View Poll Results: What should my 1st suspension mod be?
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First Suspension Mod Poll
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Columbus, OH
Originally Posted by Raptor99
SFC's should always be the first suspension mod. After that is springs/shocks.
As far as springs and shocks, if you don't want to drop more than an inch, you could go with a coil over setup and use weight jackers to lift the car to your desired ride height. I wouldn't go with either BMR or Eibach sportline springs though...
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 611
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From: Fairfield, CA
I really don't think I want coilovers, but I appreciate the suggestion. I don't want to drop more than 1 inch and I want it to have a better setup than I currently have. Apparently I have 1LE springs and DeCarbon shocks. Like I said before, I want it to be a firm ride, but not a JOLTING ride used for canyon carving and FUN. So I would have to get a higher rated spring than the 1LEs and a shock that can handle that. Any suggestions from one of the moderators or anyone else would be great.
Keep in mind that I don't want to spend $2K for Konis either. I am out of my league here? I wouldn't think so, someone has to have a nice setup for less tha $1K (I already have BMR SFCs).
Keep in mind that I don't want to spend $2K for Konis either. I am out of my league here? I wouldn't think so, someone has to have a nice setup for less tha $1K (I already have BMR SFCs).
Originally Posted by qwikz28
how come no one ever mentions H&R springs? everyone always tells me they are the best for handling. how do they stack up against the G2s?
I'm running H&R's. The reason they are not mentioned is that most people are not familiar with them (they do mostly german car stuff, and race applications) and nobody seems to carry them (tire rack does, I'm not sure about anyone else). The other problem is, the spring rates. The rates are a little high and are towards the upper "rated" limit for Koni's (and I'd not even put stock Bilstiens or decarbons on them, they really are rather stiff as lowering springs go). Also, the rear of the car is 1/4 to 1/2 inch lower than I think it should be with those springs (for optimum handling). With that said, they worked very well for me for over 2 years (until I switched to the ground control rear spring setup). So, they are very good, just not perfect and they require "proper" shocks (or you'll hate the ride....I had to use my rear decarbons for 2 weeks while my Koni's were rebuilt....you took a beating riding in my car with those shocks).
For a 1" drop, you can look at the SLP/Eibachs or use Koni SA's and do the rear heater hose mod. That will let you keep your stock springs and lower the car almost 1". You can take the money you'd have spent on springs and put it in the shocks. I think you can get SA's for about $700 (give or take some, and using 3rd gen Koni rears).
For other parts. Ryan at UMI does a nice job. LG motorsports makes great stuff and there are others.
As a side note, the Strano bars are 35/22 (both hollow), not 35/25 (that's the suspension techniques kit).
Last edited by trackbird; May 19, 2005 at 03:56 PM.
SSU'S Vice Mod
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Hazard Co. Maryland
Originally Posted by trackbird
I'm running H&R's. The reason they are not mentioned is that most people are not familiar with them (they do mostly german car stuff, and race applications) and nobody seems to carry them (tire rack does, I'm not sure about anyone else). The other problem is, the spring rates. The rates are a little high and are towards the upper "rated" limit for Koni's (and I'd not even put stock Bilstiens or decarbons on them, they really are rather stiff as lowering springs go). Also, the rear of the car is 1/4 to 1/2 inch lower than I think it should be with those springs (for optiman handling). With that said, they worked very well for me for over 2 years (until I switched to the ground control rear spring setup). So, they are very good, just not perfect and they require "proper" shocks (or you'll hate the ride....I had to use my rear decarbons for 2 weeks while my Koni's were rebuilt....you took a beating riding in my car with those shocks).
For a 1" drop, you can look at the SLP/Eibachs or use Koni SA's and do the rear heater hose mod. That will let you keep your stock springs and lower the car almost 1". You can take the money you'd have spent on springs and put it in the shocks. I think you can get SA's for about $700 (give or take some, and using 3rd gen Koni rears).
For other parts. Ryan at UMI does a nice job. LG motorsports makes great stuff and there are others.
As a side note, the Strano bars are 35/22 (both hollow), not 35/25 (that's the suspension techniques kit).
For a 1" drop, you can look at the SLP/Eibachs or use Koni SA's and do the rear heater hose mod. That will let you keep your stock springs and lower the car almost 1". You can take the money you'd have spent on springs and put it in the shocks. I think you can get SA's for about $700 (give or take some, and using 3rd gen Koni rears).
For other parts. Ryan at UMI does a nice job. LG motorsports makes great stuff and there are others.
As a side note, the Strano bars are 35/22 (both hollow), not 35/25 (that's the suspension techniques kit).
I noticed no one mentioned QA1s. Obviously they are pricey and I'd think they'd be direct compeition for Konis. Are they more geared for drag racing? I'd think though with the double adjustables, they'd be able to support the flexibility to do either, and figured I'd mention them to keep your options open. I too am impressed with the UMI deisgns. Near as I can tell, their entry up to their double adjustable stuff all looks quality and they are using quality components (QA1 rod ends in their adj stuff).
Originally Posted by Nick D
I really don't think I want coilovers, but I appreciate the suggestion. I don't want to drop more than 1 inch and I want it to have a better setup than I currently have. Apparently I have 1LE springs and DeCarbon shocks. Like I said before, I want it to be a firm ride, but not a JOLTING ride used for canyon carving and FUN. So I would have to get a higher rated spring than the 1LEs and a shock that can handle that. Any suggestions from one of the moderators or anyone else would be great.
Keep in mind that I don't want to spend $2K for Konis either. I am out of my league here? I wouldn't think so, someone has to have a nice setup for less tha $1K (I already have BMR SFCs).
Keep in mind that I don't want to spend $2K for Konis either. I am out of my league here? I wouldn't think so, someone has to have a nice setup for less tha $1K (I already have BMR SFCs).
Like Kevin said, you can get into Koni's for $705 for a set of 4. And using Koni fronts allows you the option of lowering the front of the car about 3/4" without the need for springs. The rear can easily be dropped by about 1/2" as well. And FWIW, **the stock springs are not bad handling at all**, and 1LE's are already about 25% stiffer.... I'd rather have a car with good shocks and stock springs than a car with lower springs and some not as good shocks on it. Trust me, shocks make the car. And if you want more roll stiffness you can put on more appropriate bars.
If you still wanted springs, you can do Koni's and springs for the low $900's, leaving you just about (but not quite) enough room under you $1k for a good adjustable PHB.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Originally Posted by sb427f-car
I noticed no one mentioned QA1s. Obviously they are pricey and I'd think they'd be direct compeition for Konis. Are they more geared for drag racing? I'd think though with the double adjustables, they'd be able to support the flexibility to do either, and figured I'd mention them to keep your options open.
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TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,662
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From: LaConner WA
I'd do springs and shocks, and a nice alignment using the specs that Mitch suggested. These things alone will make a huge change in car capabilities. After that SFC's, LCA's and brackets, and an APHB. Also as suggested I'd stay away from those pretty, often sold parts whose name starts with a "B" And DON'T use poly on both ends of your LCA's.
[QUOTE=SSpeedracer]How are a rollbar .... Unless you count..... or the bar suspending your body when you flip?
QUOTE]
Actually a good cage or bar is a good mod for suspension because of the stiffness it gives the chassis.....
my 2 cents
as for the seats....yall decide.
QUOTE]
Actually a good cage or bar is a good mod for suspension because of the stiffness it gives the chassis.....
my 2 cents
as for the seats....yall decide.
do good shocks first and Bilsteins are NOT it. They are ok for stock springs but are NOT rated for lowering and are not adjustable. I went with the Koni's they are not cheap but worth it. Then get Sam Strano hollow 35mm 22mm sway bars set
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 47
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From: Miami, Florida
I have had the H&R springs with KYB shocks and they work great. I love the ride, even though I keep the car very stiff so sometimes it is a bit harsh, for autocrossing and taking the highways at speed, they are great.
And the BMR thing, I would also like to know what is wrong with them because I have all the basics from them.
And the BMR thing, I would also like to know what is wrong with them because I have all the basics from them.
For what it's worth, the reason it's a bit harsh sometimes is because of you shocks mostly. That's the trouble with the KYB's, to get them firm enough to offer the damping you need to control those springs they start to ride badly over sharper imperfections. The Koni's do a much better job of damping the car at relatively lower settings, and have a much better piston that is better at dealing with those sharp hits better as well.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 47
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From: Miami, Florida
Originally Posted by Sam Strano
For what it's worth, the reason it's a bit harsh sometimes is because of you shocks mostly. That's the trouble with the KYB's, to get them firm enough to offer the damping you need to control those springs they start to ride badly over sharper imperfections. The Koni's do a much better job of damping the car at relatively lower settings, and have a much better piston that is better at dealing with those sharp hits better as well.
Well, I do keep them at 8 all the time and just prefer it that way. I deal with the occational harshness for the firm ride when cornering. Next time I look to change anything, I will see about different shocks. But for now I am content with my setup.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 611
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From: Fairfield, CA
So I think I am going to keep the 1LE springs and get the Koni's (single adjustable probably). Then maybe I will get Strano's sway bar set. I still like the idea of a BMR Xtreme STB (in black of course).
Yeah keep your 1LE springs and get Koni SA's, thats a very smart decision. This is going to rub some people the wrong way, but if you want a cheap but effective way to lower the car one inch, just cut one coil off the front of those 1LE springs and about 1.25 coils off the rear. That's what I run with my Koni SA's, and I do a lot of autoX.
Then get a performance wheel alignment with zero toe and as much negative camber as possible; you can't ever have too much with an fbody. You will be able to get more with the car lowered.
A good set of tires will help tremendously also. A set of four Nitto RII's would be a good choice as I think someone else already said.
Stay away from the BMR Xtreme rear sway bar. This is a drag race item only! It will make the car very very loose (tail happy) for any kind of cornering. Nothing like flying off the road ***-end first! On the days you drag race, you can just turn up the rear Koni SA's, then back them off for cornering. For the rear bar you want a 21 mm solid 1LE bar or Strano 22 mm hollow.
Then get a performance wheel alignment with zero toe and as much negative camber as possible; you can't ever have too much with an fbody. You will be able to get more with the car lowered.
A good set of tires will help tremendously also. A set of four Nitto RII's would be a good choice as I think someone else already said.
Stay away from the BMR Xtreme rear sway bar. This is a drag race item only! It will make the car very very loose (tail happy) for any kind of cornering. Nothing like flying off the road ***-end first! On the days you drag race, you can just turn up the rear Koni SA's, then back them off for cornering. For the rear bar you want a 21 mm solid 1LE bar or Strano 22 mm hollow.
Last edited by Cal; May 28, 2005 at 01:28 PM.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2005
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SFC's first, whether or not they are suspension.
i have HAL's with the 325 front springs. they are nice once you set up for street. finding out which level of performance on fronts and rears is difficult. before i got the hal's i had bilsteins. i like the hals better. maybe it was the springs i had, but either way...i will be getting new rear springs, non variable 150lb springs and that should be nice for the rear.
i have HAL's with the 325 front springs. they are nice once you set up for street. finding out which level of performance on fronts and rears is difficult. before i got the hal's i had bilsteins. i like the hals better. maybe it was the springs i had, but either way...i will be getting new rear springs, non variable 150lb springs and that should be nice for the rear.