who has aftermarket brakes? BAER/Brembo/willwood?
12-19-2005, 08:11 PM
#82
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Originally Posted by Speedpup
My impression are go with the Wilwood SL6 from LGM for 17" wheels. You can run NAPA rotor for 25 ea if they are the same as a C5. I switched to Stoptech Two piece rotors with slots and they felt great. They have better vanes. I have no long term test but know some that got great mileage form them. I crack the NAPAS in 2 days.
I have no boots on anything I drive on the street they just burn up on my Excursion, C4 Grand Sport, or my Dodge Dooley. They are a waste and the brake piston does slide in and out like a sawzall and suck dirt in anyway.
Wilwood SL6 from LGM has some nice thick pads .80" and you can buy mica heat shields cheap, SS shims or aluminum shims cheap also to keep the pistons in the bore as the pads wear. Common pad #7420 shape which a ton of manufacutures make pads for. They work great and I get my rotors glowing red at the track. The caliper get so hot the black caliper are now copper color as the anodizing changed color. So if you are budget minded they are great.
Second option is Stoptech for LGM which are great but more money and 18" wheels required.
If you have the coin the AP setup is great also. Just a matter of money.
If you are using any other brake fluid than Castrol SRF you are wasting your money even though it cost more. I ran 1000 HARD track miles before a bleeding them. I should have went 999 because I was coming up on Devils turn at Pocono and decide the cones were my better option. 1000 miles of glowing rotors is a lot to ask of a fluid.
Buy products off people who make race cars and run them like LGM.
Boots are
They were BLACK they take a lickin but keep on tick'in
LGM Wilwoods
I didn't even remeber the caliper were black until I called LG to match the color and he told me what happen
I have no boots on anything I drive on the street they just burn up on my Excursion, C4 Grand Sport, or my Dodge Dooley. They are a waste and the brake piston does slide in and out like a sawzall and suck dirt in anyway.
Wilwood SL6 from LGM has some nice thick pads .80" and you can buy mica heat shields cheap, SS shims or aluminum shims cheap also to keep the pistons in the bore as the pads wear. Common pad #7420 shape which a ton of manufacutures make pads for. They work great and I get my rotors glowing red at the track. The caliper get so hot the black caliper are now copper color as the anodizing changed color. So if you are budget minded they are great.
Second option is Stoptech for LGM which are great but more money and 18" wheels required.
If you have the coin the AP setup is great also. Just a matter of money.
If you are using any other brake fluid than Castrol SRF you are wasting your money even though it cost more. I ran 1000 HARD track miles before a bleeding them. I should have went 999 because I was coming up on Devils turn at Pocono and decide the cones were my better option. 1000 miles of glowing rotors is a lot to ask of a fluid.
Buy products off people who make race cars and run them like LGM.
Boots are
They were BLACK they take a lickin but keep on tick'in
LGM Wilwoods I didn't even remeber the caliper were black until I called LG to match the color and he told me what happen
12-19-2005, 08:15 PM
#83
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I am good and abusing anything mechanical. Motorcycles, race boats (Skaters) and everyday drivers. If you not taking it to the limit why bother 
Debating the Stoptech or just throw some Wilwood 4 piston caliper on the rear. I need more HP 
Boots are for snow only!
Debating the Stoptech or just throw some Wilwood 4 piston caliper on the rear. I need more HP Boots are for snow only! 
05-17-2006, 09:16 PM
#86
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Well I had to give some input Howdy all,
Well hell, I don’t know how I missed this thread for so long, Im not spending enough time on the board. I see this has been quite the thread, and while I feel like I kinda missed the bulk of the discussion, I also feel that I have a bit of input that may be well received. I hope I don’t bore you guys!!
You know, one of the things I hear most with the people I talk with are dust shields, and I could probably go as far as to say that is one of the most heated debates in the big brake industry. Now of course, I can not speak for all companies, but I can say that the reasons that Wilwood does not generally use dust shields is that they use a very high quality stainless steel in their piston design. I talk to people all the time that have been using Wilwood calipers for years with out problems caused by the lack of the shields, and they really just one more thing being exposed to heat.
On the other side of it, I can see why people see these things as a necessity. It makes sense that you would want to protect the pistons as much as possible. Also, with today’s polymer technologies there are many substances that can handle repeated contact with heat, but I am sure we can all agree that heat does effect things in one way or another. Honestly, we should consider rebuilding our calipers every so often just to make sure they are in perfect working order, and this is generally pretty inexpensive. I just recently replaced my calipers, and yea they have dust boots because they are OE stuff, but I think that in the world of the aftermarket, we should be dealing with good enough products that we can trust the manufacture and go with their suggestions especially when they have been in business for such a long time. Clearly they had to put some research into their product, so with out a doubt, they know it best.
Finally, I noticed the issue of calipers making noise, and this too is one of the things I hear a lot about. Considering what calipers are, I don’t see how one could be any less noisy than another. I mean really a caliper is a block of material bored out for pistons with an inlet for fluid, and while there is much debate as to which is better, it seems that most calipers a somewhat similar in design unless they are floating. What I generally see from my customers is an issue with noise cause by pad selection. The thing about a Wilwood kit is that you are bound to their pads, but there are ways to get the performance you need and retain the comfort you desire. This is why we carry several pads companies to provide our customer with a pad that really fits their needs. Normally when I hear a complaint about noise, I suggest a different pad compound, and the problem is solved.
Ok ok enough rambilin, I will leave it at that.
I am really going to make it a point to be on here more, cuz when I am ready to install an LS1 in my vehicle, I may just be asking you guys for help. And I gotta have an F body someday
Peace
Well hell, I don’t know how I missed this thread for so long, Im not spending enough time on the board. I see this has been quite the thread, and while I feel like I kinda missed the bulk of the discussion, I also feel that I have a bit of input that may be well received. I hope I don’t bore you guys!!
You know, one of the things I hear most with the people I talk with are dust shields, and I could probably go as far as to say that is one of the most heated debates in the big brake industry. Now of course, I can not speak for all companies, but I can say that the reasons that Wilwood does not generally use dust shields is that they use a very high quality stainless steel in their piston design. I talk to people all the time that have been using Wilwood calipers for years with out problems caused by the lack of the shields, and they really just one more thing being exposed to heat.
On the other side of it, I can see why people see these things as a necessity. It makes sense that you would want to protect the pistons as much as possible. Also, with today’s polymer technologies there are many substances that can handle repeated contact with heat, but I am sure we can all agree that heat does effect things in one way or another. Honestly, we should consider rebuilding our calipers every so often just to make sure they are in perfect working order, and this is generally pretty inexpensive. I just recently replaced my calipers, and yea they have dust boots because they are OE stuff, but I think that in the world of the aftermarket, we should be dealing with good enough products that we can trust the manufacture and go with their suggestions especially when they have been in business for such a long time. Clearly they had to put some research into their product, so with out a doubt, they know it best.
Finally, I noticed the issue of calipers making noise, and this too is one of the things I hear a lot about. Considering what calipers are, I don’t see how one could be any less noisy than another. I mean really a caliper is a block of material bored out for pistons with an inlet for fluid, and while there is much debate as to which is better, it seems that most calipers a somewhat similar in design unless they are floating. What I generally see from my customers is an issue with noise cause by pad selection. The thing about a Wilwood kit is that you are bound to their pads, but there are ways to get the performance you need and retain the comfort you desire. This is why we carry several pads companies to provide our customer with a pad that really fits their needs. Normally when I hear a complaint about noise, I suggest a different pad compound, and the problem is solved.
Ok ok enough rambilin, I will leave it at that.
I am really going to make it a point to be on here more, cuz when I am ready to install an LS1 in my vehicle, I may just be asking you guys for help. And I gotta have an F body someday
Peace
05-17-2006, 09:20 PM
#87
Victor,
I agree with you about pad compounds. I had Hawk HP+ pads on my brakes and they were very noisy (high pitched squeal when easing up to a light). A pad swap changed it and it's mostly gone (now running Ferodo DS2500's). The Carbotech Panther XP8's were also mostly quiet (the occasional squeak), but the Hawks had a specific amount of pad "bite" that required a specific pedal pressure to stop a certain way....and they made tons of noise under that condition.
Pads can make noise, but a pad swap will often change the characteristics of the pad/rotor/caliper/line pressure interface enough to cure or minimize the problem. I've experienced this first hand.
I agree with you about pad compounds. I had Hawk HP+ pads on my brakes and they were very noisy (high pitched squeal when easing up to a light). A pad swap changed it and it's mostly gone (now running Ferodo DS2500's). The Carbotech Panther XP8's were also mostly quiet (the occasional squeak), but the Hawks had a specific amount of pad "bite" that required a specific pedal pressure to stop a certain way....and they made tons of noise under that condition.
Pads can make noise, but a pad swap will often change the characteristics of the pad/rotor/caliper/line pressure interface enough to cure or minimize the problem. I've experienced this first hand.
05-17-2006, 09:27 PM
#88
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Thanks trackbird,
It is always good to hear other peoples input. It is amazing how much pads can make a diffrence...
It is always good to hear other peoples input. It is amazing how much pads can make a diffrence...
Originally Posted by trackbird
Victor,
I agree with you about pad compounds. I had Hawk HP+ pads on my brakes and they were very noisy (high pitched squeal when easing up to a light). A pad swap changed it and it's mostly gone (now running Ferodo DS2500's). The Carbotech Panther XP8's were also mostly quiet (the occasional squeak), but the Hawks had a specific amount of pad "bite" that required a specific pedal pressure to stop a certain way....and they made tons of noise under that condition.
Pads can make noise, but a pad swap will often change the characteristics of the pad/rotor/caliper/line pressure interface enough to cure or minimize the problem. I've experienced this first hand.
I agree with you about pad compounds. I had Hawk HP+ pads on my brakes and they were very noisy (high pitched squeal when easing up to a light). A pad swap changed it and it's mostly gone (now running Ferodo DS2500's). The Carbotech Panther XP8's were also mostly quiet (the occasional squeak), but the Hawks had a specific amount of pad "bite" that required a specific pedal pressure to stop a certain way....and they made tons of noise under that condition.
Pads can make noise, but a pad swap will often change the characteristics of the pad/rotor/caliper/line pressure interface enough to cure or minimize the problem. I've experienced this first hand.
