HELP! Just installed Trak Pak and relocation brackets, now BAD vibration from rear!
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I just got a BMR Trak Pak and relocation brackets installed today. Now over 80 mph there is a bad vibration you can feel in the seat of your pants. It wasn't there before and I rechecked the pinion angle and its set at -2 degrees. Is that where it should be? I also noticed the rear is now a little out of square. Guess I will have to get some adjustable LCAs to fix that. Could that cause any vibrations? It dead hooks now but the high speed vibrations kinda got me worried!
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Originally Posted by SSblack98
I just got a BMR Trak Pak and relocation brackets installed today. Now over 80 mph there is a bad vibration you can feel in the seat of your pants. It wasn't there before and I rechecked the pinion angle and its set at -2 degrees. Is that where it should be? I also noticed the rear is now a little out of square. Guess I will have to get some adjustable LCAs to fix that. Could that cause any vibrations? It dead hooks now but the high speed vibrations kinda got me worried! ![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
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I don't think you would need anything else to get everythign to line up and work correctly. Just needs to be installed correctly. Looking at how it's set up on the BMR site I can see how if that crossmember isn't installed straight it could throw the rear out of whack. Yours may be installed incorrectly. It also sais this on BMR's site.
NOTE: Will not work with "diamond style" subframe connectors. Use of this product will produce additional road noise and is recommended for the serious enthusiast only. For questions please call or e-mail.
Maybe that's what's happening.
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Originally Posted by joblo1978
I don't think you would need anything else to get everythign to line up and work correctly. Just needs to be installed correctly. Looking at how it's set up on the BMR site I can see how if that crossmember isn't installed straight it could throw the rear out of whack. Yours may be installed incorrectly. It also sais this on BMR's site.
NOTE: Will not work with "diamond style" subframe connectors. Use of this product will produce additional road noise and is recommended for the serious enthusiast only. For questions please call or e-mail.
Maybe that's what's happening.![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
NOTE: Will not work with "diamond style" subframe connectors. Use of this product will produce additional road noise and is recommended for the serious enthusiast only. For questions please call or e-mail.
Maybe that's what's happening.
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vibrations from the rear are caused by U joints binding (in this case). That can occur from a misaligned rear end. road noise, squeeks, etc are more of what BMR is intending.
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Originally Posted by SSactionLs1
vibrations from the rear are caused by U joints binding (in this case). That can occur from a misaligned rear end. road noise, squeeks, etc are more of what BMR is intending.
This truly is a breakthrough in the world of automotive diagnostics and troubleshooting.
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Originally Posted by SSactionLs1
vibrations from the rear are caused by U joints binding (in this case). That can occur from a misaligned rear end. road noise, squeeks, etc are more of what BMR is intending.
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Also, for the record, I read ahead of time about the Trak Pak causing more "road noise" etc. I only had vibrations no rattling or squeaking. My friend has it on his car and it makes little noise and mine is totally quiet even on gravel/bumpy roads!!! Props to BMR for an affordable and quality piece that eliminated all my wheel hop and hooks great on the street! Also, thanks for all the input from everyone!
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Lastly, does anyone know where to buy a good pinion angle guage, maybe even a digital one if not too expensive? My friend and I are thinking of getting a decent one that is more consistant and accurate.
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Originally Posted by Hardtop00SS
glad you worked everything out, is your car lowered any? Any clearance problems with the crossmember on the trak pak?
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Originally Posted by joblo1978
That's amazing how you can diagnose exactly what's wrong with his car without having driven it, seen it, and nothing more than him saying it's vibrating in the rear and he can feel it in the seat of his pants at 80+mph.
This truly is a breakthrough in the world of automotive diagnostics and troubleshooting.![Hail](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_hail.gif)
This truly is a breakthrough in the world of automotive diagnostics and troubleshooting.
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Originally Posted by PAGregSS
Holy ****, man. The guy described what is a classic case of a bad pinion angle and you jumped all over SSactionLs1 for answering his question. As it turns out, SSactionLs1's response was much more helpful than anything you had to offer.
My original SUGGESTION, (meaning not stating exactly) was that maybe it was installed incorrectly and some extra noise was to be expected.
Turns out that is what the problem was.
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Originally Posted by PAGregSS
Holy ****, man. The guy described what is a classic case of a bad pinion angle and you jumped all over SSactionLs1 for answering his question. As it turns out, SSactionLs1's response was much more helpful than anything you had to offer.
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Magnetic angle finders can be found at Home Depot,
I bought one from BMR for about the same price. I
believe there are digital ones too, though digital does
not -necessarily- mean "more accurate".
There's pinion angle, and there's driveline angle. You
want the front and rear U-joints to have roughly the
same local shaft-shaft angle. The rear pinion angle is
what people work on to get bite, but if you are making
extreme changes out back it's possible that you may
have to adjust the trans tail angle as well (shimming
the tail mount up?) to keep the joints from bind.
I bought one from BMR for about the same price. I
believe there are digital ones too, though digital does
not -necessarily- mean "more accurate".
There's pinion angle, and there's driveline angle. You
want the front and rear U-joints to have roughly the
same local shaft-shaft angle. The rear pinion angle is
what people work on to get bite, but if you are making
extreme changes out back it's possible that you may
have to adjust the trans tail angle as well (shimming
the tail mount up?) to keep the joints from bind.
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
Magnetic angle finders can be found at Home Depot,
I bought one from BMR for about the same price. I
believe there are digital ones too, though digital does
not -necessarily- mean "more accurate".
There's pinion angle, and there's driveline angle. You
want the front and rear U-joints to have roughly the
same local shaft-shaft angle. The rear pinion angle is
what people work on to get bite, but if you are making
extreme changes out back it's possible that you may
have to adjust the trans tail angle as well (shimming
the tail mount up?) to keep the joints from bind.
I bought one from BMR for about the same price. I
believe there are digital ones too, though digital does
not -necessarily- mean "more accurate".
There's pinion angle, and there's driveline angle. You
want the front and rear U-joints to have roughly the
same local shaft-shaft angle. The rear pinion angle is
what people work on to get bite, but if you are making
extreme changes out back it's possible that you may
have to adjust the trans tail angle as well (shimming
the tail mount up?) to keep the joints from bind.
Thanks for the info. I have the pinion angle guage that came with the BMR arm but it seems like you can measure an angle then measure a different one and go back and measure the first angle and get a different reading then you had before. That make sense??? Anyway, I was just thinking that someone had to make a better quality guage that was more consistant. Maybe I will try Home Depot or Sears. Thanks to all for the help and to others for the entertainment...
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