View Poll Results: What should my 1st suspension mod be?
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First Suspension Mod Poll
05-05-2005, 07:52 PM
#1
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First Suspension Mod Poll What should I start with? Keep in mind I have a WS6 and BMR SFCs already. The options will be taken as a package, for exapmle I will not get springs without shocks.
Last edited by Nick D; 05-05-2005 at 07:59 PM.
05-06-2005, 12:40 AM
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No, no, not none of the above. IMO this is what I would do if I were you.....First get the BMR lca, adj phb, and stb. Second, would be sway bars. After one then two, your car will feel very solid on the road and you will get very little body roll. Third would be the springs and shocks. They will help in the handling, plus give you a better stance. But I wouldn't get lowered before you get the swaybars. You may have clearance problems without lowered with out swaybars. I love mine. They make the car so tight around corners. 
I would hold off on the roll bar or cage until you get some serious Hp and plan on going to the track often.
Oh, and don't forget, when you lower your car, you'll need lca relocation brackets and a front end alignment. So do it.
I would hold off on the roll bar or cage until you get some serious Hp and plan on going to the track often.Oh, and don't forget, when you lower your car, you'll need lca relocation brackets and a front end alignment. So do it.
05-06-2005, 01:21 AM
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How are a rollbar and seats a suspension mod. Unless you count the seats suspending your *** or the bar suspending your body when you flip?
Shocks first.
Are WS6 LCA 1LE parts? If yes, you should swap them. They arent worth much, but I'll take them off your hands for a couple of bucks.
Shocks first.
Are WS6 LCA 1LE parts? If yes, you should swap them. They arent worth much, but I'll take them off your hands for a couple of bucks.
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05-06-2005, 08:48 PM
#13
For all around driving ...
-0.8 to -1.0 camber
+4.0 to +4.5 caster
zero toe
The Nitto DR is a great tire ... let out some air to 18-20 psi for a good drag launch and air them up to 32-34 for some good cornering traction.
As far as suspension parts go, LGMotorsports has been the tried and true place to get good quality parts. UMI and Unbalanced Engineering also market good quality parts.
You can't go wrong with Strano's 35mm front sway bar. That 25mm ST or even the 25mm 3rd gen bar will make the car very loose (tail happy), unless you get a big enough spring rate to handle. Being as these are daily drivers, I wouldn't suggest it. Your kidneys will hate you.
A set of G2 Super Springs with Bilstein HD shocks have worked great on my street track car for 4 years. Unlike urban legend, they have not disintegrated, blown up or just plain fallen off the car. Now, has Bilstein changed the HD? Could be ... that I don't know ...
A Strano 35 front bar and a '93 1LE year bar will compliment those springs and shocks nicely.
Aluminum UMI LCAs with rod ends will give the best flexibility, with binding like a poly bushing will. I suggest a steel PHB, though. I've seen aluminum bars flex.
This is all just MHO. I know there are those out there that think my recommendations are way off base. But this set up has worked for me for years ... except for UMI ... they are a relative newcomer and I have been very impressed with Ryan and his attention to detail.
If you think I'm hosed ... fine. I won't debate that. I do a LOT of experimentation and find obscure parts that seem to work very well.
Ask me about a set of "half-assed" front coil-overs for under $200 ... that are working GREAT on 2 CMC F-Bodys.
-0.8 to -1.0 camber
+4.0 to +4.5 caster
zero toe
The Nitto DR is a great tire ... let out some air to 18-20 psi for a good drag launch and air them up to 32-34 for some good cornering traction.
As far as suspension parts go, LGMotorsports has been the tried and true place to get good quality parts. UMI and Unbalanced Engineering also market good quality parts.
You can't go wrong with Strano's 35mm front sway bar. That 25mm ST or even the 25mm 3rd gen bar will make the car very loose (tail happy), unless you get a big enough spring rate to handle. Being as these are daily drivers, I wouldn't suggest it. Your kidneys will hate you.
A set of G2 Super Springs with Bilstein HD shocks have worked great on my street track car for 4 years. Unlike urban legend, they have not disintegrated, blown up or just plain fallen off the car. Now, has Bilstein changed the HD? Could be ... that I don't know ...
A Strano 35 front bar and a '93 1LE year bar will compliment those springs and shocks nicely.
Aluminum UMI LCAs with rod ends will give the best flexibility, with binding like a poly bushing will. I suggest a steel PHB, though. I've seen aluminum bars flex.
This is all just MHO. I know there are those out there that think my recommendations are way off base. But this set up has worked for me for years ... except for UMI ... they are a relative newcomer and I have been very impressed with Ryan and his attention to detail.
If you think I'm hosed ... fine. I won't debate that. I do a LOT of experimentation and find obscure parts that seem to work very well.
Ask me about a set of "half-assed" front coil-overs for under $200 ... that are working GREAT on 2 CMC F-Bodys.
05-06-2005, 11:36 PM
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Mitch, I appreciate your valuable input. This site has some nice suspension info:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fastcar/suspension.html
Being that G2 springs will drop the car 1.5 inches, I wanted to stay away from them. I wanted to drop the car between 0.75 and 1.00 inches, and NO MORE!!!! What else do you guys suggest?
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fastcar/suspension.html
Being that G2 springs will drop the car 1.5 inches, I wanted to stay away from them. I wanted to drop the car between 0.75 and 1.00 inches, and NO MORE!!!! What else do you guys suggest?
05-08-2005, 04:40 PM
#17
Originally Posted by mitchntx
For all around driving ...
-0.8 to -1.0 camber
+4.0 to +4.5 caster
zero toe
The Nitto DR is a great tire ... let out some air to 18-20 psi for a good drag launch and air them up to 32-34 for some good cornering traction.
As far as suspension parts go, LGMotorsports has been the tried and true place to get good quality parts. UMI and Unbalanced Engineering also market good quality parts.
You can't go wrong with Strano's 35mm front sway bar. That 25mm ST or even the 25mm 3rd gen bar will make the car very loose (tail happy), unless you get a big enough spring rate to handle. Being as these are daily drivers, I wouldn't suggest it. Your kidneys will hate you.
A set of G2 Super Springs with Bilstein HD shocks have worked great on my street track car for 4 years. Unlike urban legend, they have not disintegrated, blown up or just plain fallen off the car. Now, has Bilstein changed the HD? Could be ... that I don't know ...
A Strano 35 front bar and a '93 1LE year bar will compliment those springs and shocks nicely.
Aluminum UMI LCAs with rod ends will give the best flexibility, with binding like a poly bushing will. I suggest a steel PHB, though. I've seen aluminum bars flex.
This is all just MHO. I know there are those out there that think my recommendations are way off base. But this set up has worked for me for years ... except for UMI ... they are a relative newcomer and I have been very impressed with Ryan and his attention to detail.
If you think I'm hosed ... fine. I won't debate that. I do a LOT of experimentation and find obscure parts that seem to work very well.
Ask me about a set of "half-assed" front coil-overs for under $200 ... that are working GREAT on 2 CMC F-Bodys.
-0.8 to -1.0 camber
+4.0 to +4.5 caster
zero toe
The Nitto DR is a great tire ... let out some air to 18-20 psi for a good drag launch and air them up to 32-34 for some good cornering traction.
As far as suspension parts go, LGMotorsports has been the tried and true place to get good quality parts. UMI and Unbalanced Engineering also market good quality parts.
You can't go wrong with Strano's 35mm front sway bar. That 25mm ST or even the 25mm 3rd gen bar will make the car very loose (tail happy), unless you get a big enough spring rate to handle. Being as these are daily drivers, I wouldn't suggest it. Your kidneys will hate you.
A set of G2 Super Springs with Bilstein HD shocks have worked great on my street track car for 4 years. Unlike urban legend, they have not disintegrated, blown up or just plain fallen off the car. Now, has Bilstein changed the HD? Could be ... that I don't know ...
A Strano 35 front bar and a '93 1LE year bar will compliment those springs and shocks nicely.
Aluminum UMI LCAs with rod ends will give the best flexibility, with binding like a poly bushing will. I suggest a steel PHB, though. I've seen aluminum bars flex.
This is all just MHO. I know there are those out there that think my recommendations are way off base. But this set up has worked for me for years ... except for UMI ... they are a relative newcomer and I have been very impressed with Ryan and his attention to detail.
If you think I'm hosed ... fine. I won't debate that. I do a LOT of experimentation and find obscure parts that seem to work very well.
Ask me about a set of "half-assed" front coil-overs for under $200 ... that are working GREAT on 2 CMC F-Bodys.
I apprecaite your recommedations and support. It will not be forgotten
Best Regards,
Ryan
05-09-2005, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by setxws6
No, no, not none of the above. IMO this is what I would do if I were you.....First get the BMR lca, adj phb, and stb. Second, would be sway bars. After one then two, your car will feel very solid on the road and you will get very little body roll. Third would be the springs and shocks. They will help in the handling, plus give you a better stance. But I wouldn't get lowered before you get the swaybars. You may have clearance problems without lowered with out swaybars. I love mine. They make the car so tight around corners. I would hold off on the roll bar or cage until you get some serious Hp and plan on going to the track often.
Oh, and don't forget, when you lower your car, you'll need lca relocation brackets and a front end alignment. So do it.
I would hold off on the roll bar or cage until you get some serious Hp and plan on going to the track often.Oh, and don't forget, when you lower your car, you'll need lca relocation brackets and a front end alignment. So do it.