JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Glad we figured out about the shock perches. Like I said, if they were welded on like the orange KYB's I've seen, then they wouldn't work. I'm no KYB expert as you can tell.

I was going to mention that you should get them from Sam. His knowledge of spring rates and shock damping totally made him a friend to me. That type of help is invaluable.

6']['9

iTrader: (2)

yeah i was talking about the rears, since i have a 12bolt its a pain in the *** to use that perch that is included with the kit. I believe it only fits on a 10 bolt cause it has that lip where the spring sits on the axle.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

How exactly does the spring sit on the 12 bolt? Does it use the same springs?

Once you know a springs rate, it can be modded to change the rate as well as ride height. Explain what you are starting with and what you want to do.

For instance, is the 12bolt already in? Are you using the stock rear springs? Are you using the stock isolators on top of them? Do you want to lower the rear, how much? What spring rate do you want?

6']['9

iTrader: (2)

well the 12bolt already has these bigass perches on the axle, and the 10 bolt has more of a lip where that red anodized thing would sit in. So basically its like putting a perch on top of another perch. the 12 bolt is already in im using the GC 150# springs. isolators are on top of the spring. i want to lower my car just like yours but mines a bit lower. on mine the rear has practically no wheel gap.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...06788561iFHmsR

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

OK, so you already have the GC rear setup?
Are you using just the springs without the adjustable collar?

Is there anything wrong with having the perch on top of the perch? Do you think it would be unstable? A picture of these parts would help if you have any.

In your case, I don't think using the metal twist in spacers is going to work very well because those springs are already at 150lb and the gaps are so large that using a spacer would jump the rate up too much.

You could weld the metal GC lower piece to the rear axle and then thread the aluminum collar into it to get the adjustability back. That would be the cheapest way to do it.

You could also go to the salvage yard and get a second set of rubber isolators and stack them on top of yours. This would bump the rear up some more, hopefully enough.

If you were willing to spend some money, these are the best I have seen:
http://www.budzter.com/adjusters.html


I can't really tell you more without seeing what you are working with, so I hope this helps.

PS. you can also flip around here a few pages each way and see if anything might work for you.
http://www.cmwraceparts.com/Springs/springs36.html Click the camera for pics

6']['9

iTrader: (2)

if you put the GC perch on top of the moser perch, then if you adjust it to the lowest it will still be about 3-4" wheel gap. When we had the car on the lift, being held by the wheels we went under the car to adjust the gold things the whole assembly turned instead of just the nut. & i loosened it and everything. I was at the tire shop today getting one of my DR's repaired i should have taken a pic then. If i can ill get one tomorrow when i jack up the car so you can see what im talking about.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Well, if you want to use the GC adjustor, the spring can be shortened. The trick is to not cut too much. Maybe start with 3/4 of a coil. This will be most of the dead coil, but should drop it quite a bit. The rate should go up 30lbs per coil. If you think a 175-180lb rate would be too stiff, then we could find another way. If that rate sounds OK, then you can try it.

We could also get a used set of stock springs and mod them to work with the GC perches and maintain a lower spring rate.

6']['9

iTrader: (2)

well id like the rear to be higher than what it is now, with longtubes its kinda a bitch. Also when i look under the car while its level the LCA's are @ a 45 degree angle going down where the highest point of the LCA is where the rear is and the lowest point is the one connected to the frame. Im thinking i need relocation brackets. Any way if i cut the stock spring would that increase the spring rate, I doubt it would get to anywhere around 150+ right

need-a-z

coilovers are just to much money for my taste. I am going with Tockico on my 92 and KYB on the wife's 98.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

We're not talking about real coilovers, just conversions and you only need them on the front. The GC front kit is $225 (4th gen) which is about what you'd pay for a spring kit. It is a no brainer from my point of view, plus you get whatever spring rate YOU want and can change the ride height, too. It was the easiest decision I ever made.

FAST LS1

iTrader: (2)

If you ever change springs even once because you want to change the ride height it's worth it in my opinion. If you change twice it will have paid for itself, and you'll still have the adjustability.

I have Koni SA 4th gens up front and 3rd gens out rear along with GC coil overs front and rear. I've been very pleased with the handling and ability to maintain a smooth ride for a daily driver.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ground+control

Red Orange 96

iTrader: (2)

FAST LS1: Where did you get your Y2K wheels? Are they replicas?
Your formula is very clean. Nice work.

FAST LS1

iTrader: (2)

Yes, they're replicas from wheelreplica.com
I wanted 17x9.5 Y2K's, and they were the only ones who I could find that had them. They're been great wheels so far.

need-a-z

i see your point here

Sonicmix

I have the GC coilovers front and rear, however I spoke to and ordered them through Sam Strano. My situation was similar, I heard stories of rear springs sagging, and I knew I was gonna put a heavy sound system in the rear so I wanted to be able to compensate. My car now rides a little tighter than stock, which is comforting since it's lower. It is nowhere near bone jarring stiff, and I can't feel all the nooks and crannies in the road either. This was a big concern cuz I'm running 18's as well so there's less of the tire to absorb the road imperfections
I highly recommend them, but definitely do yourself a favor and talk to Sam about what you want to get out of your suspension changes.

Red Orange 96

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info FAST LS1.

Jeff Smith

iTrader: (44)

I need your advice, tell me how take off the cap? (please look at my pix). I tried put GC coilover over this cap and won’t clearance that area. It made me puzzle.

Use allen or hex key to remove ? It seem not allen or hex on it (cap).

Please help me to how off the cap from Koni SA rod.

Sorry I can't figure how my picture won't put on this message.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

You need a special tool to do that. I made a nice one myself by doing some cutting and welding. PM me if you would like me to make you one also.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Koni SA's work extremly well with the GC conversion, but are unique in that you have to either grind away some metal from the top hat of the shock or else make a tool to remove the top hat from the shock in order to allow the GC sleeve to slide onto the shock. It's not too difficult and definately worth it.
I have some pics here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/306869-how-coil-over-different-strut.html
Also try a search on this forum:
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?
like this one:
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?a...&hl=koni+tool&

matrixiskool

iTrader: (12)

THis kit is pretty cool, but its kind of useless if I can't adjust the rear of my car isnt it?