Alignment Settings
Alignment Settings ****Camber (°) Caster (°) Toe (°)
factory +1(± 0.5) +3(± 0 .5) 0.15(± 0.5)
autox/street -0.5 to -1.0 +4.0 to +5.0 0.0
What would be best for my car with the staggered wheel/tire setup. I will not be rotating these front to back so I need some setting that give good tire wear?
THANKS!
factory +1(± 0.5) +3(± 0 .5) 0.15(± 0.5)
autox/street -0.5 to -1.0 +4.0 to +5.0 0.0
What would be best for my car with the staggered wheel/tire setup. I will not be rotating these front to back so I need some setting that give good tire wear?
THANKS!
I run:
4.5 castor
-1.3 camber
1/32nd inch of toe out.
I get 30k out of a set of front tires (or so) and at that they are just getting near the wear bars. So, that or anything less (-.7 camber, 0 toe) should be fine, based on my experience.
4.5 castor
-1.3 camber
1/32nd inch of toe out.
I get 30k out of a set of front tires (or so) and at that they are just getting near the wear bars. So, that or anything less (-.7 camber, 0 toe) should be fine, based on my experience.
Originally Posted by trackbird
I run:
4.5 castor
-1.3 camber
1/32nd inch of toe out.
I get 30k out of a set of front tires (or so) and at that they are just getting near the wear bars. So, that or anything less (-.7 camber, 0 toe) should be fine, based on my experience.
4.5 castor
-1.3 camber
1/32nd inch of toe out.
I get 30k out of a set of front tires (or so) and at that they are just getting near the wear bars. So, that or anything less (-.7 camber, 0 toe) should be fine, based on my experience.
Is the alignment shop going to be able to get those specs on my car lowered with a pro kit?
Originally Posted by y2kmaroonz
Thanks for the reply I found your settings doing a search so Im glad you showed up Is the alignment shop going to be able to get those specs on my car lowered with a pro kit?
Is the alignment shop going to be able to get those specs on my car lowered with a pro kit?
Originally Posted by trackbird
Probably. Some get more camber than others. So, you may not see -1.3" camber (and you probably don't need it), but I'm sure you'll get -.7 or -1 if you'd like. If one side does -1 and the other does -.7, have them set both sides to -.7 (so they match). Same for castor, have them match it from side to side and 0 toe is a good setting on these cars. It avoids tire wear and helps keep it from being twitchy. Though it will be more responsive than it was.
actually, factory settings are as follow:
camber : 0.0' to +1.0'
castor: +4.3' to +5.3'
toe: 0.0" +/- 1/32"
I would recommend getting:
camber: -1.0' to -1.5' (or as much negative as you can if you can't go that high)
castor: +4.5'
toe: depends on preferences
lots of people will go for 0" toe, neutral.
toe-out will give you great turn-in response, but car will follow more the imperfections on the road.
a little toe-in will help for high speed stability.
camber : 0.0' to +1.0'
castor: +4.3' to +5.3'
toe: 0.0" +/- 1/32"
I would recommend getting:
camber: -1.0' to -1.5' (or as much negative as you can if you can't go that high)
castor: +4.5'
toe: depends on preferences
lots of people will go for 0" toe, neutral.
toe-out will give you great turn-in response, but car will follow more the imperfections on the road.
a little toe-in will help for high speed stability.
Originally Posted by Eugenio_SS
actually, factory settings are as follow:
camber : 0.0' to +1.0'
castor: +4.3' to +5.3'
toe: 0.0" +/- 1/32"
I would recommend getting:
camber: -1.0' to -1.5' (or as much negative as you can if you can't go that high)
castor: +4.5'
toe: depends on preferences
lots of people will go for 0" toe, neutral.
toe-out will give you great turn-in response, but car will follow more the imperfections on the road.
a little toe-in will help for high speed stability.
camber : 0.0' to +1.0'
castor: +4.3' to +5.3'
toe: 0.0" +/- 1/32"
I would recommend getting:
camber: -1.0' to -1.5' (or as much negative as you can if you can't go that high)
castor: +4.5'
toe: depends on preferences
lots of people will go for 0" toe, neutral.
toe-out will give you great turn-in response, but car will follow more the imperfections on the road.
a little toe-in will help for high speed stability.
So this is what I should shoot for
4.5 castor
-1.3 camber ( As much as I can get -1.0' to -1.5' )
0" toe or up to + 1/32
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Originally Posted by y2kmaroonz
Ok maybe it would help if I say that my car is a daily driver and I drive the interstate every day on the way to work. 70 - 75 mph cruise.. On the way home I drive the back roads with hills and curves.
So this is what I should shoot for
4.5 castor
-1.3 camber ( As much as I can get -1.0' to -1.5' )
0" toe or up to + 1/32
So this is what I should shoot for
4.5 castor
-1.3 camber ( As much as I can get -1.0' to -1.5' )
0" toe or up to + 1/32
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Originally Posted by trackbird
That will work. I drive mine daily with the alignment specs I gave, the toe in will make it a little more stable. Either one works well.
THANKS! 
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 554
Likes: 0
From: NY
I had my car aligned today, here's what they got:
Camber: -.9
Caster: +4.5
Toe: Toe in at 1/32
When they took it out to test it and confirm the steering wheel centering, they told me my rearend sounds loud and said it's the bearings in the rear.
They lifted it up and tried to find if it was the diff/pinon bearings or the axle bearings, they couldn't tell which it was, they also said it sounds bad.
They wanted to do all the bearings in my rearend and I asked them how much, they said it'll be $600 and almost a full day.
I stopped by my friend's house on the way home and he said it sounds like the axle bearings (the one closest to the tire/wheels in the rear) and he said he will bring over a slide hammer and help me change them, he also said he had to do the same thing on his blazer and it sounded worse.
When I got home, I jacked up the rear of the car, the pax rear doesn't have any side to side play, the driver's side does have a lil.
With the car on the ground, there's a small in/out play on the pax side wheel.
I'm trying to find out which bearings could be making the noise, could it be the pinon bearing, the differental bearings or the axle bearings?
I didn't give much attention to the noise my car makes since I'm hard of hearing.
Camber: -.9
Caster: +4.5
Toe: Toe in at 1/32
When they took it out to test it and confirm the steering wheel centering, they told me my rearend sounds loud and said it's the bearings in the rear.
They lifted it up and tried to find if it was the diff/pinon bearings or the axle bearings, they couldn't tell which it was, they also said it sounds bad.
They wanted to do all the bearings in my rearend and I asked them how much, they said it'll be $600 and almost a full day.
I stopped by my friend's house on the way home and he said it sounds like the axle bearings (the one closest to the tire/wheels in the rear) and he said he will bring over a slide hammer and help me change them, he also said he had to do the same thing on his blazer and it sounded worse.
When I got home, I jacked up the rear of the car, the pax rear doesn't have any side to side play, the driver's side does have a lil.
With the car on the ground, there's a small in/out play on the pax side wheel.
I'm trying to find out which bearings could be making the noise, could it be the pinon bearing, the differental bearings or the axle bearings?
I didn't give much attention to the noise my car makes since I'm hard of hearing.
just in case you can't even reach -1.0' of camber on both sides, take the best you can get, like some ppl have maxed @ -0.7' camber on stock suspension.
Also note that you'll get the possibility to get more negative camber when the caster is set to +4.5'
just a fyi.
Also note that you'll get the possibility to get more negative camber when the caster is set to +4.5'
just a fyi.