JGA

Hi

Can anyone tell me if using a level pad and jackstands (4)under the rear axel and front A arms equivalent to using a drive on ramp? I have been told that as long as the pad is level and the car is level to the pad, it is equivalent. I just want to verify this before I proceed.

Thanks JA

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

It's probably not. Even if you put the jack stands as far out on the front LCA it is still not going to replicate the normal ride height. If one of the jack stands is a bit taller than the others it will twist the body slightly. Will these small differences creat a bad install, probably not. I still wouldn't say that it is equivalent to a drive on lift, though.

JGA

Hi
I agree it is not exactelly the same, but it is definately close enough. You do have to use a precisely leveled pad and be careful when positioning the jack stands. The install is now completed and the doors fit perfectly and the car drives straight as an arrow. The guy who installed them has been doing it for 25 years with jack stands and a pad, so I took his word on it. He did an excellent job and my car handles much better with the subframe. It also turned out to be cheeper to fabricate them from scratch then buying and installing aftermarket units.
Thanks JA

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Can you describe how the handling changed? I'm thinking of getting some, but some people have said they can feel no difference. So I just don't know.

JGA

Hi
Keep in mind I have a T-Top car.

1) Less rattle, shake and wiggle over rough surfaces.
2) Launches straighter line
3) More stable/predictable in corners. Less lateral movement felt from rear axle.
4) Feels good.
5) Cost effectrive upgrade at $400.

The only negative is that it does now transmit alot more jar/thud into the cabin over big bumps/holes. No big deal.

The better units use 2" square tube or some type of bracing like the double diamond units. I have never heard of anyone complaining about them. In my opinion stay away from 1 5/8" round tube.

Thnaks JA

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Thanks.
I'm guessing the "more jar/thud into the cabin over big bumps/holes" is due to the body no longer flexing to absorb those forces and they are instead being transmitted more efficiently to the suspension.

I was looking at the UMI SFC which are similar to the BMR boxed. Did you install the SLP one's? Because $400 is a lot.

JGA

Hi
The UMI/BMR ones are very popular and from what I have read on this site both are very good. I don't think you can go wrong.

My units were custom built. They use 2" square tube like the UMI/BMR units. However they are stich welded down the pinch on each side and have a v-brace that ties into the tunnel mounts sort of like the LG Motorsport units. Metal plates were also welded between the control arm mounts and the inner frame rails for extra support. They are most likely a little stiffer then the UMI/BMR units.

One thing I noticed is that the UMI/BMR units do hang down about 1/2" below the pinch. I am note sure why they do this. On my car the 2" square tube tucks up completely into the pinch area. I assume this is one advantage to hand fitting the components before they are welded together. However this is not a big deal as your exhaust system will still be the lowest point on your car. So you realy won't loose any clearance.

As for the jar/thud, I also assume it is because the chassis is more rigid and transmits vibration more efficently. However, the rest of the suspension is stock and as we both know the factory DeCarbon shock are garbage. I am shure a good set of Koni's will fix it up. On thing I noticed when I had my car jacked up, was the way the rear wheels bounced around in the air. The DeCarbon shocks have poor dampening.

Thanks JA

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

OK, now I definetly need pics. Have any?

JGA

Jason
By the way $400 is not alot for Canada. The BMR units cost about $175 US. But look what happens when you import them into Canada:

Cost: $175
Shipping: $50
After Exchange:$283.50
UPS Brokerage: $36.70
COD: $4.25
GST/PST: 14%
Total: $ 370.00
Labor for 4 hours for install plus GST/PST = $300
So I would spend about $650 for BMR units.
The UPS guys are real money pigs.

Thanks JA

JGA

Hi

I will get photos next time it is on a ramp, which is in about 2 weeks whan I install the MAC headers. I will post them here or you can send me a private message.

Thanks JA

No Juice

iTrader: (11)

JasonWW
From what I have read and researched is that if you do alot of road racing the DD style is much better, but not needed as much if you primarily drag race. For drag racing the two point style will be plenty. I will be adding the Kenny Browns soon. Here are some pics:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=KBDD

OWENMUSTANG

iTrader: (2)

subs tie the front together with the rear. makes the suspenion work instead of the body flexing. i could tell the difference with my hardtop when going over train tracks. if you have t-tops or a vert, subs are manditory! anyway, in day to day driving the difference depends on the road. subs will help keep your car feeling "tighter" for longer.

i used KBDD's but any quality sub will work.

FBDYLVR

iTrader: (14)

Are you welding these in? I installed my bolt-ins with 2 sets of ramps, back the car onto the rear ramps, jack the front of the car and set it on two ramps.

Nova5

4 hours labor? are they idiots? took an hour for the guys i had do it, and thats due to having to wait on a guy to finish up with something on antoher car to help the guy doing mine.