Intalling lowering springs.
Have even better luck getting the bolt off of the passenger side front shock to disassemble. I had to destroy my shock to get it off. For some reason on these cars water collects in there and rusts the **** out of it. Had to cut the bolt off and slice through the shaft to get it off. This was after lots and lots of break free and air tools. Just be prepared when you do the install however you do it and have some new shocks ready.
I'm not the only one.
PS. Stangkiller, put some pics of yr car up man! I wanna see that color!
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The rears are easier to do if your doing springs only, alot easier. If your doing the shocks on the rear also, that is a pain the the *** because you have to lift up the carpet in the rear. It's doable with a few tools and you can do it in your driveway. You don't need as many tools for the rear but it would save alot of money to do the rear springs and shocks yourself if you worried about doing the fronts and wanted a pro to do them. The front is a bit more complicated. On the driver front you need to unbolt the Master Cylinder and slide the ABS control module forward to get to the Torx bolts. On the passenger front you may not be able to salvage the stock shock from terrible rusting on the top nut. And just putting the assembly back in the car can be a real pain in the *** too! I'm not telling you that you can't do it because I spent about 5 hrs. installing my ground controls yesterday. (First install took 10 hrs. almost a year ago when I did my prokit and HD's) The longest part of the install for was adjusting the sleeves and getting the car to sit how I wanted which you don't do with regular springs. Here's some pics of the install.


Today my knuckles, forearms, and thighs are sore. It's worth it though, and I spent 25 dollars in time at the shop on Ft. Carson. Military guys have access to lifts, paint bays, and any tool you could think of for a few bucks an hour.
Last edited by joblo1978; Jul 16, 2005 at 01:08 AM.

