Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors
View Poll Results: What should my 1st suspension mod be?
Sway Bars - (35/25 Strano)
12.41%
Springs & Shocks - (BMR & Bilsteins)
45.62%
LCAs, Adj PHB & STB - (BMR)
39.05%
Rollbar & Seats - (BMR & Corbeau)
2.92%
Voters: 274. You may not vote on this poll

First Suspension Mod Poll

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Old May 5, 2005 | 07:52 PM
  #1  
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Default First Suspension Mod Poll

What should I start with? Keep in mind I have a WS6 and BMR SFCs already. The options will be taken as a package, for exapmle I will not get springs without shocks.

Last edited by Nick D; May 5, 2005 at 07:59 PM.
Old May 5, 2005 | 07:58 PM
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I want the car for occassional drag strip fun, but mostly for canyon carving and everyday fun. This is my sole daily driver.
Old May 5, 2005 | 09:10 PM
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I don't see a place to vote for "None of the above"?
Old May 5, 2005 | 09:48 PM
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i'm with Mitch... none of the above.
definitely shocks.
if doing springs + shocks, I would not suggest bmr, though.
Old May 5, 2005 | 10:14 PM
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Why none of the above?
Old May 6, 2005 | 12:40 AM
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No, no, not none of the above. IMO this is what I would do if I were you.....First get the BMR lca, adj phb, and stb. Second, would be sway bars. After one then two, your car will feel very solid on the road and you will get very little body roll. Third would be the springs and shocks. They will help in the handling, plus give you a better stance. But I wouldn't get lowered before you get the swaybars. You may have clearance problems without lowered with out swaybars. I love mine. They make the car so tight around corners. I would hold off on the roll bar or cage until you get some serious Hp and plan on going to the track often.

Oh, and don't forget, when you lower your car, you'll need lca relocation brackets and a front end alignment. So do it.
Old May 6, 2005 | 01:21 AM
  #7  
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How are a rollbar and seats a suspension mod. Unless you count the seats suspending your *** or the bar suspending your body when you flip?

Shocks first.

Are WS6 LCA 1LE parts? If yes, you should swap them. They arent worth much, but I'll take them off your hands for a couple of bucks.
Old May 6, 2005 | 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Nick D
Why none of the above?
BMR = K-Mart

Tires and alignment make the biggest difference in handling
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Old May 6, 2005 | 09:02 AM
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I did:

1. SFC's
2. LCA's
3. APHB
4. Sway Bars
5. STB
6. Lowering Springs & Shocks
7. GS D3's
Old May 6, 2005 | 01:19 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
BMR = K-Mart

Tires and alignment make the biggest difference in handling
Listen to Mitch he is handling wise man

Or learn the hard way . . .
Old May 6, 2005 | 05:42 PM
  #11  
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Mitch, what do you suggest then?
Old May 6, 2005 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick D
Mitch, what do you suggest then?
What are good alignment settings and good tires in stock sizes?
Old May 6, 2005 | 08:48 PM
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For all around driving ...

-0.8 to -1.0 camber
+4.0 to +4.5 caster
zero toe

The Nitto DR is a great tire ... let out some air to 18-20 psi for a good drag launch and air them up to 32-34 for some good cornering traction.

As far as suspension parts go, LGMotorsports has been the tried and true place to get good quality parts. UMI and Unbalanced Engineering also market good quality parts.

You can't go wrong with Strano's 35mm front sway bar. That 25mm ST or even the 25mm 3rd gen bar will make the car very loose (tail happy), unless you get a big enough spring rate to handle. Being as these are daily drivers, I wouldn't suggest it. Your kidneys will hate you.

A set of G2 Super Springs with Bilstein HD shocks have worked great on my street track car for 4 years. Unlike urban legend, they have not disintegrated, blown up or just plain fallen off the car. Now, has Bilstein changed the HD? Could be ... that I don't know ...

A Strano 35 front bar and a '93 1LE year bar will compliment those springs and shocks nicely.

Aluminum UMI LCAs with rod ends will give the best flexibility, with binding like a poly bushing will. I suggest a steel PHB, though. I've seen aluminum bars flex.

This is all just MHO. I know there are those out there that think my recommendations are way off base. But this set up has worked for me for years ... except for UMI ... they are a relative newcomer and I have been very impressed with Ryan and his attention to detail.

If you think I'm hosed ... fine. I won't debate that. I do a LOT of experimentation and find obscure parts that seem to work very well.

Ask me about a set of "half-assed" front coil-overs for under $200 ... that are working GREAT on 2 CMC F-Bodys.
Old May 6, 2005 | 11:36 PM
  #14  
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Mitch, I appreciate your valuable input. This site has some nice suspension info:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fastcar/suspension.html
Being that G2 springs will drop the car 1.5 inches, I wanted to stay away from them. I wanted to drop the car between 0.75 and 1.00 inches, and NO MORE!!!! What else do you guys suggest?
Old May 7, 2005 | 03:09 PM
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i would say SFC's and then springs/shox. Good luck with whatever you decide though.

Brad
Old May 7, 2005 | 07:08 PM
  #16  
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I have BMR Boxed SFCs already on the car.
Old May 8, 2005 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mitchntx
For all around driving ...

-0.8 to -1.0 camber
+4.0 to +4.5 caster
zero toe

The Nitto DR is a great tire ... let out some air to 18-20 psi for a good drag launch and air them up to 32-34 for some good cornering traction.

As far as suspension parts go, LGMotorsports has been the tried and true place to get good quality parts. UMI and Unbalanced Engineering also market good quality parts.

You can't go wrong with Strano's 35mm front sway bar. That 25mm ST or even the 25mm 3rd gen bar will make the car very loose (tail happy), unless you get a big enough spring rate to handle. Being as these are daily drivers, I wouldn't suggest it. Your kidneys will hate you.

A set of G2 Super Springs with Bilstein HD shocks have worked great on my street track car for 4 years. Unlike urban legend, they have not disintegrated, blown up or just plain fallen off the car. Now, has Bilstein changed the HD? Could be ... that I don't know ...

A Strano 35 front bar and a '93 1LE year bar will compliment those springs and shocks nicely.

Aluminum UMI LCAs with rod ends will give the best flexibility, with binding like a poly bushing will. I suggest a steel PHB, though. I've seen aluminum bars flex.

This is all just MHO. I know there are those out there that think my recommendations are way off base. But this set up has worked for me for years ... except for UMI ... they are a relative newcomer and I have been very impressed with Ryan and his attention to detail.

If you think I'm hosed ... fine. I won't debate that. I do a LOT of experimentation and find obscure parts that seem to work very well.

Ask me about a set of "half-assed" front coil-overs for under $200 ... that are working GREAT on 2 CMC F-Bodys.
Mitch,

I apprecaite your recommedations and support. It will not be forgotten

Best Regards,
Ryan
Old May 8, 2005 | 05:26 PM
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Ryan, quality parts bubble to the surface while the "also rans" clammer for the guys who confuse "feeling a difference" with "feeling an improvement".

And you have a PM ...
Old May 9, 2005 | 09:43 AM
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how come no one ever mentions H&R springs? everyone always tells me they are the best for handling. how do they stack up against the G2s?
Old May 9, 2005 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by setxws6
No, no, not none of the above. IMO this is what I would do if I were you.....First get the BMR lca, adj phb, and stb. Second, would be sway bars. After one then two, your car will feel very solid on the road and you will get very little body roll. Third would be the springs and shocks. They will help in the handling, plus give you a better stance. But I wouldn't get lowered before you get the swaybars. You may have clearance problems without lowered with out swaybars. I love mine. They make the car so tight around corners. I would hold off on the roll bar or cage until you get some serious Hp and plan on going to the track often.

Oh, and don't forget, when you lower your car, you'll need lca relocation brackets and a front end alignment. So do it.
Whatever you choose to do, just don't listen to this advice.



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