ABS kicking in?
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About 2 months ago I had rotors and ceramic pads put on the front of my 02 Z28. They felt real slick and car didn't stop as well. After a few days the straight ahead stopping was ok but around quick turns they would feel like the front brakes slipped and my brake peddle would surge and then the brakes would catch. Felt like hitting a ice patch. I took it to the shop today and had them take off the ceramic pads and put semi metallic ones on. On the way home it did the slip around a corner once. Could have been because they were just put on, but wanted some opinions. Car had 30,000 miles. Started this after the front brakes were done, never a problem before this. I can hear a click sometimes in the front brake or brakes when I haven't braked for awhile. the guy said my sensor was not showing the same ohms on both sides, but what I have read they are in the good range. I did put gears in the car 3:42's on a A4, but never had a problem until the brake change and gears were done 10 months ago. All my tires are the same size as stock too. Even at the drag strip at the end of the 1/4 mile I have had the front brakes let loose and catch and could hear them chirp, never did this with the stock brakes. I have never seen the ABS light come on except when I went to the dyno and went off a few seconds after driving the car, also I have never had a code show up and all codes are clear in pcm.
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Nobody has a idea? It still does it around a quick corner, slip and catch. Not as bad as with the ceramic pads, but the click sounds like the front drivers side, a click every once in awhile after periods of not using the brakes. Could it be some type of shim wasn't put in? I have no clue about brakes.
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Sounds to me like a cracked master cylinder...
My mother had a 98 Lumina when it was new, like in 2001 we knew we were going to get her a new minivan, and the Lumina started acting up... She would complain that the break pedal did nothing sometimes...
So I replaced the pads and rotors (they were not too bad, but I replaced them anyways)... Its fine for a few days and then the problem seems to only get worse... I take it on a test drive, it is acting fine so I decide to test it at a higher speed... I take it down my dirt road and hit 90, start getting on the brakes and nothing happens... now there is a canal not to far away. I manage to stop the car and decide it had to be something with the ABS, we replaced everything in the braking system (except master cylinder) and it still did it.
Finally we replace the master cylinder and it goes away.
My mother had a 98 Lumina when it was new, like in 2001 we knew we were going to get her a new minivan, and the Lumina started acting up... She would complain that the break pedal did nothing sometimes...
So I replaced the pads and rotors (they were not too bad, but I replaced them anyways)... Its fine for a few days and then the problem seems to only get worse... I take it on a test drive, it is acting fine so I decide to test it at a higher speed... I take it down my dirt road and hit 90, start getting on the brakes and nothing happens... now there is a canal not to far away. I manage to stop the car and decide it had to be something with the ABS, we replaced everything in the braking system (except master cylinder) and it still did it.
Finally we replace the master cylinder and it goes away.
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What do you mean by the brake pedal would surge? If the abs is coming on then the pedal would vibrate, and you would hear the abs motor making noise under the hood. The light will not come on the dash. Also does it ever happen at low speed stops? It could be possible that you have a bad wheel speed sensor. At low speeds (like around a corner) the sensor stops sending a signal, and the abs module reads that as if the wheel stopped spinning, or locked up.
#7
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It depends on what you remove. I JUST weighed an LT1 bracket as well as the modulator and computer which you can remove with our kits. I don't have an LS1 setup handy to weigh right now, but the weight should be very close as the bracket is similar as well as the ABS unit and computer.
The three pieces weighed 14lbs 9 ounces on a calibrated shipping scale. You can also remove the associated wiring which I’m sure will weigh another 2 lbs.
Our ABS delete kits which are available in a variety of styles to suit many needs. They all come with the necessary proportioning valve to retain correct bias between front/rear wheels.
Steve
The three pieces weighed 14lbs 9 ounces on a calibrated shipping scale. You can also remove the associated wiring which I’m sure will weigh another 2 lbs.
Our ABS delete kits which are available in a variety of styles to suit many needs. They all come with the necessary proportioning valve to retain correct bias between front/rear wheels.
Steve
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To the poster, a possible explaination of why ABS may be kicking in more frequently (besides for the fact you may have a sensor or malfunction with your ABS system). Changing to different brake pads, different rotors etc changes the bias of your braking. You may be locking up the fronts or rears easier which would set ABS off.
ABS is very troublesome on the race track albeit drag or road race.
ABS is very troublesome on the race track albeit drag or road race.