandon I have nothing against the drilled/sloted look. I have the LG DBA gold drilled/sloted, but they are not your average rotor. They are much stonger and can handle more abuse. Down side is I payed enough. The eradispeeds are just over priced. I would rather get the brembo drilled ones that are better.

HPP

trackbird, thanks for your info (again). For some reason I'm drawn to these threads. lol

Sometime back you convinced me of the downsides of drilled rotors, so you're effort is not totally wasted. Sometimes I wonder why people with info (like you) even bother to stick around forums. I just hope that you do continue to.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Kevin, sometimes, don't you just feel like Yoda?

You are the man, Kevin ... I just couldn't bring myself to start the same dribble over again. It's his income tax return check ...

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

All I'm trying to do is educate people so that they can make an informed decision. If it's a street/show car and they want pretty rotors, get 'em. Just don't let the marketing guys convince you of the "miracle properties" of drilling holes in your rotors. Once you know the facts, you can make an educated choice. Anyone who knows and understands and wants them anyway, I have no problem with. Since they know why they are buying those rotors, and more importantly, why they are not buying those rotors (increased performance). I guess I am truly here to fight the spread of mis-information and as much as I try, I just can't ignore these threads after they get so far along. I keep trying to stay out of it, I really do.

Yoda? Actually I feel more like this guy.

Each time it gets harder to join these threads. I wrote up the info on my website to prevent having to type it over and over again. And, I still type it over and over again. One of these days I'll finally learn....

I guess I keep thinking that if I can help one person that reads through all of this, it's worth it.

HPP

Like I said, you have.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, I appreciate that.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Dr. Phil instead of Yoda ...

jargan04

iTrader: (1)

HAHAHA. Trackbird. I have learned a lot from reading your post and reading over at fraxx. You and Mitch both are the Dr. Phils of brakes. LOL

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

Trackbirds web site tech and track knowledge have always been beneficial and accurate. Could use some more stereo tech, but suspension wise jedi for sure. It helps to been there, done that, and been alive to report back.

90ZR1

Ceramic coated pads, do not create brake dust... I stated what I stated so I am going to keep the rest of the thread myself, i respect your ideas and opinions and you as a member and I'm sure there are thing we can agree about. This would be an endless argument because we are both not going to change our minds LOL.

Either way keep doin what your doin as I will as well, dont let dumb threads die! We must inform the ignorant! Also, i would never buy cross drilled for looks... Anyways Take care!

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

???

No, the interaction of the rotor and pad wears the pad (and rotor) and that generates brake dust.

And, pads are not ceramic coated, they are made of a ceramic "substrate" that is a combination of ceramic and other materials (a mixture that is uniform throughout the pads composition). There is no coating involved.

However, Carbotech pads are Ceramic based pads and I had a 1/8" thick layer of "dust" that had coated my wheels and needed sand blasted to remove (wheel cleaner and a brush wouldn't touch it, it didn't even give me clean dirt). So, it is not correct to say that Ceramic pads are "dustless" pads. It depends on the pad. If that is what you were saying, you have been misinformed.

Where did that come from anyway?

And, you never explained how you match pads and rotors for maximum safety and performance benefit?

I brought tech and links to good tech. I asked about your chamfered holes on the inside of the rotor, etc. You have now discounted everything posted so far and said "I'm sticking to my beleifs". That's cool, but you never presented any tech to explain your arguements that was better than "a Corvette mechanic told me".

Anyway, you don't have to answer, but I thought I'd ask and I'm willing to discuss it.

Have fun!

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Actually, truth be known, I worked as a professional installer in college (a while ago) and did IASCA competitions on occasion. That was in what feels like another life. For a time reference, I was running (at various times) Precision Power amps, Rockford Fosgate Punch 150/punch 45 (HD) amps, Phoenix Gold MPS-2500 and MS-275 amps, and many others (Audiocontrol EQL and other processors). You may notice that those are all very old amplifiers that were at the top of the game at the time.

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

You too huh? Cool! I spent some time in Chicago building custom bandpass boxes. One in particular was for a toyota minivan, kinda looks like a VW. We had 2 12" earthquake subs dual voice coil, independent of the other, six ch amp powering all the subs.

The box was built with 3/4" partical board, and sealed with ATV sealant. The interior wave cancellations were absorbed with fiber filler material. They needed 2.2 cu ft per side. They were firing straight into the floor and shook the van and everyone within a 2 car radius, but clean without any distortion. Sounded good with jazz or rock.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Dr. Phil and Bob Vila ....

mjf454

Kevin,
Where can I get a set of these? Can I make them at home?

BrandonSS

iTrader: (1)

Track bird...

With that being said. Are the baers more prone to warping than the stock POS rotors? Or will they risist wear the same or a hair better?

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Kinda off subject here, but I went with Powerslot rotors on the belief that they were a better casting than the other manufacturers (not because the slots are better). I run Hawk pads with them. Is this true?

Sorry, I never come in this area of the LS1tech world much, but mitchntx and trackbird are entertaining.