pimpmaro

Hotchkiss, SLP, or BMR from what it looks like... I'm currently working on an independant database, but I really don't have much in the way of data yet.

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fastcar/suspension.html

Cal

iTrader: (1)

True, a good roll bar or cage will do the same thing as SFC's, only better. I kinda like my SLP SFC's as a jacking rail, though.

For springs, I suggest you use ERS (Eibach Racing Springs) with Ground Control adjusters. That way YOU pick the spring rate, and YOU adjust the ride height to what you need.

Sonicmix

I chose to do springs and shocks (Coilovers), and I'm very happy with the way the car handles now. My next suspension mod will probably be SFC's

TheHawk14

I'm about to do almost the same thing as Nick here

I've read every post (unfortunately) and I do have some questions
I will likely be getting the Koni SA's and springs, however I'm not concerned with lowering my car only 1 inch
Can some of you please explain what the amount of lowering the car does for the handling? Nick says he doesn't want to go more than 1 inch period, I don't completely understand why he is saying this. What will lowering more than 1 inch do to affect the handling of the car?

I assume Nick doesn't want to lower more than 1 inch due to clearance issues in his area. Clarification on this for me would be great =) along with some suggestions for springs to go along with the Koni SA's

Keep in mind I am looking for the same end result as Nick, however I've not been to the drag strip with my car yet, and don't really plan to take it there. My car is purely a street daily driver (no street racing or autocrossing) just looking for more stability in corners and to have some fun hugging the curves.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Rollbar will practically stiffen out the car considering it is extending your frame into the interior of the car. more ridgid.

WADDISME

iTrader: (4)

WOW!! What a great thread once you get past the BS. I too am looking to start modding. My warranty is up at the end of the month and the suspension is one of the first ones. My car is a daily driver thru curvy and hilly roads to work - I live in the foothills of NC. I just want to upgrade so I can have some fun hugging curves and working on the car with my 14 yr old. From what I get from this thread, UMI SFCs and the Koni SAs would be all I need. I have no desire to lower car (unless there is a good reason), will probably never be autox, but may be taken to the strip one day. If I have missed something let me know.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

The shocks are a must, and Koni's are a kick-*** choice. But I'd not be so quick about the SFC's. They are never a bad idea, but the car really doesn't need them. Case in point, a woman I know has a '96 1LE. It has 340,000 miles on it, it gets drag raced, autoxed and open tracked. Has since new. No SFC's and the car is still nice and solid, 90% of the rattles it had were fixed a few weeks back when $10 worth of change was pulled out from under the seats.

I know it's not a popular idea, but the car is just not as flexible as it seems. The lousy stock shocks make it much worse becaue impacts that should be damped out aren't, they get into the body and make it quiver. Those that add SFC's find a difference for that reason. However, some real dampers also pretty much cure the problem themselves and ride and handle better too.

Then I'd take the $$$ I didn't spend on the SFC's and add a set of swaybars to control the body roll better.

I don't hide the fact that if my car were not a Nationally built autox car (that I still drive a lot), but a daily driver that I have fun with that I'd have a set of Koni's and a set of my bars on it, a decent alignment, some good tires and that's about it..... That's what a difference a proper set of bars and some great shocks will make.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Kind of agree on that one Sam. I had no subframes, until about 57K. Installed some KBDD's, and I couldn't tell a difference (no placebo effect on me). Took them off at about 103K and still didn't detect a difference (still no placebo effect). I would also mention that my F-body is a T-top model. Some T-tops even have some give where the windscreen meets the roof panel, however I wonder if the SFC's would even resovle that, because on mine, it didn't change that aspect.

Just for kicks Sam, I had telephoned your tech line once, and your mother shared the same with the same response as you did. I even practised on several road courses with and without the SFC's. I believe that the consensus on this board would be to install them first before any mod, however I wonder about that since that's what I did.

In any case, I'd say try changing the dampers first before considering SFC's.

(BTW, removing the KBDD's were the biggest PIA I have ever dealt with.)

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

Good thread. I am thinking about Koni's. What model should I go with? Should I buy new springs or not?

Bill

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

That's something we'd have to discuss. Both the shocks and whether or not you'd need or want springs, or go some other way like upgrading you front bar from the 32mm to a 35......

sgarnett

iTrader: (1)

The main reason I want SFCs is just to have a better support for jacking the car.

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

They work great for that.

Bill

sunsetta

iTrader: (3)

Subframe connectors FIRST.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Yet another vote for SFC's first... from someone who doesn't have better shocks or swaybars installed. Not saying they don't help, only saying you can't compare/contrast them if you haven't experienced both changes.

SSpeedracer

iTrader: (8)

I welded KBDD subframes on after swapping shocks. But I've got a convertible and saw dimples form on a friends convertible. They did stiffen the car and reduce squeeks. However, I hate the lost ride height and added weight.

In hind sight I should of had custom subframe connectors welded up with bar stock. I saw some examples and was impressed.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

don't know what you're doing with the vehicle, however since you do have a convertible, it does come equipped with a factory SFC. I can see in your instance where you'd prefer an upgrade of the factory SFC's, however for handling purposes, they don't solve the problems of a misconfigured suspension.

SSpeedracer

iTrader: (8)

Foxxton, Car has been in autox and open track. Now daily driver with dreams of FI.

If you follow the thread above (after the bitch slap stuff) you'll notice that sunsetta and Sam disagree about SFC. I was merely pointing out that SFC are extremely important to anyone that intends to beat on a f-body convertible. Aside from the potentail damage caused by flexing the unibody, the entire suspension will be affected by chassis flex. Increasing the dampening rate with performance shocks or thicker sway bars will increase chassis flex. This can be offset with a stiffer chassis... SFC.

If I were building a coupe, weight reduction would be my primary goal and SFC may not be as important. How many misguided people race 3800lb convertibles?

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

My .02 cents worth.

I would get Koni's 4/3 because you know pretty much where the shock should be set..pretty much toward soft..and save the 100 bucks most people just leave it almost soft or one turn. I wouldn't lower it. Springs just take a lot of body roll out I would get sams bars 35/22.

Konis 725.00
Bars 400.00

And I think you will have a big when you drive the car when these changed out. Do the lower perch and hose mod that will close the gap some and lower it some.

I wouldn't worry about SFC,STB(Even though I got one it was cheap) etc etc. I would do these 2 things first then see where/if you want to go anywhere else in this car...

Koni's make a big difference. And the good set of tires.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

how does one tell if they have 1le springs i bought my car with 75k on it and im not sure if it does or dosent.

i decided to go with koni sa w/ perch mod and heater hose mod.
my car is a dd, goes to the track once a month. driven fast will not do auto x but i like to go fast on some turns.
i want it to ride good on the street and have a good stance.

but how easy is it to adjust the koni sa's

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

Well I would think your car would have the 1LE RPO code if you had them springs...most cars did NOT have these.